Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Supernova Lamp [movable] Ikea PS 2014

by DEL_1979 May 5, 2015
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awesome does the parts fit on the original lamp i need a spare part

gr bas

If you need part from external layer and not from inside. I created it and it fits ok for me.
Which do you nées ?

only one of the arms where the shields will attaced

Hey, could you release the cad file for this? Its a really cool model but I think I could make it better to 3D print. Thanks

Dude this model is insane!! It's really awesome!!!
Thank you so much for sharing

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thanks you for the design
started a few test peace in PLA but seem,go rigid to snap together

guessing you need ABS or PETg for this

Material doesn't matter when the model has been done with zero clearance between parts. Pretty typical thing to see from amateurs producing "assemblies".

The tolerances are just right becouse in any case, you have to re-drill all printed parts or, if necessary, edit them with a nail file for such a machanical Model.
Not all print results are the same (especially if you use a printer for 200 € , Maybe you should gear up?)
For this model, it does not hurt to have a few modeling skills - otherwise better construct and print pencil cases. (nice ! one like !)

Most people like the design.
You complain and insult the desiner who constructs you a complicated model for free. Nice character!

PLEASE dont download my models i have made !!! they are apparently too complicated for you !!!

No matter if you have a million dollar printer when two mating parts that should rotate have the exact same diameter. It is a press fit even in metal working and just doesn't work when the parts should move in relation to each other. Proper design understanding of assemblies prevents stuff like this and makes for parts that do not need filing and still work.

Maybe I'm harsh, but I design and manufacture mechanical assemblies for a living and this sort of thing can be avoided by simple design rules.

Jaakko, rather than complain, perhaps you could assist by contributing a better assembly?

as I said: the holes should be drilled.
a printed 3mm hole will never be 3mm at least in the first layer.
So you drill the hole witch 3,2mm and there is the tollerance.

Constructive criticism is a matter, insult someone who puts something free on the internet another.

again: if this is too much work for you, please do not download anything from me.

iam out !

Del_1979, To be called an amateur is no insult. Most of us are hobbyists, doing this for fun and learning.

Yes, they have to be drilled as the model doesn't have proper dimensions. If it would have been modeled as 3,2 mm hole, it would work straight away. Even if the printer doesn't do exactly 3 mm hole, the other (3,2 mm) hole will still be larger and works together with the other hole/object. It is about relative measurements that make parts work together as intended.

Why create extra work for yourself or others, when proper design rules will make all that unnecessary work go away. Overcontrained models require a lot of handwork otherwise, especially in a project like this that has 60+ parts that should fit together.

Yes, constructive criticism is good, except you did the very same insults in your first reply, totally uncalled for. My first message didn't contain any insults, just stated the facts about the model which someone else enquired about. I called it an "assembly", as in parts that should fit together but don't.

Here is a list of things to look at in any project:

  1. Clearances between moving components, 0,2 or 0,3 mm works great on any printer or printed part.

  2. Non-overconstraint model, for example if one cylinder defines a rotation axis, then the adjacent walls should not constrain the perpendicularity of the rotating part (arm and plate as an example here). Or vice versa, as the other part already defines a plane and two planes fighting each other results in parts that stick o each other due to even slightest variation or they assemble poorly (with force only).

  3. Fillets where strength is required or on outside of parts if geometry allows. If this is a corner, make sure the fillet is larger than the mating parts corner radius or make a cutout in the corner of the mating part so that the parts do not interfere. Fillets on the part also make it easier to get it off from the print bed.

I have re-designed this to actually work as all the tolerances needed to print it are way off . I have resized it to 30cm to make it easier to get the electronics in to make it motorised. I also cut a few parts in half to make it still printable on a 20cmx20cm print bed . I will upload the new repaired files once I have finished printing it and making sure all tolerances are now correct.

Can you upload your files, please?

jasonlove199450, Please, share your files! Meantime, I am printing this one. Man, NOTHING fits! Have to file/sand/drill every single part. Nice model, but needs to be fixed.

Hey Jason, you ever finished your redesign? Just upgraded to a Tornado and I'm eager to give it a try :)

I also look forward to the redesign. I'm hoping it will come with instructions for what electronics are needed (like light bulb / LED) and how to install them. Thank you for this great project

Thx ! I have added a hexagon lamp socket for LED strips.

Any news on that update?

Can't wait. Looking forward to printing this

I'm really struggling to find a bulb and a bulb support to fit in (to hjave enough light to light the room). Any recommandations ?

Plus, the arms have a hard time staying connected to the plates, even with a ton of sanding to make them fit. I feel like I just wasted a ton of filament for nothing :(

EDIT: The fit of the pieces is TERRIBLE. If you want to print it, print the rings first, to test the fit of the arms. Print it with the FINEST resolution you can. WARNING : most E27 light bulbs won't fit inside alone, it gets worse with the electic gear with it.

I just threw everything away in the garbage, I wasted a ton of filament and time into this. This is my worst project so far ...

Wow, Eodalf, that's too bad! I wish you had mentioned your printer, bed size, filament, etc.

I'm sorry to hear that. that was not the idea. Strange that the parts seem to fit in with other users.
if you are still looking for a lamp I have added a hexagon lamp socket for LED strips.

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You have no idea how happy this makes me. Thanks for this!

Hello thanks for you design.

Ikea have a 52Cm diameter of the ps2014 :


so, can you confirm that if i wan't this diameter i need to scale up at 260% ?


Hi DEL_1979, have you seen this thread? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1982967/#comments
would you be interested in collaborate joining both designs? I've tried to upscale your model to 175% creating an IKEA sized lamp, but failed to stick other layer, always seems little different.

PS2014 Deathstar Cover

No, I did not know yet...
Nice - I like !

collaborating sounds nice, but I currently have nearly no time. (maybe in a few weeks!?)
How exactly do you imagine this ?
Feel free to write me a PM.

I have printed this out and found an issue. The smaller plates (top and bottom) stand proud of the sphere by 5 to 10mm when the sphere is collapsed. Shaving 5mm off the length of the support struts throws the geometry out so that the plates then overlap. I think that this needs a slight redesign.

I also edited the top ring to accept a standard bayonet bulb holder but have not yet found a bulb small enough to fit. May need to use a small bayonet or screw fitting.

UPDATE: I redesigned the top and bottom plates, making the socket flush with the inside of the plate (this means the plates are now in line with the middle plates when the shade is collapsed into a spherical shape. However this also throws the geometry out slightly and the plates overlap. This may actually be a fault with the Ring designs though. I'll keep chasing!

Thanx 4 your posting !
I wrote you a PM.

I have this all printed off and slowly assembling. What kind of electrical guts are you putting into this? Screw in bulb. Soldered LED's of some kind? I don't have the original IKEA lamp so I am unfamiliar if you can just put any light socket into this or not? Electrical stuff is not my strong suite. Will standard replacement lamp parts work for this? if not what style?

There is enough space for a standard lamp mount.
I would use LED lamps because of the heat.

I would print a rectangle or hexagon part (4 or 6 sides with 1cm width) and sticking 12V Led strips on the area. (with Power supply 12v)

I plan to use an LED light bulb by phillips. Because its crazy dimmable. I was just curious about if I could use parts from an older lamp or if there was something specifically intended for this model.

Thank you!

has anyone made it an lamp yet because it is based on it and looks nice I would use led maybe a multi color with remote anyway anyone done it yet

klick here on the "made" button...

(4 users made it)

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has anyone made it an lamp yet because it is based on it and looks nice I would use led maybe a multi color with remote anyway anyone done it yet

What hardware do you use for this?

what do u mean ? hardware for printing ?

As in, the screws.

U need M4x16 screws

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if i scaled it, would the plates fit the ikea lamp?

i actually bought one, and have been toying with the idea of designing+printing textured plates.

wondering if i can use this as a starting point...

Teoretically yes, but I dont know for sure...

Nice! Could you please post STP file? so we can customize and make it better fit for different uses. To me I would like to make the whole size bigger plus reduce the thickness of plate.

Could you tell me how to install the rope?

You can see it in one of the pictures...
The red and the blue lines are the ropes!

What about make a ½ version so it can be mounted on a wall ??

... nice idea !!!

Could you split the V-plate into 2 sections for those of us with smaller build volumes?

Yes! A two-section v-plate would be a great help.

Could you list a zip with source files, so that I can scale up?

why do you need the source files ?
you can scale up the parts at your printing host software, or use for example "netfabb" to scale them up...

I dont think he understands enough about it to do anything beyond steal the design.

I was going to scale up in SE, but you're right I can just scale the model before slicing. And scaling all features will be fine because i'm not working with any non-printed hardware.

I'm printing it but It appears to be much smaller than the original model from Ikea.

Yes, its smaller...
Its external diameter is 200mm.

what program did you use to make this?

for this project i used "solid edge"

Downloaded the files tonight and I plan on printing it this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for designing it. And as for why not just buy it, here in the US the cost for the lamp was around $70 USD. I just checked the US Ikea site the US PN# is different than the rest of the world for some reason. In the US it's PN#: 602.511.23 but abroad/rest of the world is PN#? 402.511.19 and it's called "IKEA PS 2014" For those that are dying to know.

It has a different article number because north america uses E26 base bulbs and everywhere else uses E27. I used to work at IKEA and there's a bunch of product areas like that, where the same item will have different article numbers depending on local standards (faucets are another big one)

nice ! let me know !
in austria it costs about 50€.

But this is ikea lamp!!!!! better buy it more more less time :-)

Great design! Only question I have is how to attach the cords to open and close this lamp?

I added a picture how2attach the cords...

Great, when i saw this lamp in ikea i said to myself hey i could print this :) thanks for the design have you printed it?

:) same idea !
so far I have not had time to print this huge project ! maybe in winter :)

Well, once you print it for yourself you will see what some of us have commented about, and find many ways to improve the fit of the parts.

seems like the square dosnt touch the plates ?

which square do you mean ?

the squate tube, where Arm goes into PlateA and PlateB
seems like there isn't any connection between this square tube and the plate/shell part

oh no ! you are right ! Thanx 4 your help !
I removed the plate files and added the new parts !