Replicator 2X Extruder Upgrade

by whpthomas, published

Replicator 2X Extruder Upgrade by whpthomas Apr 25, 2013
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This is essentially the same design as my popular Replicator 2 Mk8 extruder upgrade http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42250 its just been adjusted to fit the geometry of the Replicator 2X - so the instructions are basically the same. You will just need to use one of the long countersunk 3M screws from the 2X extruder to mount the arm, you also re-use the bearings, all you need is a countersunk M3 x 10mm and a countersunk M4 x 15 for each extruder.

UPDATE V2 (April 28th 2013)

I have added a filament feed tube connector to the top of the arm, and a few other requested refinements.


Print, install and enjoy!

I have uploaded Lefthand (L) and Righthand versions.

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I haven't printed this yet, but am I understanding correctly that unlike the upgrade for the plain 2, this upgrade doesn't need any additional spring or bearing (that there are suitable components inside the 2X stock extruder)?

Just putting together a Fastenal order and want to make sure I've got all the pieces I need.

OK, I can update this with my experience now. You do also need to get the springs. There is a bearing in the original extruder that apparently works, though I'm having trouble getting my extruder to work now without pushing filament down into it. I'll post a "make" of this thing shortly with photos and details.

Has anyone tried using a shoulder bolt or a bushing at the pivot so you can tighten down the screw without clamping down on the pivot arm and causing it to rub and eat up some of the spring force through friction against the main body?

Great addition. I've been using it for some time now.

This isn't a design flaw by any means, but I did resolve one issue (Air Printing) and I wanted to share.

After extended use I found the spring tension wasn't strong enough OR there was more friction on the pivoted joint which ultimately led to filament not being forced through as consistently. I noticed that if i pushed the tab down there was the slightest amount of stick/friction on it. Then after that while printing I lightly held up the tab to force pressure on the filament and BAM a smooth flow returned.

Opening it up stretched the spring slightly by pulling it apart and then didn't screw the pieces to the stepper motor as tightly.

Initially i thought it was a clogged nozzle, which I replaced along with the heater block thermal tube. Turns out it was the spring.
Hope this helps someone else.

I printed the Rep 2x upgrade kit and the print came out slightly warped. See https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7rtoh7mfzt4mh42/VTQmNdR6nGhttps://www.dropbox.com/sh/7rt...

I also realised that as the extruder was laying down plastic, the previous layer was still soft. Will slowing down my extruding speed resolve this?


Are you printing with ABS or PLA? It looks like you are outputting too much plastic. You need to measure your filament and enter its diameter into your slicer.

I went into the Makerware gcode and changed the feeddiameter but it seems like the issue is still there. I am printing it now and I've noticed that the warp seems to happen in the same area. I've also lowered my extrusion speed. What else might be the problem?

Printing in ABS plastic.

Dear Dr. Thomas,

If I print this upgrades in ABS, will I need to scale it up, like 101% to compensate for shrinkage?

Thank you.


When printing the right had base at 0.3mm with 3 shells and 8% infill the large hole which the drive gear sits in is printed with just a single layer shell with a gap around it for quite a few layers.
Picture attached here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2693644/IMG_20130730_184606.jpghttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.... .
Is this a problem with my slicer, the model or is it meant to be like that and I just need to print more carefully?
I have not yet tried printing the left base to see if the same problem is present.

Also, what's with the mouse-ears on the mesh?

Try slowing down the print speed, it looks like the edges are getting pulled our of shape. I normally print 0.1mm with 1-2 extra shells at 100%. The mouse ears are to prevent the edges lifting when printing with 100% infill.

for some reason the left parts are corrupted and will not print, but the standard ones are still just fine.

Thanks for this..
can i use the ABS to print it..???


Does this use the same springs specified for the Replicator 2 version? And are there any other parts required, other than the M3x10MM and M4x15mm listed in the description?

Parts you will need for this project other then what is in the extruder already:

countersunk M3 x 10mm
countersunk M4 x 15mm
Everbilt Compression spring set box code 685 436 (located in the top right corner)

I am planning on making a video tutorial on how to do this as it took a bit for me to figure out what I was doing and wished I had a video to go off of.

Is a 16mm countersunk M4 acceptable? That's the closest I can easily find. Is there enough clearance or would I have to grind it down to fit?

you would have to grind it down most RC hobby stores should either have or be able to order the right one.

okay, cool. Thanks so much!

Also if you need the screws mentioned most RC hobby stores have the countersunk screws! picked mine up just now from one

If you need the hardware-From
McMaster Carr

91294A126 Metric
Flat Head Socket Cap Screw, M3 Size, 6MM Length, . Packs of 100 $4.00

90278A317 Metric
18-8 Stainless Steel Shoulder Scrw, Hex, 4MM Shoulder Diameter, 10MM Shoulder
L, M3 $2.80

7804K1 Miniature
High-Precision Stainless Steel Ball Bearing, , for 4 mm Shaft Diameter, 10 mm
OD $6.18

From Century Spring Corp

A13-11 comp
O=0.360 l 0.69 w=0.43
(need to buy $40 worth )

I printed one for my left extruder and it appears to be working well

I too am also having problems with the flipped parts

Will this work on the rep1's or are the extruders that different

The flipped parts don't work for me, can you re-upload them? Or upload a different file type of the origin file so I can edit it in solidworks? thanks

I believe that I have figured out the problem. If I am correct, the method used to originally flip the stl files was using Meshlab. After the object was flipped, its face orientation was not inverted. Probably just an oversight and can easily be corrected by following steps 1 and then 5-8 on this page: http://markslaboratory.com/2013/04/mirroring-an-stl-for-makerware/http://markslaboratory.com/201...

Argh!!! how do you flipp it for the right side? scale -1 in which programm, where? also have via cad 2d3d, how to i flipp it there?

You do it with scale in ReplicatorG - but just incase you don't have it installed - I have uploaded Left extruder mirrored versions.

To print in Makerware, you still need to invert the Face Orientations. If you have MeshLab installed, this can be done by

Select Filter -> Normals, Curvatures and Orientation -> Invert Faces Orientation

When your done, export the Mesh and you're good to go.

I loaded them in LigthWave 3D version 11.5.1 and mirrored them then re-exported the stl file. so to repair them the L sided parts..
Yes I need the upgrade, my 2x at 200 hrs started doing the same thing as the others.... dangit..

thank you for the Thing File

Hi there Australia!

I have the possibility to get some parts (limited number 6!) machined in Aluminium!

This Joer I wanted to use to get my self an 2x extruder modd! since I dont have mine 2x yet here is my Question!

which parts should I use ?

These here or your aluminium upgrade base Plate?

greetings from Germany!

PS also plan to order one from Kobus in addition!


I just spent all evening modding your Rep2 version for the 2X! If only I had known. I will still post the remix since I did a few other tweaks. Thanks for the nice work.