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LoboCNC

Push Drill with Adjustable Chuck

by LoboCNC Apr 25, 2015
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just took it out of my formlabs printer and it all fit together great just gotta let it sit in the uv chamber a bit longer to get it hardened fully. thanks for it!

Squeezed the fingers and snapped one off with 3 perimeters @ 30% infill. Reprinting at 100%.

Great design! It took a bit of trial-and-error but I got a good print from my M3D Pro for this. The main body I printed at 0.98x, the chuck at x1, the end-pin at x1 (and sanded it a lot...) and the slider at 1.04x on the X/Y axes and x0.98 on the Z to match the body (oddly the chuck works great, despite the Z axis mismatch). With a bit of lubrication, it's pretty easy to use. I tried 1.02x first for the slider and it was just a bit too tight, 1.04 seems about right.

The 0.98 was after I'd printed everything at 1x and I just happened to have that filament loaded so I thought I'd take my chances (which didn't really work out), so I guess x1 for everything with x1.05 on X/Y for the slider and end-nub, and x1.02 on X/Y for the chuck would probably have worked just as well.

For whatever reason, if you load the main body in the M3D software, it scales it to 1.34, so be careful of that - I have a 1.34 scale body that I might try to print the other parts for at some point, though I expect at that size it might get a bit unwieldy :)

I can't get the end circle piece to "snap" in. Any suggestions?

I am having the same issue with the end piece not seating properly into the drill body.

If the end of the blind hole in the drill body does not print cleanly then the end nub might not press all the way in. You can either trim the end of the nub or take a small drill and clean out the bottom of the hole.

Thanks, I will try that first. If that doesn't work, I will try dipping the connector in hot water to soften the pla and push it in that way

thats amazing, I printed one and its been on regular usage about a week now, I drilled lots of holes with it tho I had to print the endcap 3 times becouse it melted XD even tho I have a drill I use this just 4 fun

I just watched a video where someone accidentally set fire to something with this. I would love to see a minor redesign that could be used as a pocket bow drill. That seams like the perfect 3d printed fire starting solution, since the Fire Piston puts a lot of stress on parts.

Just printed at 75% works great thanks.
I put a drop of water in the end and then heated the "end pin" with a soldering iron, pressed the pin in to the bottom and now it stays in and is molded to the hole, and still works perfectly.

I saw some guy use the fast moving drill to start a fire with power from his hands! I'm getting a 3d printer soon, this is the first thing I'll make.

Love the Model! can't wait to get one made,

Just a quick point, the more accurate name is Archimedes Drill.... after the archemedes screw feature that makes the whole thing work...

Brace not drill. I don't know what the difference is but that's what was drilled in my head ;)

I guess the small ones are called Archimedes drills. Strange, though, because it's not really an Archimedes screw in particular, its just a screw.

I really like this and appreciate you making and posting it. While it worked well for tiny bits, with a 1/8 bit it struggled (it just could not keep it from spinning). I wonder though if it was modified to use the 1/4 hex drill bits which would also allow it to be a push screw driver. If I get a chance (largely b/c I have little experience with 3d designing) I may try to modify it (will definitely credit you for it). I also found that heating the end piece that goes in the bottom until I could use a cold tool to mushroom the end a bit made it "pop" in and not come out. I am also hoping to take it a bit further and encase the back of the drill into a hollow handle so we can add a spring and have it push back out on it's own.

I found the external threads on the drill body turned out very nicely but I can't make durable threads on the chuck, no matter which orientation I print in. Any advice?

I had this issue too. I found that using a heat gun to soften the threads (do not get them too hot or they will get sticky) and then screwing in and out a few times on the match threads made their size perfectly and run even smoother. I also did this for the drill handle and handle and that works fantasticly now.

Internal overhangs, like with the threads on the chuck, can be particularly challenging to print. Try slowing down the print speed as this can often help.

how should i print the body?
Do i need support or something ?

The body prints upright as oriented in the STL file - no supports are needed. To improve bed adhesion, you might want to add a raft or brim, but I printed the body OK without either.

super! Thanks!

is there a way to make this so it only spins one way -- so that raising the ring doesn't make the bit spin backwards?

yes just add a ratchet mechanism. Maybe to the part that you hold. It would be a little bulky but would work. I'd love to see someone mash these 2 designs together.
here is a 3d printed example of the concept
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:455507

Pocket Ratchet Wrench
by Cleven

Not that I can think of -- at least not easily.

Thanks for this! Printing it now. Was looking for something smaller than my 15volt drill to drill fine holes in my pieces for mounting magnets

Thank you! I'm magnetizing 40k minis and my pin vise is too small. This just saved me a lot of trouble.

Thank you! I'm magnetizing 40k minis and my pin vise is too small. This just saved me a lot of trouble.

Nice work!, but the end nub its a little bit long, if you make it 1 mm shorter works perfectly.

Wonderful! Works perfect! With very little clean up to make it work.
But i had to cut off a little bit of the pin on the end nub, the hole in the main body wasn't deep enough.

I have problems fitting the end nut in.......

they just won't go in and leaves around 1mm outside.

Oops! I had been making tiny changes to the fit of the end nub and now realize that I had originally posted the wrong version. I've updated the file: end_nub.STL which should fit better.

everything print well but the bottom part I couldn't get it fix in to the bottom part. it is loose comparing to the bottom hole on the thread part

If some of the parts are too tight or too loose (relative to the drill body), you can try printing them 1% or 2% bigger or smaller as needed. It is best if you can adjust just the X/Y scaling but leave the Z-scaling the same.

You are always making thing's better :P very nice