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(moved) remote audio controls for camera rig

by MarcusWolschon, published

(moved) remote audio controls for camera rig by MarcusWolschon Apr 16, 2011

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Summary

THIS DESIGN HAS BEEN MOVED TO YOUMAGINE:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/zoom-h4n-rc04-remote-in-ergonomic-hand-grip

Reasons:
http://marcuswolschon.blogspot.de/2014/01/leaving-thingiverse.html

Putting so much effort into the picture,
the sound is often overlooked while filming.
So if you have no dedicated sound guy the usual approach is to at least get a decent audio recorder and sync it with the images later.

But what do you do if you notice that the audio levels are spiking or
sound is too faint and you don't want to rely on an automatic compressor to more or less get it right?
You can't touch the recorder during the shots as that would be noticeable in the recording.

So this allows you to attach the RC04 remote-control for the famous Zoom H4n audio recorder to the handle of your camera rig and not only control the levels of all 4 channels (e.g. stereo background, interview partner and interviewer) but also start and stop the recording, play it back right after the shot to give your interview partner a thumbs up but also have 4 LEDs in view to inform you about levels on each channel being about to spike and feedback that recording has indeed started.

Update:
I added some fins to make this easier to print.
The difficulty level is still quite high.
Feel free to suggest a more elegant design.
(That does not rely on a specific kind of bicycle-handle.)

blog post:
http://marcuswolschon.blogspot.com/2011/04/audio-remote-for-shoulder-rig.html
http://marcuswolschon.blogspot.com/2011/04/en-some-more-cad.html

photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Marcus.Wolschon/20110325Bis201105ShulterRigBauen?feat=directlink

forum post:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?88,75536,page=2

IF YOU HAVE NO ACCESS TO A 3D-PRINTER AND CAN't FINE SOMEONE ELSE TO PRINT THESE FOR YOU, YOU CAN HAVE SHAPEWAYS PRINT THESE FOR YOU:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/marcuswolschon?section=Camera+and+Filming

Instructions

Insert a pause-gcode (M226) just before the last layers.
Then, when the printer pauses, insert your RC04 into the holder.
Resume the print while holding the RC04 in place.
After the print is done, very carefully remove the RC04.

This thing is very tall. Make sure your Z-axis runs smoothly on all of it's length. Not just the first 5-10 centimeters.
If you encounter skipping due to reaching seldom used parts of your Z-axis, you can later repair the object with a bit of hot glue (like I did).

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See also

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8908http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

for a spider mount for the H4n to any 15mm rod system.

Spider mount for H4n field recorder for 15mm rod systems

V1.1: I added some fins to the back to make the printing easier.

(More still while printing.

Stiffness of the final part is no problem

due to the handle and remote supporting it from both sides

and applied forces in use being low.)

No idea about the large bridge at the top without breaking this up into multiple parts.

Too fragile, has strength issues, needs a ground up redesign.

Finaly the troll is actually naming issues.

Well, it's supported by the grip (That's what the parametric slit in the back is for)

and the remote and holds up very fine, thank you.

I don't even need the wing-bolt and nut yet.

Feel free to post a better one. I'm looking forward to it
and will be sure to try it out.
Improvements and redesigns are always welcome.
I think we could move the remote maybe 8-12mm to the right to make it even more comfortable to use.
Not sure if I could still reach the record-button then.
That
will have to be tested. As long as rec-level, monitor-level and the channel-buttons are comfortable within range that would still be okay I guess.

Ah, yes. The "works for me" excuse. Try not making rudimentary mistakes.

Ah, yes.

The usual flaming without actually offering an improvement or

testing your very theoretical shortcoming.

Well, I told you that it's not too fragile, why this is not an issue

and that is works well in practice.

I see no need to make it stronger but if you are concerned,

the design files are down there and you are free to change the parameters

or design a better one from scratch.

You'll find all the measurements you need in the design.

So far, you never offered an improved version
or even a specific change that would make anything better.
Just nonconstructive bickering.

I think this pot has painted itself so you could call it black, you fell for it 100% You could try to clean up your own act. On thing to think about would be to keep the ratio (links to own things/blag/etc) / (Links to others' things/blog/etc) very low.

I'm not exactly sure what you are talking about and how it relates to the thread you posted it to

(about the mechanical strength required for this to do it's job while supported by the grip and the remote).

I'm not familiar with the figure of speech you used.

Ah, the 'I don't understand' defense, that is a good tactic to distract from the brought up issues... Good one, Marcus!

In this case, the pot is calling the kettle black. Since you claim lack of understanding: in this comparison, you are the pot, who is quite black itself, and the anonymous coward is the kettle, who you call black. For 'black' you can insert most of the above statements you made against AC above.

Also, you seem to recognize 'a troll' but you don't know you should never feed a troll? Or do you, but you cannot let it alone. Perhaps he is touching an a sensitive nerve of yours, by, you know, being right?

And about your rig: is it any good for POV? =-O

(Well, if I ask to actually name specific shortcomings,

I can't sit idle when they are finally named.)

As far as the rig goes:
Well, it's stable, compatible with commercial equipment,
even cheaper then the indian rigs and it works.
Great equipment for people with cheap, small cameras who could or would never affort even the indian rigs. Same as the Steadycam I did earlier.
(a 2-3000eur rig for a 35
0eur 4/3 EVIL camera using old but good,
manual lenses for 19-35eur? no way.)
Test shots worked out well so far.
I combined the parts I designed, tested and improved over and over again with an indian matte box (a part I had no intention of designing myself).

It's first large use is still a few w
eeks away.
The first smaller use in the field may come on easterhegg next weekend
but that's not guaranteed due to the usual camera policy on CCC events.
I still hope that the wireless follow focus, that is still a work in progress
here on thingiverse, will be finished soon and I can build one by t
heir design.
I do quite a lot of shots at the moment but all with the tripod and
some with my older Steadycam Mark I.

The new matte box interferes with the follow focus using my usual, short lenses.
It works fine without the matte box and with longer lenses.
I may design a 90° version in the weeks
after easter.

Maybe I'll also design an alternative counter-weight that can accommodate two
weights above each other. With the matte box and audio recorder the front
got much heavier and I need to counteract that.
Or one that carries larger batteries to power camera and audio recorder.

In two we
eks I'll get together with a good musician who agreed to
teach me the proper use of the compressor and limiter on the audio recorder.
Up to now I'm using the buttons on the remote to start/stop recording and
level my audio before each shot.

I'm not a professional camera-man or sound-guy.
I just lik
e to build equipment that I would never buy commercially
to make the best of the cheap but good equipment I have.

Just be more tolerant of other peoples incomplete posting and stop being so capricious with your comments and i'm sure everyone else will stop nit-picking your things. I'm guessing its because english isn't your primary language, but your comments most often come off as arrogant and abrasive to native english speakers.

I'm trying to.

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