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Speed Boat 2 RC

by wersy Apr 25, 2015
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hello, what batteries do I use? to the links to buy them? and remote control which one can I buy?

Terrific project - you really have placed a lot of time in to it. You will indicated that rollover can occur which can happen to any R/C boat by a host of factors. You could add small fixed rudders to the rear hull at 35 degrees to water to reduce rollover. I have been r/c boating for years and have this on most of my boats. I question your outrunner if you really run over 10 minutes both motor and speed control are going too have a short lifespan without cooling. Water jacket on inrunner is recommended along with similar on your speed control. It is easy to make small hole on bottom of hull to let passive water enter to your cooling jackets. Congratulations again!

Thank you very much for your suggestions.
You are right in all points. When I designed the boats, I had no experience at all with boat building.
Especially this boat can capsize if you start too fast. With my engine the starting torque is too high.
I can't tell if the engine is running hot because I've never driven it for more than 10 minutes.

Since I don't build boats anymore, I would be happy if someone would use your tips and upload them as a remix.

Can you link me where you bought your tube and rod

Hello i have a question if a 3mm rod can be used with 4/3.45 tube and grease

3.45 mm inner diameter is to big. There is too much play, so the 3 mm rod will wobble.

about how long did your prop stay on? I'm asking because mine doesn't like to stay on very long

no. (I've figured out the problem since the comment) what i meant was about how long did the prop shaft stay connected to the adapter. mine just seemed to pop off after 10 seconds of of driving.

You mean the propeller's coming partly out of the water?
I had no problem with that. Can you make a video of it?

You mean, how far does the propeller shaft project beyond the transom?
It is about 45mm.
You can make it shorter. Propeller and rudder axis should be on the same level.
If you tell me the distance of your propeller I could try to make a shorter rudder mount.

what slicing software did you use,I'm using Cura and there is no "spiral vase" pattern available

"spiral vase" is not an infill pattern, it is the outer conture. In Cura it is called "spiralize" (see attached file)
All parts wich are to print in sprial vase mode must be printed hollow - no infill.

The receiver seems to be discontinued, any others I could use?

You can take any receiver. Important is only, it must fit to your transmitter.

Hallo Michael,

Freu mich schon auf das Modell auf dem Wasser, aber leider hab ich aktuell noch ein kleines Problem. Konnte bisher den Rumpf und das vordere Deck gut drucken. Bei dem hinteren Teil des Decks klappt es leider so gar nicht. Bei den bisherigen Versuchen gab es nach ca. 10cm einen Layerversatz und kurz danach nur noch Perücken. In Meshmixer keine Probleme gefunden. Hast du zufällig eine Idee? Danke.

Hallo Johannes,
Ich habe absolut keine Idee was die Ursache sein könnte.
Am besten, du kommst zum RepRap Forum und zeigst auch gleich Fotos.

Problem konnte mit Z-Hop bei Layer-Change behoben werden. Lag wohl an zu schlampiger Kalibrierung. Heute ist Jungfernfahrt!

Und, wie war's, gibt's Fotos?

I'm using Autocad Fusion 360. What design program did you use. Would it be possible to get a copy of your design files. I'm designing one from scratch but some of your files might be a big help. Thanks

Sorry, but in general I don't share source files. It was not designed with Fusion.
Fusion is a great program. It has several tools on how to use mesh to create a solid.
Earlier or later you will need this anyway.
Have fun with Fusion as I recently do :-)

Tried printing the Hull-back 3 times now, each time prints perfectly till 100mm then for some reason on the motor mounts there is blob at the end and also at the end at the top of each side of the hull. The nozzle hits the blob and then the print is ruined. I'm printing PETG, really good quality until this bit. Maybe I'll try PLA

What width are you printing?
It looks rather thick, there is no room inbetween for the interface part. One part looks as if it is printed even with infill.
Are you printing spiral vase?
Which slicer you use?
In general, PLA is easier to print than PETG, though we printed the Speed Boat 3 in PETG as well.

I followed your instructions. Using Simplify3D 0.6 width, 0.3 layer height, 0% infill and in spiral vase mode. It looks ‘thicker/has infill’ because when it hits the blob on the motor mount the sides flex and it no longer prints on top it’s a bit to the sides. I don’t get great results with PLA I find PETG much simpler to print with, great first layer, good layer adhesion and zero stringing. This is the only print I’ve struggled with. I might try PLA and see how it goes. What speed do you print at and do you have the perimeter outline at a reduced speed? When you print this with PETG do you use a cooling fan and if so at what speed?

It is odd that it always happens at the same point. I don't use S3D.
Maybe it is a slice failure. Is there anything visible in the print preview?
Can you try another slicer?
Before printing the entire part I would cut the stl and try printing only this area.
I don't print with cooling. I print the outline perimeter about 40 mm/s.

The preview looks fine. I cut the STL down and printed past this point no problem so I don't think its a slicer error. I'm wondering as it gets taller it gets quite flimsy so maybe the movement of the part is throwing it out. I was printing quite fast about 65/mm so I've slowed it right down and switched off the cooling fan. If this doesn't work I'll try Slic3r. Thanks for your suggestions, I'll let you know if it works.

Ok, I worked it out, quite embarrassing really. I moved from Ramps to a Duet and somehow the Z axis was set 100mm not the 300mm it should be. I hadn't realised this as I've not done any prints beyond this height and I'm not sure if I ever moved the Z axis down on my CoreXY machine beyond that. So basically the Z axis just stopped. I now have 5 x 100mm failed prints :) oh well glad I got it figured out. 6th time lucky I hope now!

I rember, once I had the same issue at height 220mm. Changed the software and forgot set to 230mm.
Your print had exactly the same typical look, but I didn't thought about z-limit :-)

I'm glad its solved. Great model by the way. I really can't wait to get this fully printed. I fly quadcopters and I have lots of FPV gear, I want to make an FPV speed boat :)

It came out nicely in the end. Pic attached. Was a little fiddly getting the interface slid in between in and glued, I printed the interface at 99% scale and it fitted better for me. I just waiting for a few parts to get delivered then I add more pics to the made section. Great design!

It looks great in red and very good print quality.
I like it better than mine.

Thanks :) i adapted the camera mount to fit a micro all in one FPV camera and transmitter - See attached pic. This sends a really crisp picture to my FPV goggles. I can't wait to try it out although I'm still waiting for the shaft and propeller to arrive from China ordered 3 weeks ago.

Your boat looks great, I am absolutely thrilled! The red hull with the silver cover.
Please upload it as Make as soon as possible, I can't wait to see it entirely!
Be careful, don't take too big propeller. It then can capsize easily if you give too much throttle.
I am not quite sure if your cam wants to look under water ;-)

How did you attach the coupler for the motor and drive shaft?

The easiest way is to screw the printed coupling with M2 screws. But it holds not very long.
A better solution is to use rubber shock absorber like this:
Additional you need two 8 mm aluminium rods 15 mm long.
In this rods you drill a hole from the one side and cut a thread M4 from the other side. The hole must be for one the diameter of the motor shaft (3.75mm) and for the other the diameter of the propeller shaft (3.0mm).
You can easiely drill a centered hole if you clamp the drill in a vice and the aluminium rod in a column drill.
I uploaded photographs of the coupling now.

Wow! Thank you very much!

I forgot to mention that each rod also needs two cross bore M2 to clamp the shaft.

I'm working on printing one right now, looks great so far. All I need to print now are the decks, then imma run over to a hobby store and get the shaft and stuff.

I like your boats! Feel free to join my new group "Maritime" to get in contact with other model boat enthusiasts.

is the file for the prop. available I just need that to finish ?

Motor Boat RC - spiral vase printable
by wersy

I would like to start the project. But I need some tutorial or link to Sterntube and Driving shaft ??

Help please :)

What exactly do you want to know?
You need a stern tube:
outer/ inner diameter 4/3
a driving shaft:
3 mm rod 160 mm long with 11 mm M3 thread on one end.
That means you have to cut the thread by your self.
The printed stern tube is hollow, so you just have to drill out on both sides. Then put the metal stern tube in it and glue it.

Is it possible to make this self-righting? In case it were to get turned over by a wave, could it turn back over by itself?

For this you need on one side a water duct which has an opening on the stern.
You can see it here:

What about the servo ? Do you have a reference ?

You can take TGY-R5180MG

Thanks you ! I'm finishing mine

Great, this is the first Made!
Will you share pictures?

what is your propeller size?

Outer diameter is 34 mm

This is just a design request, but can you please make a large scale RC catamaran?

I know that you already made a catamaran, but it's too small. Scaling it up means that the electronics won't be inside.

This is just a request, but it would be amazing if you were to make one!!!

I am sorry, but I don't plan to design a catamaran.

i may be making a jet drive version of this boat. could you make a hull with a hole in the bottom for a duct?

If you make a hole in the hull you can't print in spiral vase mode. To get the hole waterproof you must print with infill, but then you will have no gap for the interface.
You can try to cut out the hole and fill the gap all round with epoxy glue.

Are there any other motors that will work other than the ones you listed in the instructions? Great design

In principle you can take every motor between 26 mm and 28 mm diameter, and the screw holes must be on the shaft side.
It should not have more than 1100kv, otherwise the motor may become hot because it is not cooled by water or airflow of a propeller.

The most comparable to my motor I could find on HobbyKing , is this one:
Maybe also the smaller one could do it, though not so fast:

Anyway, if you have a motor already, just give me the measurements and I will look if I can modify the motor mount.

Ok thank you so much I am looking forward to building mine.

You're welcome! Feel free to ask.
I would be glad if you do the first "Make" of this boat.

What is the hull_interface_solid and where does it go?

The hull_interface_solid is mentioned in "Instructions":
"The solid part of the hull interface is to print in spiral vase mode. You will get a closed ring profile. Afterwards cut off the deck opening."
"The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue."

Can I print to the whole boat in PLA or do I need to use another material for the boat? Also, what electronics did you use to make the boat? The link in the description is not working for me.

Yes, you can use PLA, no problem.
Sorry for the links, the motor isn't available anymore. I still use this one for all my Boats and almost all my airplanes. I have to see first what else would fit and will post it soon. Anyway, it must be a motor with a hole pattern of 16/19 mm and a shaft of 3,17 mm.

The shaft can also be 3.0 mm.
Important is, that the screw holes 16/19 mm M3 are on the shaft side.

Also, what slicer did you use to print it?

I am not quiet sure what slicer I used, most probably Slic3r. But you can also use Cura or any other.

Also, what infill did you use on the back plate of the boat? And is the back plate called the hull interface solid in the stl files?

The back plate has to be printed solid, as I wrote in "Instructions":
"The transom is 2.1 mm thick, that means, you need at least 7 solid layers each 0,3 mm high."
The hull_interface_solid is also mentioned:
"The solid part of the hull interface is to print in spiral vase mode. You will get a closed ring profile. Afterwards cut off the deck opening."
"The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue."


das ist doch an der jahunderthalle in Ffm-Höchst. haben die Euch nicht verjagt?


Leider ja. Jetzt müssen wir zum Waldsee Walldorf.
Das erfordert einiges an Disziplin, denn im nu ist das Boot außer Sicht...
Schwimmen musste ich da auch schon, ein Boot hatte sich zwei mal an Wasserpflanzen verfangen.
Gruss Michael

Thanks for this boat
Do you thing it could be easy to add a flood chamber?
Best regards

Unfortunately this is impossible because there is no place on deck to for the openings.

Thanks for your answer.
Can you share your original 3d file before cutting parts?

Please don't take it amiss but I generally don't share source files. I uploaded the stl-file of the complete hull.
I hope you can use it.

Guten Tag

Wie lang ist denn Ihr Boot?
Wie lange dauert es das Boot zu drucken?

Danke im Voraus für Ihre Antworten!

Liebe Grüße aus Österreich


Länge des Bootes:
Heck (hull back 149) + Mittelteil (hull middle 149) + Bug (hull front 116) = 414mm

Druckzeit (langsam 30m/s)
hull back 149 =4,75h + hull middle 149 =3,75h + hull front 116 =1,25h = 9,75h
Die Druckzeit richtet sich nach der Druckgeschwindigkeit, die der Slicer anzeigt.
Dazu kommen noch Teile (Deck, Verbindungslasche, Ruder- und Motorkonsole)

Gruesse aus dem Taunus

Guten Tag

kleine frage wie verbindet ihr die ganzen rumpfe?

freundliche grüsse aus der schweiz

In das Vorder- und Hinterteil des Rumpfes wird je zur Hälfte die Verbindungslasche hull_interface_solid eingeschoben und verleimt.
Die Verbindungslasche, die hohl mit einem Perimeter, ohne Boden und Decke gedruckt wird, muss anschliessend oben im Bereich des Deckausschnittes aufgeschnitten werden.
Die hohle Rumpfspitze wird stumpf auf das Mittelteil geleimt.
Gruß Michael, der alles alleine macht.

is there any way to slice the front and back deck down? they are larger then my Printrbot XL. taking them each down into two would help a bunch.

Did you noticed that I had added smaller hull parts further down at the end of the file list?
Middle and back part are 149mm.
Now I added smaller decks 116mm and 117mm.
Tell me if you printed them successfully. Then I will make other interface parts.

I will let you know sometime in the afternoon, but I'm thinking that should do the trick! Plus, I personally like doing sections rather then a full part, less likely chance of messing something up. Thanks Wersy!

What is the highest you can print?

Apparently an inch shy of 165mm.
My z axis gives out at that point, not sure why. Can the decks be broken down into more manageable pieces? I'm not afraid of having to use a little glue.

What is the length of the boat from bow to stern? Port to stbd? It might be possible for me to print the hull as one piece if the stern was printed first on the print bed and the boat printed vertically. I can print 215x215x254 XYZ.

The overall distance from bow to stern is 414 mm. The middle part plus bow is 254 mm. You could print this in one.
What do you mean by "Port to stbd"?

Port to stbd ist Port (links) zu Steuerbord (rechts) gesehen in Fahrtrichtung. Einfach gesagt... Wie Breit ist das Boot? :)

Danke Philip! Also von Backbord nach Steuerbord.
Port to stbd is 165 mm.

@ heroictale
If you have no metric tube but only one with 2/16" inside diameter, I can modify the hole if you tell me what outside diameter you need.

Sorry for the late reply, I've been extremely busy with school and haven't had time to work on the boat. It's okay though, what I have done is drilled out the space for a tube. Then I 3D printed a tube, and stern.Thank you though!

Also what did you use for a stem tube?

Sorry for the late reply Wersy, I've been busy planning a funeral. As for the hull i'm about to print it. Ill inform you on the outcome.

I managed to print the piece, but the hole for the propeller wasn't nearly large enough. I had to print it 60% of its original size, and i had some bad printing near the bottom.

Are you really shure?
The hole must have a inside diameter of 4 mm for the stern tube.

The complete piece wouldnt fit on the bed. Could you edit the file to have a bigger hole, or show me how to change it? Thank you

Now I understand what you mean.
There is no need for you to scale the model down.
Your print bed is 6x6" (152.4x152.4 mm) right? For comparing, my print bed ist 164x144 mm.
Did you turned the model 45° as I told you? Then you will have even a free space of 6 mm at the narrowest points. You must do this in your slicer before printing. Enter 45 in z-axis.
To make sure to get a proper print, you must prove all the layers in the gcode preview. If you see a gap between two layers, you must try other settings or try with another slicer.

The stern tube is brass 3mm inside, 4 mm outside diameter.

There are several reasons why it is not possible to just scale the model down:

  1. It will be difficult or even impossible to print in spiral vase mode if there is no gap any more between the inside and the outside perimeter.
  2. If there is no gap you can't put in the interface to align the hull parts.
  3. The motor mount, the servo mount and the stern tube including the propeller shaft will not fit.
  4. The grooves of the deck part will not fit to the hull.

Another thing, how do you print only one perimeter without having holes in your print?

Another thing, how do you print only one perimeter without having holes in your print?

Generally there should be no problem. I use PLA printing with 220°C and not so fast.

Very interested in building this. Do you have a materials list?

Could you give us a list of the motor , esc and etc... i am new to rc boat. thanks a lot!

And to @Napa1m
Just look to "Instructions", I will complete the material list step by step. You should know, retirees hardly have time ;-)

Thank you

Hi dear Michael, grate boat!
what polymer did you use?
thank you!

Hi Rob,
thank you, nice to hear from you again. And yes, I used PLA - as usual.

thank you! ;)

Beautiful design.

I don't fully understand your build instructions. How are the hull pieces assembled with the 'interface' pieces? Can you provide additional photos or diagrams?

Do you use glue? If so, what kind?


I am sorry, but I didn't took any photographs of the assembly.
When you print the "interface_hull" hollow with one perimeter you will get a flat ring (at best in spiral vase mode) of 0.5 mm thickness. I designed it closed for better continuing printing. Therefore you must cut out the unnecessary area of the deck. It will look like the "motorboat_interface" from
The two big hull parts will have an open gap at their connection. So you put the "interface" fifty fifty into each hull gap.
The hull_back must have at least 7 solid layers on bottom (7x0.3 = 2.1 mm) for the stern.
The hull middle must be printed upside down, with the connection edge on bottom with 2 or 3 solid layers on bottom and hollow for the rest. So you will get a open gap for the interface.
The same way you print the hull_front. The connection between the front and the middle part have no gap for an interface. They are to glue directly flat to each other.
I printed with PLA and glued with 2 component epoxy.
Feel free to ask more if I couldn't explain good enough.

Motor Boat RC - spiral vase printable
by wersy

Thanks for clarifying; It's a brilliant construction technique! I think we'd all benefit from a sequence of photos clarifying the process. Please consider doing so for your next boat -- I'll be watching with interest!


hope this gets featured. Amazing work!

Thank you :-)