Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

by jasonatepaint May 17, 2015
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I have big problem with proper motor steps - how could i set proper DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT ??

This is set in the configuration.h file of the Marlin firmware. The STEPS will depend on if you're using 0.9° or 1.8°motors.

By default the UM2 is setup for 1.8 on the x y z axis... and .9 for extruder.

If you're trying to figure out what the correct numbers to enter are, you can use this nifty calculater to confirm: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator/#stepspermmbelt

I have built it. Works fine except one thing - my 8mm rods have axial movement in the bearings. Anyone know how to fix that? Planning on adding ID 8mm spacers to align the belts with opposite rods, and prevent this axial movement

Sounds like the quality of the rods (or bearings) are the issue. The tolerances between ID of bearing and OD of rod should not allow this slack.

I've found the issue - due to vibrations, timing pulleys loosened up the screws and it start to move. I'll redo everything - this time with thread locker. We will see if this will help.

Thank you for the detailed clone build instructions! I appreciate the help!

my Heater Cartridge broke and the link in the bom list is not worrking anymore . can you tell me whate kind i need

3D Printer Ultimaker 2 + UM2 + Hotend Warmte Cartridge 3D Printer DIY Deel 24 v

24v (25w)

Are you using the standard UM2 hotend/heatblock?

If so, you can use this: https://fbrc8.com/products/heater-cartridge-24v-25w

If you are using an E3D, 24v 30-40w are all fine.... Just make sure it's 6mm in diameter to fit the standard . https://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-heater-cartridge?variant=1111380432

For the dual 30x30 fans, I know they are driven by 24V and wired in series since they are 12V fans.
However, is there any reason not to just run 24V fans in parallel?
It seems this would lessen the risk of blowing the PWM circuit and help compensate for fans that may be mismatched.

cheers for the files, been using a layout like this for quite a while now, however i noticed the assembly for the linear rails on the heat bed and Z axis motor plate have started to buckle under the long term use, i see there are some linear rail mounts that can be bought in metal and same goes for the Z axis motor, has anyone used an off the shelf metal part for this? i need to find some!

Ever thought about UM3 clone? Or is it the same as UM2?

what print settings did you use on the parts?

I wonder which parts needs to be changed in order to support a heatbed of 220x275 mm? Of course some of the 2020 extrusions, but the main question is the size of some of the closed loop gt2 belts... Is there some sort of formula that can be used in order to calculate the length of the closed belt and the length of the re-sized 2020 extrusion ?

Hello my Friend !
I have your Ultimaker 2 Clon clouned. I am happy and Thank you for all the Deteils.
This heare is the best Maserplan for Ultimaker.
Hear i have the final Video:

Dis someone try the tmc2130 stepper driver?

The accuracy of printer is the same with stepper motor 0.9° or 1.8°?

1.8 for x y z axis. UM2 uses .9 for extruder

this is absolutely awesome..

Im going to upgrade my my Printer with some parts and as i was looking at banggood i found that you now can get igus like Polymer Linear Bearing at Banggood:


Is it possible to get your Fac Duct?
Is that for 30mm oder 40mm fan?

Dumb question can you use the ultimaker firmware on a MKS board?

I'm in the process of assembling mine. I purchased F688ZZ bearings from robotdigg and 8 mm shafts from Misumi. The shafts are 7.998 mm in diameter and the F688ZZ bearings are less than 7.98 mm in diameter. Those seem to be too tight of a press fit for the application.
What have other people's experiences been?

Did you ever find the correct bearings and where?


Comments deleted.

any cad files for the hotbed base? i was going to cut out one.

Ultimaker 2 clone base plate - MK2b ready
by S3bape
Custom 12V Heater for UM2 Clone
by S3bape

thank you..

Whats the long term printing been like?
Want to build a 150mm squared printer with the smallest footprint possible, came up with a coreXY option, however has a foot print of 290*310 (XY)
What is the advantage of this ultimaker gantry? Thing i think of is the length of belts and simplicity that One motor drives X - One Drives Y independently over Corexy using 2 motors together

Exact same dimensions as UM2. My advice... spend the $$ on high-end rods. Every single person who started with cheap rods had lots of quality issues. Misumi is a good source or any reputable linear rod manufacturer.

I agree totally on the rods, I just upgraded to Misumi rods and bearings, which solved a lot of rattles. (and TMC2100 drivers so the printer is now very, very silent...)

Hii there, nice project.

I've been pondering some sort of Core XY or cuboidal build and I've found a few reasonably priced UM2 clone parts. I've just realised how elegant it is, with the linear rails also acting as rollers.

How tolerant of upsizing would this design be? The Z axis rails are already chunky at 12mm, important as the principal weight gain being the build plate.

P.S. An AliExpress seller is flogging your design, they've even lifted your photos. New Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printerDIY kit,2.85mm filament 2020 extrusion, 3d printed parts
http://s.aliexpress.com/MnI7NniY?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard
(from AliExpress Android)

I think if you kept your z-axis extension reasonable (e.g. another 100mm or so), I don't think you'd have any problems. It really comes down to finding a z-axis motor w/a lead screw that's long enough, in addition to longer 12mm rods. But do-able.

And yeah, I know about that Aliexpress joker, but thanks for the heads up. I've contacted him multiple times (and reported it) but it didn't seem to sway anyone. I don't mind them selling kits or assembled printers.... just that they use my actual photos and don't attribute me. If I were selling the printer, I'd actually get more aggressive to get it removed (only to have another pop up).

What are the benefits of this design over the corexy design of the hypercube by tech2c?
I'm undecided about which one to build... I always loved the ultimaker design, but looking to the finished prints of the hypercube I don't know if this is better.

I build both machines and love the ultimaker a little bit more. Print quality is the same but ultimaker is more consistent.

Is it worth wild to buy the Misumi bearings,if so can i have the link

It's always worth it in a machine that relies on smooth movement to get the best bearings (and rods) that you can afford. Lower quality bearings and rods just make your whole experience not fun.

where can i find the links for the Misumi rods ?

Go to Misumi and search for PSFJ6, PSFJ8, and PSFJ12. These are the part numbers for the three different diameter trades. The last number of the part number is the diameter of the rod.
These are the measurements for what you need to order.
X-linear shaft diameter:8mm length:337mm --- 2pcs
Y-linear shaft diameter:8mm length:348mm --- 2pcs
Z-linear shaft diameter:12mm length:339mm --- 2pcs
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:320mm --- 1pc
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:300mm --- 1pc
I built my printer two years ago with cheap aliexpress rods. A few months ago I ordered the Misumi rods for $70 when I rebuilt my printer. Totally worth it.

what Material did you pick for the rods? and what about the bearings?

Just got my extended version (300 mm z axis) running the other day with a Geeetech GT2560, nice board and running 24V with ease which is a breeze after my 12/24V Ramps setup on my I3XXL. Stragely, did some redesign on the shaft holders (center distance needed some correction to get 18mm although perfectlly calibrated print with bearings being a perfect tight fit) and made xy blocks with a twist but now all works well. Next... Misumi rods and bearings to get it 'perfect' . Thanks for the nice design !!!

Alright, troubleshooting question. I keep destroying the bearing mounted in the X-axis Back_left part. The bearing will go all squeaky, and then pretty soon afterwards the inner race will get pretty loose. Any idea what's going on there? It only started after I re-printed all my gantry parts (ran the machine for a year and a half, and some of the PLA parts started cracking.) I'm reprinting that specific piece now to see if that solves the issue, but thought I'd check in and see if you had any knowledge on the subject.


It sounds like there is some mis-alignment in the gantry. Here are my thoughts... without having my hands on the machine:

  • The gantry bearing holes are very tight for those flanged bearings, but they must sit flush with the printed edge. If they stick out at all, you're going to throw off the alignment of the rods.

  • Verify the spacers. There should be zero space between the outers flanged bearings and the spacer. Also there should be no space between the spacers and the pulleys. Loosen the pulley set screws and push the pulley and spacer against the flanged bearing.

  • Verify axis alignment for each direction. Move the print head to it's home location. Use calipers and measure the distance between the sliderblock and the pulley. Do the same thing on the opposite side. They should be the same. If they are not, loosen set screws on both sides and adjust the blocks so that they match the same distance from their respective pulleys. Then re-tighten.

  • Verify belt tension. Easiest way to re-distribute the slack/tightness in the belt is to loosen both pulleys on the belt and manually move the to adjust tension. Then re-tighten.

I hope that helps.

Can this be used with other genuine ultimaker upgrades on thingiverse? i'd like to use a 1.75mm e3D v6.

Yes. Everything is completely compatiable with a genuine UM2.

I'm a bit biased, but here's a pretty sweet direct-drive extruder that uses an E3D v6 hot end: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1102900

Ultimaker 2 PG35L Direct Drive Extruder for 1.75mm E3D v6 Hotend

Awesome. I cant seem to find the ultimaker heated bed kit anywhere.

Is this what I need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/182538095270?chn=ps&dispItem=1

I will be using a RAMBO board with a supported LCD instead of ultimaker board and controller.

I dont have access to a laser cutter, im not sure how id get the wooden bendy piece on the bed..

Totally Amazing design, i ordered my parts today and got almost 11% discount on everything on Banggood:

I really like this design and ordered my parts today.
Its great you will get up to 11% on the Banggood Sale here:


Thank you so much!

Comments deleted.

Hi, thanks for this awesome project
I have two questions if it is not a problem

1)Are the print sizes identical to um2? - Because i already have a UM2 and i would like to make it DIY with your project but 10-15cm higher

2)If it is a tribute / clone I have the option to use bearings and other components that I have spare of my ultimaker2? Or are there any variations that prevent it?

Thanks a lot.

1) Yes, same exact print dimensions.

2) The bearings and other components are the same size/fit for the clone as the original UM2. So you should be able to re-use most parts.

I have a couple of questions, first do I need the Printhead Adapter if I am buying the 1.75mm extruder and does the fan shroud (Spirit's) support the Olson Block upgrade ?

The olsen block fits within the same footprint as the OEM UM2 printhead, so everything should fit as expected.

which extruder do I buy, the 1.75 or the 3mm ?

Agree w/Scott. I use 1.75 mainly because I was fully stocked w/1.75 before building the UM2.

From an availability standpoint, I do think you will find more 1.75mm options (color, type, etc) than 3mm.

Thats personal preference. I believe its easier to stay with 3mm since its compatible with all the ultimaker parts, but if its easier for you to acquire 1.75mm filament, then that may be a smarter option.

Hello mate nice work! where can I find the part for the fan hotend please

Im assuming you are talking about the hot end fan. I had bought mine through amazon, but it caused all sorts of clogging problems for me due to its lack of air flow. So I would recommend buying the official ultimaker 2 fan through fbrc8. thats what I did and it made a huge difference in printer performance and reliability over the generic option.

Under the BOM it has "2020 Setup w/HeatBed Upgrade Kit $846.75" Where would we find that?

That is just an estimation of all the parts purchased individually to make the setup. There isn't an actual full kit for the printer.

Hello, it is possible to change the motherboard ultimaker by an arduino mega?

Yes, it is! There are many clones based on RAMPS or other MEGA based boards, including mine ;)

I ordered a set of rods for my clone
all 8 and 6 mm were bended in multiple places so they are unusable for my printer
I wanted either a replacement, a full refund or a discount of my purchase/including shipping on my next purchase
What they offered was 30% money back excluding shipping which is a ridiculous amount
paid 42$ and they want pay me back only not even 4$
totally unacceptable

I replaced my Aliexpress rods with Misumi linear shafts. Night and day difference. The printer was actually quieter. Use high quality parts where it counts.

yeah, if you can afford it, the Misumi shafts make all the difference.

I'm not defending robotdigg, but I have ordered stuff from them before w/no problem. The linear rods are just one area where I bought expensive rods... part of why they're expensive is the quality control. What you're getting with the higher local price is that they've inspected and only sell quality parts.

A place like Robotdigg or any Aliexpress seller is shipping you parts CHEAP... with very minimal QA on those parts, and often under-packed when shipped. Linear rods have been a problem for almost everyone who have bought them in China directly. But bearings, switches, electronics, etc have all been successful for me. I had one bad OLED controller and had to do the back and forth of making videos and showing the problem... yeah, it was a pain in the ass, but I knew this going into it. It got resolved but took more than a month with all the slow shipping. I paid shipping back to China (Cost me $13), but they re-shipped a good display/controller as soon as they got it... They're not Amazon and can't afford that level of free-shipping.

Hey guys. I started to cut out the floor plexiglass. Down loaded the floor files loaded them on a flash drive when to my local maker space with plexi in hand. They have a nice laser cutter. Problem was the .dxe file was useless. Could not recognize a thing so needless to say no nice cut floor for me.

Any way I can print this out on a plotter at work to cut it out by hand? Which file? I am not to familiar with any of the extensions of the floor files either.

Hmmmm..... Possibly got corrupted? I know of a handful of people who have successfully used the DXF file. There is also an EPS and CDR (CorelDraw) file you could try.

I managed to convert the DXF file to pdf and printed it out on a plotter but it was way to small. Can you give the the exact outside dimensions
then I can blow it up maybe? There is no mention of the floor in the frame construction manual. Does it fit inside the channels on the extruded aluminum? If so how do you wire up the mother bd after?

I am confused as to why the z axis limit sw is on the bottom and not the top.

What happened the the y limit sw mount?


The dimensions are 307.8mm wide (x-axis) x 338.705 mm long (y-axis).

To place the floor in place, you will tilt it slightly as you feed it thru the front of the machine. Then lets the floor slip into the top set of the aluminum extrusion. Once inserted, the front will rest against the OLED display controller's mount.

As far as the limit switch placement, it's the same placement as the original UM2 design. The limit switches are X (min), Y (max), Z (max). So that's why it's on the bottom.

The Y-axis limit switch is part of the gantry mount. You can see it on the main photo (green limit switch). You'll just need a couple of the spacers STLs.

Hi. I almost finished with it, but I can't understand how to set the bed in zero position. There is only Z max endstop in this design.

It's based on the height of your Z-axis and will vary slightly based on your build. It does't have to be exact in the firmware as you will use the level bed function to "zero in" the bed.

Thank you for your answer, but I don't understand this mechanics (from ultimaker forum):

"When you first start a print, the bed tries to go down first. There it hits the limit switch - it does a kind of bounce movement, first triggering the limit switch and then going a bit up and down again. Then it waits for the nozzle to heat up. After that, it goes up and stops a few cm before the nozzle. There it waits until the nozzle starts extruding some filament and then the print starts and the bed goes all the way up to the nozzle."

For why? Why it goes to the max and after that to the home position? Why not the other way round?

I have mounted 90% of this printer but I view some pieces in the photo of bowden extruder but only 2 pieces of STL is it correct, or you forget a piece. great Job jason

If you say about feeder, you may look here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2364209

Ultimaker 2 feeder
by starij

Not sure I understand your question. The extruder is not my design, so those files are here

which Yoke And Hub do i print ?

I think I used the 37mm version. It comes down to the bearing used and the size of your spring.

I've been struggling for about 5 months to figure out why my bed won't go over 75C. It turns out the UM2 motherboards from aliexpress have a "max current of 9A" and heat beds should be under 90C.
Besides for getting a real UM2 motherboard are there any suggestions on how to get my bed over 100C so I can print ABS?

Yeah, I've heard that several times now (within the comments), that the aliexpress-purchased version won't get past 70-80.

I opted for the official UM heated bed kit... it comes with the 24V PSU, Z-axis motor w/lead screw, and everything you need for the bed.... it costs a little more than piecing it all out, but not by much. It's everything you need and it just works. I've had issues in the past w/insufficient heated beds so I chose the easier path.

Doesn't really help you, but thought I'd pass on the info on the official heatbed kit.

@jasonatepaint, what is the amperage of the power supply in the upgrade kit? thanks

Comments deleted.

I love the printer so it just may be worth it. I look around for the best deal and do the upgrade. EDIT: I decided to order another power supply and a power module like the bed upgrade. Fingers crossed.

Comments deleted.

where are the files for the extruder fan mount and the rest of the filament extruder drive system?

It's on the last page of the instructions. They aren't my design, so I've linked to the other projects

Using Jason bottom brackets as template I made a bottom bracket that makes the 2 bottom side and the bottom bracket into 1 bottom bracket.
I also increased the wall thickness all around and made the branches longer so I could add an extra screw on each one.

Here is the link if you are interested.


Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion clone bottom backet

Jason, I've read through most of the comments. On one of them you mentioned the spacer between the flange bearing and pulley is 8mm. But on the files you provided the 5X gantry spacers are 10mm. I've have printed the 10mm only to find out that the slider blocks are pushed out a little too far and are now at a 45 degree angle. So I'm guessing 8mm is the correct length?

Hmmm.... well, there are 3 size spacers for the gantry (5mm, 10mm, 25mm).... they are for fitting over 8mm linear rods.

I didn't hunt down the comment, but it's possible I meant the ID of the spacer and not the length. Once the spacers are in place, all the pulleys should align for straight belt alignment on both the X and Y axis.

I followed the UM2 build instructions and the 4X 10mm in length are for the Y rods. The 5mm are for the X(Front) and 1X 10mm and 1X 25mm (Rear)is also for the X. I'm probably going to sand the 10mm down to 8mm. I checked my bearings and they are all in snug.

The bearing's flanged side is sitting flush in their printed parts? That's the only thing I can think of as far as causing a 2mm offset on each axis.

Yes they are. I printed the parts in ABS, I wonder if they warped.

There's a small percentage (I forget the exact number) of shrinkage with ABS... but that doesn't exactly explain why you need to shorten the spacers. maybe send some photos of the linear rod/bearing holders. Maybe I see something obvious... maybe not. :-)

Does anybody has the Cura config file for this printer

If you're building it as an UM2, you can use the default UM2 cura profile.

If you built w/1.75 filament extruder/hotend setup, you will change those settings in the material settings on the machine.

What are the type of the connectors to plug the stepper motors onto the motherboard ?
All the stepper motors are coming without the end connectors
Thank you

Okay i think i have a problem i need to turn the flow rate to 230 % to get a good print i have update the software en i have the correct feeder knurled wheel drive gear what can by te problem do i have to set the setting in the software ?
i Thought that it was already good on the default.

Sorry for the delay. It sounds like a configuration issue. By default the UM2 uses a 90 degree stepper. If you're having to double the flow rate, it sounds like you're possibly doing 200 steps per rotation where you should be doing 400 on the extruder.

That's the problem i purchase a 0.9 degree step motor
and already changed it to test that theory
and already changed it to test that theory
can i use the extra hotend connector for the extruder motor
maybe the the extruder driver is broken ?

Hello, I have a problem to print mainboard enclosure, The wall around is broke when its print. I have tested 3x ABS, PLA.
Does anyone have the same problem?

The "wall around" is broke? What do you mean? The large slots on the walls of the enclosure are there to allow routing of wires/etc. The rounded edges of the slots will print w/o any need for supports with adequate cooling....

gimme more info

the sides take of in print making in think its the width of the side 4-5mm Is to fit. I take 0,2 layer, or maybe its the quality of my PLA... A have printed all of part with no problem. I think i will take it with 3dhub to finish

i haved calibration problem of extruder so that the reason why i haved problem. thx jason

IMHO M3 is a bit weak, I think maybe using M5 will be a better choice and might also help increase build quality for a bit

You could use M5... but why? You would add to the cost and weight of the machine for no real payoff. The frame is very rigid. M5 screws are used on the top and bottom ends of the X-axis extrusions. You must use an M5 tap to create the threads manually.

Remember, this is a 3D printer and not a CNC router/mill. There won't be excessive force needed to move the print head. So unless you're also planning on using it as a step ladder, you should be fine with M3. :-D

Curious if anyone has build a larger version of this printer. I love mine, but now wondering if one with a 400x400mm bed would be possible.

Been trying to get me printer to work reliably to no avail. Quite frustrating. When I first started printing it was super super loud. The motors sound like they were working quite hard. Swapped out the Chinese linear shafts to Misumi ones. Huge difference, don't waste your time with cheap Chinese shafts.
Anyways, I have an issue where the printhead randomly moves out to either the X or Y limit, comes back and continues printing. Very strange and I have no idea why or how to correct this. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance.

Very true... you get what you pay for and good linear rods cost $$. :-)

Lots of questions as I don't know the controller you're using, the firmware, etc... It sounds like a short somewhere possibly (maybe with the thermistor or heat cartridge) causing the firmware to go to a "dump" area and the movement fixes the short and it moves back.


  • What controller and firmware?
  • Does it do it with every print? Are you even able to print?
  • Does the machine properly home for all 3 axis? Repeatedly/consistently?
  • If you connect via USB, using something like Simplify3D or Cura or Repetier Host, can you manually move the machine around it's boundaries?

My main board is the Ultimaker 2.1.4 and I'm using TinkerGnome 16.01.

About the only prints that have be somewhat successful are the XYZ calibration cube and Benchy. I tried printing the print in place Iris Box and it finished but the head did its random thing.

I would say the head always homes consistently.

I use Cura but the weird thing is I've never been able to print over USB and I have no idea why. The machine starts going like its printing, but there's no warmup cycle and just the head moves around and nothing is being extruded.

I came across some others talking about a Prusa I3 having similar issues. I read not to bundle stepper motor harnesses and to shield the ribbon cable from the SD controller to the mainboard. I had bundled my motor harnesses, so I separated them. I haven't shielded the ribbon cables.

When I was building the printer up, during installation of the printhead heater cartridge there is a portion that crimps around the wiring that broke, but the cartridge heats perfectly. You know that little tab that extends from the body of the heater cartridge and crimps around the wire??

Very much appreciate your help Jasonatepaint!

Adding to this.... by default, the UM2 should home with the Z-axis with bed at the bottom. Facing the printer straight on, the printhead should be at the back-left side.

If this isn't happening when you home, you made need to flip some INVERT AXIS variables in Configuration.h

I wanted to let you know I solved my issues. Here is what I've done.

• I have no cover installed over my main board electronics (not sure if this is part of it though).

• I recently had changed my ribbon cables and secured them away from each other. However they were longer than the original ones.

• I decided to cut my ribbon cables to the length shown in the Ultimaker Master files. With that change I noticed the issue wasn't as bad. Maybe I was on to something.

• I have 2 SD card readers, one conveniently on my office desk and another that I have to reach over to plug into my PC. One I purchased from China Aliexpress and the other locally.

• I decided I'd try shielding my ribbon cables, so I wrapped them with aluminum foil and taped it in place. This led to the printer producing a 100% print.

• I attempted to repeat this success and loaded another file to my SD card from my Aliexpress SD card reader. The print failed. Upon returning the SD card to the PC, Windows 10 report an error with the card and recommended repairing it. I did that. Reloaded the SD card, again using the Aliexpress SD card reader. Back to the printer and it failed in exactly the same spot the previous print had.

• Next I formatted the SD card and instead used the locally bought SD card reader. Wrote a file to the card and proceeded to print again. Success! Another 100% print!

• I have know determined that I have cured multiple issues.

  1. The ribbon cables for some reason needed shielding.

  2. The Aliexpress SD card reader corrupted the Gcode.

Yeah, it homes perfectly for all axis. No issue there.

Does anyone know where I can get a heat bed that actually reaches 100+ Celsius? Every one I have seen or bought so far struggles to reach 80 with 24v.

try 3dheatbeds.com there builds are insane...are you in the states?

If getting a proper heated bed is such a lottery, why not to try to do it my way?:)
I've made my own heated bed from scratch because there is no 12V alternative that would cover 100% of UM2 work area.
You just need to get yourself a 24V silicone heater and You are good to go.


Custom 12V Heater for UM2 Clone
by S3bape

found this one that says: Resistance: 3.0 - 3.2 Ohm


did not order it yet, but think this could do the job.



I have same problem, I thought when i make 24v heatbed everything will be perfect, but actually, this bed is worse than my mk3 12v...
I bought it on aliexpres.
But maybe heatbed from robotdigg works better??

Are those dimensions for the shafts the right one

PSFJ6-320 (1)
PSFJ6-301 (1)
PSFJ8-348 (2)
PSFJ8-337 (2)

What about the 12 mm ones ?


I think those are correct, the 12mm are PSFJ12-339 if you're ordering with misumi. If you're building the extended version, you need longer ones (think it was 444mm).

Does anybody has links where to buy the limit switches including the long one for the X axes

Are you using the long one for Y and Z as well ?

long for X motor, and normal for Y and Z, but You can always cut off a little bit to fit. On the Z i have inverted litmit switch, because i have problem with lvling, sometimes bed leveld little bit to high, and i thought its a problem with limit switch of Z, but now is good.

Did you connect just the oudside extrusions by using tapped holes and m5 button cap screws? So you get a sturdy cube or bolt all the extrusions together?


Yeah, same as @megatrack67... I tapped M5 threads too.... very solid

i did connected mine by tapping m5 holes then using m5x10mm screws, then I 3dprinted all the backets in PETG
With all the backets this frame won't move

I printed all of the parts in PLA on my UM2Go and decided to get a frame for my build instead. If anyone wants my parts, send me a message and I'll just mail them to you in the US.

I also have my old bearings that will ship with this. They're loud, but they work.

Edit: This stuff has been given away.

Thanks for the heads up... I've started a complaint w/Alibaba group and have contacted the seller.

It's one thing to steal and profit from someone's work, but to straight-up use my actual photos too... it's highly deceptive as I doubt that what they ship to you will look exactly like photos.

no problem. Best of luck with dealing with this clown

Is it a good idea to mount led pieces on top aluminium face down?

You could.... but why? :-) The leds are pretty directional, so you want to point them in the direction you want to illuminate. The LED strip would also glare outward and could be annoying if you're anywhere within eye-line of it.

The only issue I would be cautious of is the quality of the strip. I have found some strips don't have a barrier (excluding the adhesive) on the backside of the strips where the copper pads are exposed for cutting/soldering. If the adhesive rubs enough, those pads can get exposed and you don't want them stuck to conductive metals. The coating/finish on the aluminum extrusions (at least the Misumi ones) don't conduct, but any unfinished area will.

I just thinking about to use Your led mount(no directly on aluminium) and screw it on left side next to x endstop mount, right opposite and(but LEDs faced down to the bottom of printer) front like You mounted, But i don't know if that will be a good way, because I am still waiting for LEDs, btw iam making extended version. Do You think that Your way will work as good as in non-extended version in that case or maybe from the top? I just consider other ways, but as You said it doesnt have to be a good way.

Either way will be fine.

Are the stl for the frame the proper dimesion, because when I print them in PETG, the holes are too small for the M3 and the rails to go on the alu frame are too long

would it be possible to have the files in step format

Thank you in advance

Check out my remix of some of the parts. All printed in PETG. :)

UM2 Aluminium - BoXon Remixed parts
by BoXon

Am i the only one who cant find the cover that says ultimaker for the print bed ?

If you search in the fusion 360 model You'll find it.
It toke me a while to find it.
I had to disable components one by one in order to find it
I extracted the stl.

hello sir,
i am planning to build this printer, how much will cost me? any rough estimate?

Mine cost approximately 600$ with Original E3D V6. :)

Do you have any info/guide on how you installed all your electrical components
Same king of guide you did for your frame

Of all your project That is the only part I'm looking for so I can proceed


The electronics part isn't as difficult as it looks. If you have some basic knowledge of electrical components its fairly straight forward. The hardest part is putting the connectors on the ends of the wire for the motors, but that just because its to small and take some trial and error. You will also likely need to solder a few connections for the LED lighting. A great resource is the actual ultimate 2 instruction guide. It shows nearly all the electrical stuff you'll need if I remember right.

Thank you for the info

The led stripe is cold or warm light?

That's totally up to you. I have cold on mine, but warm would work. Just depends on what ya like.

Where do you get the M3 screws for the frame? The ones which fasten the printed frame parts to the extrusion. The nuts are listed but not the matching screws.


Ive found that the best place to buy the screws would either be eBay or amazon. I think I ended up using both.

What I mean is that I cannot find the dimensions of the screws. Maybe I just didn't see them. Ill have another look.

Those can be found on the build instructions page

Some pieces in the extruder are not in the file?

It's stated in the Build Instructions that the rest of the extruder is available here:

is anyone running a Duet WIFI on this build.... i ordered one, now im not sure that was the wisest move

I am currently in the process of setting mine up on a duet wifi. Did you manage to get yours sorted?

doood. the board is freaking awesome..i purchased the 5" lcd also. so well made..join the forum...support is great...i am still doing my build..i was a bit intimidated by the board at first...it is def for the micromanager :)..but updating the g-code is so easy. everything is browser based...so you can either use their lcd...a cellie..computer etc.......still waiting for my dual head extruder so i am not up and running yet...as soon as i am i will do a video..
my build is 18 x18 x18 30 mm 8020 extrusion dual extruder ...auto be levelling :)

Yes I have a DuetWifi on another printer and it is amazing. So quiet and really easy to work with. I am doing the extended version and am ready to turn it on tonight. I just need some glass for the bed.

If I buy an ultimaker heated bed like this:
Can I use a regular RAMPS for controlling it?

Yes. But you either have to change the PT100 sensor to a regular thermistor or get the electronics to convert the PT100 signal to what the Ramps can handle.

Comments deleted.

Thanks for this great printer.
I have some troubles with the 2 hotend Fans connected to the fan PWM, they wont Start turning, only if i help them to Start. But i think they are turning to slow. If fanspeed is set 0% i messure ~24 V , when it set to 100% i messure ~19V. Is this normal, or is my board Broken?

Yeah, it sounds like you killed the PWM circuit for the fans. While it sucks, you can just use the second hotend output on the board (and change the pin in the firmware) to resolve the problem. That PWM circuit is super delicate and you can kill it so easily. I've killed 2 of them myself.... and that was being mostly careful :-p

You didn't mention how you wired the fans... but they should be 12v fans wired in a series so that the 24v is split between the 2 fans. However, this isn't always the case and depends on the circuits used to drive the fans and if they can support pwm via 2 wire (positive/negative) signals.

Hey guys, I got a bunch of 42mm stepper motors from old printers, can I use them for this build instead of the 40mm ones?

One thing I noticed is that this steppers do not have a D shaft, will that be an issue?

42mm nema 17 motors will work in all areas except for the motor that drives the x-axis IF you use the bed cover that hides the linear bearings on the bed. There isn't enough room for 2 extra mm's. You could probably modify the cover to make it work.

Hope that helps.

Hello guys.

Can somebody help me with limit switch? What i should buy?
I have self made Ultimaker 1(gt2560) but there i have 6 limit switch(X,Y,Z - min, X,Y,Z - max), and in UM2 we have only 3 limit switch?
I want to use again gt2560 for that um2 clone buil.

The switches you have will work fine. The only exception is the Y axis, which requires long arm. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Limit-Switch-Lever-Subminiature/dp/B005CS6Y3M/ref=sr_1_5

Can I use those switch in addition to the long one for the Y axis ?

Beautiful build......i started a similar build but with 3030 24x24...now im thinking 20 m extrusion might be a little smarter.
also anyone looking for 20mm extrusion stateside tnutz.com has really good deals. no i don't work there.

Thanks :-) I'll have to check them out. I've had pretty good success w/Misumi (no I don't work there - and not affiliated in any way). They are pricey on some things, but the extrusions are custom cut to your requirements for $2-3 an extrusion, so the whole set cut to size (16 pieces) is about $30. For custom cut to size, that's cheap to me. :-)

Just started assembling the frame but the "steps" that locate in the 2020 slot interfere with the M3 post assembly nuts? Did anyone else come across this?

Are you using Misumi nuts and 2020 extrusions? That's what it was designed around. Another user had this issue because of different nuts. His solution was to just sand down the required amount of that raised area to allow it to fit.

I am using Misumi 2020 but I have the post assembly nuts recommended in the bom. The Misumi nuts are pretty expensive!

try tnutz.com for tee nut , dropins etc...great prices...they have 2020 extrusion and 3030 extrusion also...takes about aweek usually to get stuff..forget where they are located...but it is nice quality..i use them when i am doing 8020 builds...usually jsut for hardware

The Misumi ones are more expensive, but much more of a pleasure to work with. The first printer I built, I used Misumi and on my next build, I used the cheap ones.... and while they worked, the threading for the screw is sub-par and some had to be tossed because of this.

The Misumi PRE-assembly nuts are the easiest to work with, but you must put things together in order. The POST-assembly nuts allow the most freedom and allow you to correct mistakes more easily.... but they're a pain in the butt to deal with because they must be twisted into place before tightening and I found often I had to fight to get them to stay in while tightening other nuts.

So it's a toss up between "easy and expensive" and "cheaper but patience required".... :-)

true drop-in teenusts...can be a PIA. tho an be alife saver also :P

What's the total number required? I just can't bring myself to spend £100 on nuts!

Where does the print head assembly parts come from? Is there a link to purchase these? I found a few parts on Ebay from BIM links, but still need advice/direction for these items.

I bought my complete UM2 printhead setup on aliexpress

Looks like I burned out my Y-axis driver on the motherboard after a year+ of use. Grrr.. guess I really should have added a fan to actively cool the PCB. Lesson learned.

Hmmmm. That sucks. Maybe the enclosure played into it? or running the printer in a hot room (garage)?

Follow up: While the motherboard had some discoloring.. it wasn't bad. I did a minor upgrade while I waited for a new motherboard to arrive. New Stepper motors for X & Y and hotend. Turns out the X-axis motor had gone bad. Put a new (better) motor in and the UM2 started running better than before.

Course now I have an extra motherboard. Keep as a backup or sell? hmmm..

It's multiple things. I print almost exclusively ABS and it turns out I've been running the bed 30c hotter than needed. My other RepRap printer needs a hotter bed. So I always assumed this one needed similar. Nope.

Also this fall I ran the printer non stop for a week or two to finish a project. It was running in my home office and probably wasn't getting enough cool air.

Plus recently there's been a noticeable spark/short in the hotend that I hadn't been able to locate.

All things told, I think I cooked the Y-Axis driver on the PCB. Probably from the excessive heat from the heated chamber. So I ordered a new motherboard. And while I'm waiting i'm going to upgrade the printer with a new hotend and a new stepper motor for the Y-axis. Then also see if anyone has made a remix for the PCB holder that includes a fan or two.

Hey guys, I have an issue here, I am really looking forward to building one of this and I "tried" to buy a smaller printer for different reasons and one of those reasons was printing the needed parts for this. Anyway, Gearbest screwed me up, so, no mini 3D printer for me.
Is there a way to source all the parts on the no so expensive side for building this awesome printer?

3d hubs or a similar service could do you pretty well. I assume for all the parts printed well it would be ~100 that is really just a guess though.

Hi. Is possible to increase the frame size and the axis to 12 x 12 x 12?

Does anyone can point me out the ref number or witch is the best smoorh rod and bearing from misumi please?

PSFJ6, PSFJ8, and PSFJ12 are the part numbers for the rods I bought.

does anyone have any good leads on GOOD rods that aren't Misumi? Preferably in Canada?
I also need to source slider bushings for 8mm rod

(i'm waiting to hear back from misaim about shipping to Canada...)

Have you looked at Spool3D or ElectronicGeek?

chekcing now, thanks for the lead

Comments deleted.

Hey so I'm looking for some advice. I built a UM2 clone and I've installed the new UM2+ feeder but I'm still using the original stepper motor. I was wondering has anyone done that and what settings did you change for it to work properly? Thanks in advance.

The UM2 feeder used a 0.9 degree step angle with the reasoning that they provide more torque. So you just need to figure out if the new UM2+ extruder motor is 0.9 or 1.8 step angle. Either will work, it's just a matter of changing a value in the firmware related to the STEPS per revolution.

Yeah, so I thought I came across that the stock extruder motor runs at 282 steps, I've tried doubling that. I was hoping someone may have already done the leg work and found what steps work best.

Any chance on V-Slot edition? can't get my hands on misumi i Norway, and the lady at home will kill me if i build another printer, got 3 now.
So my plan is to recycle one i already got because it's nothing but problem and save a lot of money.
i tryed to edit in tinkercad but failed completely :/

take a look at this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065
v-slot would be better than misumi

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer
OpenBuilds V-Slot™ Linear Actuators

The irony
Thats the one i got, and it's nothing but P.I.T.A. Maybe i have a "monday edition"

Really?! tell me more because this is what I am planning to do... I have nothing but issues with linear bearings not moving smooth and too much play and chrome rods not straight making look like I have a warped bed.
I expect the v-slot to be straighter. maybe comment it on that project since it not related to this one.

sorry for my bad english, not my strongest part.
Printed crutial construction parts and carrige in PETG with upto 100% infill. can't do ABS(fumes, kid and 2 dogs in tiny apartment)
but the bed was still out of position after every print, even with glass on top it still felt like center of it was bulking upwords.
Tried a remix of all "moving" parts to 3-point v-wheels with with a screw to tighten everything up and there was still some movement.
even tryed adding another 2040 v-slot so it's on wheels on all 4 corners and moving Z-axis motors to the center of gravity. still problems.
in my last try i removed everything, just kept the bed construction and moded some holders and bearing guides in the back and moved both z-motors int the back. almost no movement that's not supposed to be there. but i think 2040 is just a bit too heavy for my setup so i will just recycle it into another printer or keep going and switch from 8mm to 10 or 12mm rods and get an aluminum plate to stiffen the bed even more and replace 2040 with 2020 for bed support construction. i did get v-slot parts from open builds store so, no copys from aliexpress or ebay.
by no means, D-Bot is a good and solid design, just my bad luck with it.

95% of the problems you will have with linear rods are with cheap linear rods. Good linear rods are expensive... so buying the cheapest ones on ebay/aliexpress, may save money but will end with you needing to replace all of them. It's been an endless problem for people here.

I started with quality 8mm rods and have never had any issues. So before you scrap the entire setup, look at replacing them. Misumi has been very successful for others.

How much were the Misumi rods and do you have the spec? The ones I keep finding on Misumi UK are £25 each for the 12mm ones!

Hello, I ordered the wrong axle length for Z (12mm x 337mm instead of 339mm).. Could you build a 337mm Version? :-)

The Z axis mounts have gaps to support the length of 339mm, but 337mm is going to still work.

There is only 2mm difference there. You should be able to get away with it. If it is the lead screw then it will be fine. If it is the smooth rods, the either buy the aluminium 12mm clamps or pack the top Z axis mount where the smooth rods go with 1 or 2 washers or something else that works.


Can you upload your working firmware because i don't understand the firmware it will not work bij me.

Not that simple. My printers have custom settings to support various mods. Its something you really need to do yourself. My instructions give a bit of info on what needs to be done and where to get the firmware.... you're going to need some patience and time. It'll make the whole building process better when you can configure the hardware and software.

I hope to soon post some photos of the completed project, but in the meantime I wanted to let you know that I finished my build of the printer and the direct drive E3D V6 hotend mod a couple of weeks ago. It's working great and required minimal post-assembly calibration.

Thanks so much for making this available, and for all the help you've provided me and everyone else during our builds!

Could you share your setup on the direct drive E3D V6 hotend

You're welcome! :-)

Do you need support in all the bolt holes when printing some of the parts or can you get away without it?

I didn't use any support for the holes.

Comments deleted.

Hey guys.

To build this as an Extended Version: how long needs the vertical 2020 extrusion profiles to be?

And are these the correct length's for the smooth rods:
2x 337 mm (8mm dia)
2x 348 mm (8mm dia)
2x 437 mm (12mm dia)
1x 301 mm (6mm dia)
1x 320 mm (6mm dia)

Ultimaker 2 Extended Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printer
by spoos

i know this may seem like a dumb idea but could put the UM2 extrusion upgrade kit on this and also are you thinking about a clone or tribute to UM3???

Comments deleted.

Hi guys,
Is there an alternative design for the heated bed ?
Buying the original UM2 heated bed will blow up my budget.

Just found this kit on Aliexpress for about 100 euros, I'll buy the rest from somewhere else.

Comments deleted.

Buy it from Robotdigg. :)

I got the full kit I mentioned in my previous comment from Aliexpress for 100 euros with free DHL Express shipping. It was shipped on monday, and I received it yesterday (3 days shipping from China to France)

It's got everything; the aluminum plate, heated bed, glass, glass clips, linear bearings, leadscrew nut, the Z axis cover, the screws and springs for bed leveling.

Did you install the kit ?
How is it ?
I'm in the process of building mine and I'm also on a budget

Comments deleted.

Anyone has a clue to why my bed temperature goes crazy high?

Are you sure you'r using the PT100 sensor? The Ultimakerboard doesn't support the commonly used thermistor that most other RepRap machines uses. The PT100 thermocoupler works a little different from the thermistor.

It's under control now.
Probably loose wiring or something...

This issue still troubles me.
Look at this graph, once this happen I get M999 and everything stops.

Comments deleted.

Hi guys! does anybody know what's the heatbed size? 200x300?


Specifications for all parts can be found here:

Am I the only one who got the Tenacious D reference?

HAHA You beat me to it!

HAHA You beat me to it!

It's been lost on most... but a few have gotten it. :-D Props!

The 4 or so specials they had on Showtime rocked. Rage KJ

The 4 or so specials they had on Showtime rocked. Rage KJ

Am I the only one who got the Tenacious D reference?

Hmm.. My SD-slot in the 3D printed part doesn't line up with the SD-slot on the motherboard (controller card), any suggestions what might be wrong? The slot in the motherboard looks to be higher (a few millimeters) than the slot in the printed part. My friend is also having the same issue, any suggestions?

I had the same issue when I built mine. I ended up filing a couple mil. from each leg on the part OLED_Front_Electronics_Support. I think one of my main issues was printing the parts from a machine that wasn't truly calibrated. How far off is the slot?

I had the same issue when I built mine. I ended up filing a couple mil. from each leg on the part OLED_Front_Electronics_Support. I think one of my main issues was printing the parts from a machine that wasn't truly calibrated. How far off is the slot?

I had the same issue when I built mine. I ended up filing a couple mil. from each leg on the part OLED_Front_Electronics_Support. I think one of my main issues was printing the parts from a machine that wasn't truly calibrated. How far off is the slot?

Hmmm. Not sure.... Maybe Ultimaker has modified the controllerboard since this was designed? Does the board have a version number on it? I'd need to see a picture to get a better idea.

There are some spacer objects for alignment. A file called "OLED_Front_Electronics_Support" and the OLED spacer files are used to secure the board to the controller board case.

Here's a picture of how it looks, as you can see the slot is aligned with the motherboard itself and not with the SD-slot on top of it.

I'm using all of the spacers that is specified in the assembly manual and when i measured them before putting them in they where of by at most +0.25mm. But on my picture it looks like i need to either move the board 2 millimeters or more down, or reprint the frontpanel and move the slot up by about 2mm. Or did i miss anything? :)

So i modified the frontpanel to fit the SD-card, and also the knob to allow it to be rotated more easily.
Uploaded it to my remix of parts for this built: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1921175


UM2 Aluminium - BoXon Remixed parts
by BoXon

Hi, here are the nuts can be used http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1073567 ?

T-nut M3 2020 aluprofile

Where can i find heated bed holder?

Do you mean the large aluminum plate that the heated bed is mounted to? If so, you can find it on Aliexpress from various sellers. Just search for Ultimaker 2 heated bed

Comments deleted.

I ordered one from Robotdigg when i ordered the steppers, i cannot say anything about the quality yet as it has not arrived, but i should probably do so in next week so i can get back here then. Robotdigg sells it for 18$.

I received both the heated bed and the "holder" for it from robotdigg last week. Both seems to be of great quality and i would recommend buying it from them, they have great support and accurate products. :-) They have the best price too!

Heads up to everyone! Don't buy your rods from the seller "3DS store" on Aliexpress (The one linked in the BOM). The rods i received is bent and wobble like crazy when mounted in the machine. Also one of the 8mm rods has a larger diameter and does not even fit trough the bearings so im unable to even mount that one. The seller claims it's "normal" and wont refund me.

I've been meaning to update the BOM to remove that link and hopefully update w/a higher quality option. Thanks for the heads up/reminder :-)

Yeah i had to buy new ones from a german supplier (https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/)
The seller at "3DS store" finally agreed to refund half of my money after a long debate. (Aliexpress also had to step in)

I also noted that some screws needed are not mentioned in the BOM, like for example the M4x10mm for attaching the bearing to the bed and a couple of more.. Found out about this the hard way. :)

Most likely due to the fact that I used the Um2 heated bed upgrade kit, which included all "bed" parts.

Most likely due to the fact that I used the Um2 heated bed upgrade kit, which included all "bed" parts.

Had som problems with not being able to tighten some of the corner brackets enough, so i modified them a bit and it works great now, probably because i got my aluminium from Motedis instead of Misumi, guess they are a little bit different?
Here's my mod:

UM2 Aluminium - BoXon Remixed parts
by BoXon

An update and help request:
I replaced the cheap rods with better precision rods bought from china.
Just pop them in, they look straight and clean. No wobbling like before...
Also, printed all the parts in Nylon instead of PLA for the 3rd time they broke.

What gets me into this issue: The print head has quite a resistance moving along the X axis.
Maybe that's why my parts keep breaking?
Y is looser but still quite tight, I need to apply reasonable force to move the print head manually both axis.

What rods did you buy? My china rods seems wobbly as hell, one of them doesn't even fit into the gantry bearings. :S

I agree with Mike... try manually moving the printhead without the belts. If you have any resistance, in either X or Y, you'll have to track down what's causing it.

A couple things I would check....

  1. Check each 8mm rod independently... Make sure that they spin freely while attached to the bearings.

  2. The squaring of the extrusion frame... If there is any gaps between the extrusions where they are attached together, make sure remove those gaps. This causes the rods to be slightly offset and not completely parallel with the frame, which will cause friction.

These tests will require you to do a little bit of disassembly of the gantry. And since everything is very tight and requires a specific order for dis/assembly, don't rush it. As long as you can rule out each bearing and rod and their fitment, you'll eventually track it down.

During my adjustments of the belts, I found it was handy to loosen the set screws on the pulleys allowing me to make small adjustments to the tension of the belt on both the upper/lower portion of the belt loop.


I replaced the rods with higher precision rods and the results is amazing.
One thing I can't put my head around is missed steps!
Once I go below 120mm/s there aren't any missed steps, but 120mm/s and above, all prints has missing steps in the X axis:
This wasn't the case before I reprinted the parts in nylon, because they keep breaking.

It might be that the old rods you had did a number on the linear bearings in the print head. I would try to move the x axis, without the belts installed to see if there is any play. I replaced my rods right from the start because I didn't like the look of the ali express rods. My printer seems to be running great.

I'm finally getting started on my build for this printer, and I'm really excited! I got the frame assembled. Now I'm working on the x and y rods, and I have a couple of questions. First off, it seems that the bearings don't want to stay set into the gantry parts very well. Is that normal, or should I try to secure them in some way? Second, I've noticed that the rods are just long enough (not a millimeter to spare) to reach to the outer end of each pair of bearings. Is that the way it should be? I apologize if these are newbie questions and the answers are obvious.

The flanged bearings that fit into the gantry parts are a tight fit. Sounds like maybe your printed parts are a greater tolerance than expected.

There are spacers that fit between the bearing and the pulley. The pulley should be pushed outward towards the spacer and bearing. Once the pulley's set screws are tightened, everything should lock in place.

Thanks for the response Jason! What you said about the pulley holding everything in place makes sense. If it's really loose, I may try reprinting one of the parts, but I think the pulley should secure things just fine.

jasonatepaint nicely designed. But from my experience so far, i haven't finished build yet. It seems very hard to source all parts and make it perfect fit, I got closed loop belts, but they seem to be to big, also my rods seems to be inaccurate, a see wobbling in middle of rods while turning them around. Maybe i would try to find some carriages with belt tensioning and not use this closed belts after all. Maybe i would try to increase frame size, to compensate for belts to be properly tensioned.

The closed belts, if they're correct size are tight fit and require parts to be assembled in a specific order. Those instructions are available in the official UM2 build documentation.

If your belts are too big, I could only assume they aren't the correct size. I've built a few of these and have had the same experience with the fit of the parts/belts.

The frame was designed in CAD to be an exact fit/replacement for the UM2 walled frame.... so I can say with confidence it all fits if the correct parts are used. The aluminum extrusions must be cut to exact sizes for things to fix correctly.

Any idea when you're going to design the UM3 upgrade kit for this? j/k. This is better designed and implemented then every delta or cartesian clone I've ever put together. Once all the parts were at my door and parts printed, this was such an easy build. You are really gonna go places with the patience and skill required to mechanically translate the um2 to CAD, and keeping it dimensionally accurate. Best of luck.


And the answer to your question.... as soon as all the aliexpress vendors start carrying the parts :-p I've only see the marketing video for the UM3, so I couldn't tell how much has changed. I'll have to go see if the UM3 CAD files are published yet... even though I really have NO more room for anymore printers!

From what I've seen, the huge difference between the UM2 and UM3 is the new printhead. The wifi and digital filament system aren't deal breaking features for the most of us. If we could get a UM3 printhead and adapt it to the UM2 board, that would be awesome. A bracket for the little tab that switches the printhead nozzles will be the only thing that has to be designed and installed to the aluminum extrusion. I could be completely wrong, the printhead may require the UM3 mainboard to be completely functional. Either way I am going to do research as the information comes out to figure out if this is possible. My build is still going strong!

Oh, that's okey. Send your old printers to me so you can continue developing with this good work! ;-D

This thing is printing ABS amazingly well. I do have the enclosure installed though.

I downloaded the CAD files and noticed there is a model for mounting an E3D hotend in the assembly?
Is there any more information available on this because it looks like it might be unfinished or discontinued?

I believe those were Original UM mounts for the E3D that I was investigating as possible candidates for making work with the UM2.

There are a lot of UM2 E3D mounts out on thingiverse, so I'd just ignore the ones in the file. ;-)

Anyone have a US seller for a stepper motor with exact specs and plug connector as the one from China? My X axis stepper motor just dead in the middle of a project. URGH

Hoping to find a seller on Amazon or ebay that has one I can just plug and play with my current setup.

I'd just plan on cutting the 4 wires from the old motor and splicing them to the connector. Lot easier to find 40mm length w/bare wires.

You sure it's the motor and not the driver? Did you try moving the motor to another port and checking to see if it works? I've never killed a motor before... maybe too much current and got too hot and died?

This one: https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W

yeah, definitely the motor. I probably exaggerated on "dead". I took it out and it's locked up. Some shredded plastic looks to have gotten into the bearings and locked them up hard. I'm trying to clear it now but i'm thinking a "new" motor might be a better solution.

I wonder if the wire colors will match up when I replace with the amazon motor. hmmm...

Was anyone able to get their LED strips working when plugged into LED PWM? I get nothing.

Are you using 24v LEDs? Those PWM circuits are delicate little flowers and you can kill 'em so easily. I've done it. 12v LEDs will pop that circuit in a second.

The cooling fan plug (with PWM) is the same 24v output. You could test that output and control it via the cooling fan setting.

Only other thing I can think of is polarity. Maybe you have + and - flipped?

Jason- Sorry for all the questions. You know what, I usually end up figuring things out for myself. One really awesome thing I like about this printer is how easy it is to adjust bed height when printing first layer. It's almost impossible to do that on my Prusa i3. I figured out my Prusa all by myself and now have it printing amazingly well so eventually I'll get this one all tuned up. I'm working on posting pictures but the only camera I have is on my smartphone which hardly does this beautiful printer any justice. Thanks again!

Comments deleted.

Maybe I have the build plate adjustment screws too tight. Either way it looks like its a close fit when printing the first few layers. I will loosen the screws and re adjust the bed.

If anyone wants to keep the X and Y motors outside the printer footprint and direct-drive the axes (eliminates a pulley and belt), I've designed direct-drive motor mounts below. They're a little overbuilt, but still fairly compact.


Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion Clone Direct Drive Axes
by liu_d

Very cool. I'd be interested to see it in action!

It's coming along...I'm trying to figure out how to mount a standard MK2B heated bed but once that's solved the printer should come together pretty quickly.

Jason I was just browsing and noticed there is now a person or company selling printed parts for this build via ebay and etsy. Is this connected to you?

No. Hopefully they're offering good quality parts. :-)

Jason have you thought of installing a fan for cooling the main board? Has heat been an issue for you?

On my first build, I attached a fan to the printer floor to blow onto the board. I didn't see a difference between having it there, compared to another build that didn't have one.... it definitely won't hurt especially if the location of the printer isn't in a cool environment (garage, etc).

Hey I just wanted to share something. I purchased a UM2 set of smooth rods from Ali Express and unfortunately some of them were of unusable quality. The seller is shipping me replacements but I got impatient and ordered the 8mm and 6mm smooth rods from Misumi. I just received them today and they are absolutely amazing. This UM2 Clone is the second printer build for me and so far nothing compares to these linear rods from Misumi. I didn't order the 12mm rods because the ones from China are usable. The price difference really isn't that crazy either. If I could change one thing about what I have purchased for this build, I would source the rods from Misumi. The linear shafts are really one of the most important parts of the printer. I've said enough about the shafts. Awesome design Jason and thank you for trying to make this as affordable as you can without sacrifice to quality. I'm starting to realize just how much work it is to plan something like this from square one and hope I can design something of this magnitude some day.

have you finished your build. I too want to switch my rods out for misumi rods. what surface coating and material did you go with? their website is very indepth and takes some really good knowledge of metals to order.

have you finished your build. I too want to switch my rods out for misumi rods. what surface coating and material did you go with? their website is very indepth and takes some really good knowledge of metals to order.

Hey sorry I didn't see your comment sooner. I will get you the info

It looks like misumi website is down for maintenance. I know they were hardened and chromed. When the site is back up I will link you to the product page. I can't remember the size tolerance. The rods fit amazing though. Some of the cheaper rods I purchased were difficult to fit through the bearings, not these. Very precise. It was about $88 for all the smooth rods minus the 12mm.

That's with shipping

ok awesome. I have thin areas on first layer (its on all layers but really apparent on first). So thin that I can actually see through like glass. The areas are systematic and in a pattern so that leaves me to believe its the anomalies in the rods. I purchased them from Ali many months ago. Please link, id really appreciate that!

I'm not saying these will fix your problems you mentioned but here are the part numbers for the shafts I ordered. This does not include the 12mm shafts.
PSFJ6-320 (1)
PSFJ6-301 (1)
PSFJ8-348 (2)
PSFJ8-337 (2)
You can copy and paste these numbers in the search bar on the Misumi website.

it sounds like a couple things to fix first:

I have thin areas on first layer (its on all layers but really apparent on first). So thin that I can actually see through like glass

What height is your first layer? If I'm printing at .1mm, my first layer is set to .15 (or .2mm). It makes for a better base. But even at .1mm for a first layer height and proper extrusion, you should not have full transparency.

The areas are systematic and in a pattern

It sounds like you need to re-level your bed. If you're too low to the bed, your first layer will be too smashed to the glass causing the plastic to be pushed to the sides of the tip of the nozzle. This can cause those patterns in areas of your bed where the distance between bed and nozzle tip have a greater distance.

Those over-extrusion patterns, can be reduced/confirmed by lowering the extruder's material flow. Drop it 10%, 20%, etc and observe the pattern change. The real fix tho is leveling out the bed again.

I level the bed every print with copy paper, making sure that i can just barely feel any resistance. The first layer extrusion rate is set to 200% in simplify 3d and i have been printing 1.5mm layer height normally.

The thinning is apparent as a pattern. I bet if i took the circumfence measurement of the rod, and a measurement from the center of flat spot to flat spots in both directions, the measurements would all be the same. The spots are only about 1.5 inches wide and continue in a uniform thickness and linear pattern across the entire axis from one side of the build plate to the other when printing multiple small parts arranged to cover the heated bed.

A for sure test would be to switch all the y axis rods with the x axis rods and see if the pattern changes its linear direction of thin first layer. But i dont think this is possible due to one axis being longer than the other. The other way would be to just take several measurments of the rods diameter that are in question. Mark the areas on the rod that are out of tollerance or different than the norm. Then print and see if the thin spots are in areas on the bed that require the print head to align itself with the marked areas. of intollerance.

Ok. So I got my printer working, thanks for all the help, but I can't print below .2 mm layer height. I am able to print fine at .2mm but once I put it to .1mm layer height it all pretty much stops extruding after about 3 layers. Would this be a software problem or a problem with the motor itself. I have tried turning up the temperature and the material flow but that hasn't helped. I did also read somewhere that the power going to the motor may need adjusted. Any Haley would be appreciated.

Try slicing with the stand alone cura program. I was slicing with repetier host cure or slicer and I couldn't get below .2 but when I switched to the standalone program it could print at .06 with no problems.

My build is almost finished. Hey what is supposed to contact the z axis limit switch?

Assuming you have the official ultimaker bed assembly, get a M3 screw that you have leftover, I used a 30mm I believe. Using two M3 nuts, put the screw through the matching hole at the back of the bed plate and adjust the nuts until you get the right length of the screw to make contact with the limit switch. Good luck!

The hole in my build plate is way off from the location of the switch. I would have to either 1. add standoffs to switch and drill hole in acrylic floor for contact screw (not ideal) or 2. drill a new hole in the build plate. I think ill just drill a hole in the plate. lol

The problem here is that they changed the mounting holes on the aluminum platform so it could be generically used in all UM2 flavors (extended, regular, go, etc). The previous version had the correct hole.

I got one of the newer platform and just extended the slot in my acrylic floor to allow contact.

Ok thank you for the reply. I'm coming from a Prusa i3 so I'm trying to double check everything before I run it. I was looking at those two extra holes located at the back of build plate. So what stops the plate from crashing into the nozzle?

On first start up the bed plate will travel up towards the nozzle, but will stop about 2 inches away from it. It's a programmed distance. Will then have to follow the bed leveling steps to adjust this.

Thanks Scott! You've gotten in there quickly to help others a few times now. I appreciate it! :-)

Is there something that explains how to install the firmware to the UM2 Board? I'm Newish to this stuff and i'm not quite sure how to do that.

Last page of the documentation gives some high-level instructions... but may require you do a bit more googling.

Ok. You don't know of any videos to help out with it? I sort of understand what its asking but I just want to be completely sure.

So why are there 2 different part files for the Z gantry? One marked 339mm and the other same object?

What? You don't want to read thru hundreds of comments to find the answer? :-p

So the deal with the 2 versions is that when I originally designed this printer, I bought 13-inch 12mm rods from a reputable seller. 13 inches is 330.2mm. So about a 9mm difference. So the 339mm version is the official size used in the UM2. Lots of sellers sell this exact size. So I provided both versions.

Also, be aware of cheap linear rods. If the whole package of rods seems like a cheap/good price.... it probably isn't great quality as far as tolerances go. If you give a good scroll thru the comments you'll see varied results with the Chinese rod kits. It's the entire motion system of the printer... so put a good portion of your budget towards rods. If this is your first build, I hope this saves ya some headaches. :-)

Definitely going to spend extra on the rods. Get them from Musumi correct?

Also was wondering for the slider blocks what is best copper or brass sleeves?

Have you got any info on auto bed leveling for this? Noticed this is in the UM3. I bought/built a UM original plus. Still have not got the
bed leveling down.

I would definitely check out Misumi as an option, they cut to your required length.

I bought the brass sleeves/slider blocks as a single package off of eBay. They're the same specs and material as the official part.

As far as auto-level goes, no, I have not bothered with looking for a solution to this.... mainly because the 3-point leveling system on the UM2 is so easy... and w/o the extra electronics/hardware to auto-level. I level my bed once a month or so (or when I notice something is outta whack).... but once it's leveled, I rarely have to play with it. If you're finding that the 3 points shift or move (because they aren't tight), I would tighten all of them down a bit more (pulling the heated bed closer to the bed's platform and then run the bed-level routine again.

Anyone have directdrive dual extruder parts? Or it is possible? Rg.

Anything that would fit in an UM2, it would fit in this. So there should be options out there... just look for UM2 dual extrusion.

Ok. Thanks for answer. I've another question. Do you think can i use 8mm rod instead of 12mm for z axis?
I'll use this for heatbed rods. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673801
But it use lm8uu. Do you think 8mm rod is a problem? Or i have to edit that think for lm12uu? RG.

by Psyqjo

The bed plate, plus heater, glass, etc.... is heavy. The reason it's 12mm is because of the need to support all that weight w/o flexing. Could you do it with 8mm? Sure...but I'd hesitate. You'd also need a way to mount those linear bearing to the bed if you went with 8mm.

My printer started to fail prints..
The thin smooth rods move in place.
I had to put rubber bands so they won't move, but soon enough the rubber bands also failed.

What might be the cause for this?

Any more details? Or a video of the issue? Hard to say. Those 6mm rods require a bit of finesse in snapping them into place. It's important to rock the slider blocks so that they are completely upright and aligned with the rod. If you snap them in and the blocks are slightly angled, they will break free during movement.

Hold the 6mm rod in place while you turn the block so that it's completely upright and then snap them into place.

My 6mm rods slide right in. No tightness whatsoever.
I saw this thing: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-xy-bushing-slider-block
I think this will hold them tight. Or will it cause other problems?
I guess I'll have to check

Are the rods moving off of the slider blocks? Is that your problem

I wonder what the variance is on these. The ones I bought were from eBay and haven't had any issues. They are finicky but once they're popped in, they're pretty secure.

Where did you buy yours? Was it from the same seller as in the BOM?

ANOTHER thing to check is to use a pair of calipers and check the diameter of the 6mm rods. Obviously they should be 6mm. But if the tolerance is too great (smaller, it seems), you will have this issue of them not snapping in place.

The 2 biggest issues I've seen with other builders is cheap linear rods, both the 6mm and 8mm. I took the harder route on my builds. I had multiple 1 meter 8mm rods from an old Delta (Rostock) and cut them to size. They were very high quality rods that I had spent decent chunk of change on. Additionally, I did the same thing with the 6mm rods, cutting them to size.

I regret linking to those linear rod kits because it appears that the variance, from buyer-to-buyer is way out of spec.

That is really useful information.

I just bought a low quality slider blocks I guess.
Maybe printing them would solve this.
I will try the Slider Block Clip soon and see that solves this.

I'm guessing my rods are in poor quality as well.
The 8mm rods are actually no so straight, making the first layer vary in height, probably doing more havoc later in the print quality...

maybe you could try something like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1643315

Slider Block Clip

My build is coming right along. Hey what size m3 screw did you use for mounting extruder motor to its mount plate? The m3x30 are not working for me there. Also, what are the (6) m2.5x16 screws for in the BOM?

Man, it's been a while since I built my machines... so I don't remember exactly. I sort of have to trust the BOM/instructions. :-p So I can't say for sure. Are you using the extruder (from a YouMagine User) that I listed? I think I left it to the user to use that extruder's BOM for parts.

The 6x m2.5 screws are for the 3 limit switches. You can drill out the holes on the switches to make 3mm screws work... It's just easier to use 2.5mm, since they fit.

I just received my UM2 main board and controller today. The OLED screen is broken.... bummer

Hey Mike,

Did you ever get this resolved w/the seller? I had issues with one of the display boards and got it resolved w/the reseller... just takes patience and time. When I finally received the new one, it was perfect.

Hey Jason,
The seller sent me a new LCD. It should arrive in a day or so. I just received the smooth rods and just looking at them they seem fine. when I installed them though, 3 of the 8mm rods have a slight wobble when I spin them in the bearings. The seller said if I send him a picture, he will replace them. The only problem is you cannot see anything when they are just sitting there. The rest of the rods are actually really straight . The ends are ground a little funky but usable. All in all, I'm not terribly worried. I'm probably just going to buy new 8mm rods from Misumi. They ship amazingly fast, like 4 days. It's not that much more money either.

Hey Jason,
I've started assembly and I have one issue. When I tighten my pre-assembly nuts all the way down on the sides top brackets, the piece can still move around. The small raised piece on the printed bracket (that sits in the extrusion) is preventing the nut from making a snug fit. I purchased some pre-assembly nuts from a different source. They work on all the other parts.

Hmmm.... are you finding the raised portion to be too tall? Meaning that when you tighten down the part, the raised portion is hitting the pre-assembly nut, not allowing the bracket to fit snuggly with the extrusion?

I would sand down the raised portion if this is the case so that it allows the part to sit fully flat against the extrusion.

The only other variables would be the brand/dimensions of the extrusions you used (if not Misumi), the pre-assembly nuts, and the printed parts themselves...

Let me know if you remain stuck.

Hey one more thing Jason, do you know of a reliable source (in US) that will cut the acrylic side pieces and floor? I don't have access to any sort of cutting machine. I have future plans for a CNC router, but one thing at a time.



Hey Mike,

I'm not Jason, but I've made a couple of these printers (see the makes) using the Irishbeard enclosure panels as well as Jason's panels and have nothing but love for these guys: https://www.pololu.com/product/749

Good price, lots of colors and styles, arrives in just a few days with impeccable packaging. Can't recommend them highly enough.

Hey thanks for the reply. So I found one guy that will quote me and I sent him the .EPS files however, he said he can only open .DXF format. If Pololu will cut them without me needing to convert the files I will certainly go with them. I personally don't want the graphic on the side panels. So how would I go about getting the files I need? Do you by chance have the enclosure files in .DXF format with no graphic? BTW, awesome printers bro. You did an amazing job. It doesn't look like you have the graphic either? I can't wait to upload pics of mine. So far I have the frame assembled and I'm just waiting on the main board an smooth rods.

I have the .DXF files that I used for the latest white printer. I edited the files to delete the graphic. I also modified it to flip the door to hinge on the other side since I'm right handed. I don't want to step on Irishbeard's toes though, so I'll put the link to my dropbox file here now and delete it tomorrow.


EDIT: Oops! I keep crediting Irishbeard for the enclosure, when in fact it's by lions3! Irishbeard made the hinges and knob as well as a top enclosure which I also have for both printers but hardly ever use.

How much did one set of the acrylic pieces cost roughly? I'm right handed also too so thanks. I'm fairly new to the 3D printing scene. I have a Prusa i3 clone that I've spent the last three months dialing in. I'm hoping I will see some improvements when switching to this UM2 clone. lol this thing cost 3x as much as the Prusa i3. I'm getting really nice prints now with it, I just can't print fast.

I don't remember what the Pololu cost was, I suggest just getting a quote.

What I meant to say was, is the top enclosure necessary when printing ABS?

I print ABS just fine without the top enclosure. I haven't really even noticed a difference with or without it.

Got it, Thank you. Did you bother with the top piece at all? The files are named with a color, is that just for Pololu reference?

I do have the top enclosure, but I don't use it. The colors are just for my reference so I made sure to order the right ones.

That's pretty much what I ended up doing. The t-nuts I bought were roughly $20 for 100 on Amazon. They fit really nice but they must have a slightly different profile. Plus I'm thinking Slic3r had something to do with the printed parts being slightly out of spec. Hey I have to say this frame is really solid when assembled. I will post some pics when I'm finished. I'm still waiting on the electronics from overseas. I ended up buying 100 pieces of every needed bolt / nut. It only cost me about $6 per 100. I use a lot of the sizes on various projects. I ordered the smooth rods through the recommended vendor and I'm hoping they're straight. Thanks again.

can i use any parts off of my ultimaker original for this?

The motors, limit switches, pulleys and belts (if they're GT2)... but I think most of the gantry linear rods are not the same length.

You'd need to do a comparison of parts against the BOM.

At what speed can you print this and still get good quality print compared to the real UM2. Also there is UM2 clone on aliexpress that is cheaper than this build price.

Will this build print better and faster than the clones from aliexpress?

I have no idea on the clones on aliexpress.... as far as "better and faster" than the real UM2, they are comparable. With any "kit/self-built" machine, it comes down to how well it was put together and calibrated. I have a real UM2 and they both print identical. This took time to calibrate every aspect of both machines.

Don't get swayed by the hype of 100mm/s+ printing speeds.... Any decent printer can move at 100mm/s+, but plastic can only be extruded so quickly and even if you can extrude at those speeds, your next battle is the thermal dynamics of the plastic. It can only cool so quickly. Printing on top of a previous layer that hasn't had enough cooling time will produce bad prints.

Hope that sheds some light...

I ordered the parts on the BOM from RobotDigg. When it comes to the stepper motors I noticed the BOM shows two 40mm varieties. 0.9degree and 1.8degree. I ordered them both but the 0.9 is a 48mm not 40mm. Will this work?

The 1.8 motors are for X&Y. The UM2 extruder uses a .9degree motor. The 48mm will be fine as the extruder setup has the extruder motor on the back, with the length won't affect gantry movement.

I want to print PETG filament with this. Can it be done and can someone tell me what I need to buy/do to make it possible with this printer?

Machine is ready for it. I print at 240/245 and 80 on the bed.

Also, depending on the part, I use a glue stick on the bed (same for ABS)

Hi there,

I'm almost done with the printer.

Im using a smothieboard and I can not get a proper setup for the simplify3d. I can get a *.fff that will work. Can anybody share one with me?

Thank you very much

If your firmware is setup correctly (as far as pins/configuration), you should not need a special one. The UM2 config that's built into S3D works. What problems are you having?

I.m using smoothieboard and the simplify 3d. Not the ultimaker board. I was hoping somebody is using the smoothieboard and could help me. If I try to print anything the z is homing and not raising up to the max level next to the head

Well the point I'm making is that once a machine is configured correctly, any GCode that is supposed to move the machine up/down/left/right/backwards/forwards will do the same thing on any machine.

If you set up the board's configs the same as UM2, you should be OK. I think the issue is that the "machine settings" for UM2 in S3D is conflicting w/your configuration. Things to check: look at motor direction settings/etc in S3D for your machine config.

Ok, almost done with my build and I have run into what I believe to be a firmware issue, but am not 100% sure how to fix it. Printer is built and Matlin firmware is installed. The main problem is that when doing the initial bed leveling wizard, the print head moves to the front center of the bed instead of the back center. From videos I have watched the first part of the leveling process, the print head moves close to the back leveling screw. From what I figure, this is a problem with the firmware configuration. Any suggestions would help. Thank you in advance.

Yeah, so you have your Y motors backwards. The most simplest way to resolve this is to simply flip the plug, so if the colors were (RGBW) they would now be (WBGR) viewing the plug from the same angle. The problem is that the UM2 mainboard uses plugs that can't just be flipped. So instead of doing that, you just have to go into the firmware Configuration.h and find this:

#define INVERT_Y_DIR false (or true)

And flip it. Re-upload and things should be OK.

Ok so I changed #define INVERT_Y_DIR false to #define INVERT_Y_DIR true. When I did that upon starting the bed leveling the print head started moving to the front of the printer and spazzed out there because it couldn't find the limit switch. to fix that I had to change #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 to #define Y_HOME_DIR -1. Now everything seems to be in the correct orientation but it is not moving to the front of the print bed after doing the back adjustment location. I checked the bed size and it is showing #define X_MAX_POS 230 #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MAX_POS 224.5 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MAX_POS 230 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 (sorry not sure how to do the format you did jason. Here is a short video of how it is work now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dWxwAUym7A&feature=youtu.be

It looks like the homing is correct, going to the back left corner, hitting both X/Y limit switches. You are correct that the Y_HOME_DIR is reversed. I made the assumption you took the settings from the UM2 Marlin Configuration.

I would go download the UM2 Marlin firmware from their github and check your motor/direction settings match.

Oh. I may have mixed you up w/someone else... but thought you were using the stock Marlin firmware and adjusting to run against UM setup.

The issues could be a mix of motors wired backwards, configs w/ flipped settings, etc.... Here's what I would do.... Connect to the printer w/Repetier/Simplify3D/etc so that you can control the printer.

  • Home the Printer
  • Use software to move the printer. Make sure you can move forward/backwards/left/right....

If all that works as expected, then move on to determine the issue around bed leveling. I'm curious if you're able to move the head forward to the front of the printer after homing.

Ok. Thanks for the help. I will try that out and let you know what happens.

Comments deleted.

Any issues with grounding or static or did you somehow ground the frame as well as the electronics?

No active grounding by wire. The 24v power adapter is grounded. The other end runs 2 pairs of 24v leads to a 4-pin connector, which plugs in directly to the mainboard. The mainboard is shielded by a 3d mount so it doesn't touch the extrusions. Rubber feet on the bottom.

I haven't had any issues. I'm not sure if you're more concerned with USB comm issues... if that's the case, I wouldn't be able to say, as I always print from SD card.


Does any one know what is the build volume of this printer?

It's the same as the original UM2

OK. I am about 2 steps away from having this thing completely done. I am running into 1 problem that hopefully someone can help with. During the initial setup (where it levels your bed) The Z axis works fine, but the X&Y axis doesn't move. They just kind of shake back and forth like something is preventing them from moving. With everything turned off the X&Y move freely and seem to do it pretty smooth, but during the setup the motors just kind of spaz out. Any Ideas? I have check to make sure that everything is lined up correctly and that there isn't anything grinding or rubbing from what I can see.

Sounds like a wiring or driver issue.

Make sure the wire-pairs (4 wires in 2 pairs) are correct. Also make sure the voltage on the drivers isn't too high (or low).

I don't remember if you mentioned what board you're using, but if you customized something to work with the um2 Marlin firmware, you might have not set some pins correctly.

Hope that helps.

Thank you Jason. That did help. One wire of one motor can slightly loose, not even noticeable by the naked eye. It wasn't until I tried moving the wires around a bit that it fell out enough to notice. (Face Palm)

Never mind I figured it out! Thanks. I have to say I cant wait to get this thing going. I don't own an Ultimaker, I'm printing all the parts via my Prusa i3. I'm still learning but my prints have really improved. Thanks for sharing your awesome creation jason.


So there are a lot of comments here and I may have missed someone asking the same question, so if I did I do apologize. I have my printer fully assembled in what I believe to be working order. I am currently trying to install Marlin per these instructions http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin#Configuring_and_compilation. When I click the upload at the end it says that there was an error while uploading the sketch. Any advice would be appreciated. Also when first powering on my printer the bed and print head both start heating up and the xy axis start moving in small increments like its printing something. Did anyone else have this happen?

possible you need to alter your Arduino settings. Look at my instructions. It has a section for fixing this.

I did manage to get it to work by changing the Arduino settings. Thank you for your help.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of printing all the parts for a 1.75mm setup. I'm not seeing everything needed for the extruder, or am I missing something? I've printed the filament guide and extruder body but I'm missing the tension arm.



Check out the instructions. There are links to the other extruder parts.

Where can i get the cover for the buidltable?

It comes w/the heated bed kit. You can find a user-created one on thingiverse... or laser-cut your own... the file is in Ultimaker's github.

Did you try to setup this printer using regular Marlin, not Ultimaker2Marlin? I want to implement bed autoleveling using square proximity sensor from Omron and i wonder if it buildable.

You can. Just need to know how to change configurations.

I know how to change configurations of course, but one thing confuses me much, and i still searching for an answer. There are 3 kinds of UM boards in Boards.h and which one is for UM2 board. And display also is a question.

Hey man, had a busy week and forgot to circle around to your reply. If you're using the board from the BOM, you'll want to use this one:

#define BOARD_ULTIMAIN_2        72


Comments deleted.

Is it normal that the stepper motors are getting hot ?
This is my first time making a 3d printen so i don't know this

Thank you

Yeah, they'll get pretty hot. So this is normal... to a point. They can get TOO hot and then you'll start experiencing missed steps on the motor.

If you're using the Ultimaker mainboard (as opposed to a RAMPS-type board), you can adjust the milliamps for each stepper (X,Y,Z,E) via software (either thru the LED controller or thru a computer connection sending G-code commands).

The default for UM2 is 1300ma for X, Y, & Z. Depending on the motors you chose, you may need to turn this down. 1300ma is the max value. This drives the motors harder hence more heat. I run my UM2 clones at 1300 with the motors in the BOM.

What are the materials used for the production of, and you can use other materials and what I can change the parts inside the printer to be able to use other materials

and How much production volume

If I want to make this printer with a differente bed size (200x300 or 300x300), how can I calculate the correct endless belt size?

Thank you!

But now is everything fine. watch my website for 3d print service


I can advise you.. don't buy Electronic parts from aliexpres. My mainboard crashes 3 times so spende 3x 100 Euro in board then my ultiboard crashes and then the display.. i got original now. No more problems.. original board is 355 Euro.. its expensive. But it saves you money

The boards you buy from AliExpress are the same boards. They are ALL made in China. The problem comes down to quality control. I had a bad display controller during the build of my second printer. I contacted the seller, provided some video of what was happening. I shipped it back (Yeah, it cost me $14).... but after they received it, they sent out a replacement for free. It came down to having to wait...

I have been printing with the AliExpress bought boards since I built these printers (several months to a year) without any issues.

It can be frustrating to deal w/RMA issues with communication boundaries, waiting for overseas shipments, etc.... but if you're patient, all have been very receptive to fixing issues when you bring it up w/them.

my bad board got rejected at china customs sent back to my bought from global warehouse they have bad customer service no refund

I actually bought one of those when I was experimenting with different ideas for mounting an E3D. The quality of the aluminum mount was great... but the E3D clone wasn't anywhere near the quality of an official E3D.

The issue I found w/the mount was that it's really designed for the UM, not the UM2. The UM's X/Y gantry is flipped from the UM2, so you have to mount it sideways. This means the fan mounts for the left/right cooling fans actually have to mount towards the front/back...and there isn't room for that on the back side w/the Z-motor/lead screw.

So I'd be curious how you mounted cooling fans :-) I ultimately mounted the E3D with my direct-drive design.

I have a couple of questions about robotdigg:

I've bought bearings, motors, belts, etc from there w/o issue. The only weird thing is the way you pay (unless they changed it).... you essentially add things to your cart, get a total, and then email them to arrange payment. They were responsive in emails and things shipped w/o issue.

The UM2 board is going to be the same hardware regardless of where you buy it from. It just comes down to quality control (e.g. Hopefully they test the board before they sent it to you).

hey guys sorry for all the questions, mostly got it built now :)!

having a small issue with the z axis limit switch though, with the bed all the way down and a m3x20mm screw, won't activate the switch! do i need to put a longer one in or have i done something wrong?

Scrap that! Had a moment of madness last night (beer was involved) I'd put an m3 X 18 in lol

The bed when activated though is near on flush with the extrusion is that correct?

Yes. The bottom aluminum plate will sit roughly flush with the extrusion. Ultimaker modified their bed platform so that it works with their full line of UM2 versions now, so some of the screw holes were moved/changed.... So, for instance, on my last build, I had to be a futzing with the screw length and offset to get it to align with the limit switch. I did this by putting the screw in upside down so the wider head touched the limit switch, allowing for it to be offset a tad.

I'm having this weird dragging sound on non-print movements. Does anyone knows what can cause this? It happens only when printing, but doesn't when moving one axis at a time. Also, it doesn't happen when I move the printing head with my hands diagonally. I tried lowering the max acceleration from 9000 to 8000, that didn't help. It doesn't skips steps or anything, it actually prints pretty great! Any experience with this? Just to show you, I uploaded a video- https://youtu.be/o8iA-LXacGk it happens when moving from the right Marvin to the middle on 1:02

Okay I think I resolved this issue, it was probably misaligned pulley dragging on the belt.

Hey, glad you found it. Things sound pretty quiet outside of that clunk. :-)

Curious tho... why printing on glass w/painter's tape? Assuming that is PLA, just heat the bed to 60 and PLA sticks great. After the bed cools, the object pop right off w/a nice glassy finish on the bottom.

With PETG and ABS, I use an elmer's glue stick at 80c, 100c respectively.

Which firmware do you use? can i have a link? Because i use Ultimaker2Marlin and the extruder motor is reversed. PLEASE HELP ME :(

Hey Xander.... so the issue is very easily resolved in the firmware. Depending on the axis, you will change one of these values:

#define INVERT_X_DIR
#define INVERT_Y_DIR
#define INVERT_Z_DIR

If they are set to TRUE, change it to FALSE and vice versa. The setting is dependent upon how the 4 motor wires are connected. So you connected them backwards... but it doesn't matter... just change the true/false value and re-upload the firmware.

You can upload here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

Also, read the last page of my google docs instructions... it explains what ya need to upload the firmware.

For the love of everything holy, DO NOT order your parts through Misumi. They are EXTREMELY business oriented and buying as an individual consumer is an AWFUL experience. Shipping fees are incredibly steep if you're hoping to receive your parts in a reasonable amount of time. These fees are not presented to you as a new customer. Misumi's excuse, "well we only show those fees to someone who has an account with us". I ended up paying $80 in shipping fees for an $11 set of beams.

But there is good news. I found an alternative in a company called OpenBuilds. They're focused on hobbyists and have everything you need at reasonable prices. After ordering from Misumi, I felt like an idiot when I found OpenBuilds. And here's the worst (or best) part... their product is actually BETTER than what I got from Misumi. So let this be a cautionary tale to future builders. Check out OpenBuilds.com and openbuildspartstore.com before you decide to build this. I'm not getting a commission and I don't work for them, I just think they're awesome.

Misaim may not be the lowest cost but I found them to have high quality and accuracy. My linear bearings were exact and strong where the alixexprss versions have bent already...

Your best bet is to get the full kit.. will save you $ in the end unless your looking to hack.. which is part of the fun...

When you order from china direct, always get extras since well, you get what you pay for. :)

What country are you in? Misumi USA has been very fast/cheap. I have made 4 separate orders over the last couple years, shipping both to my work and home and have had no issues.

The extrusions for this printer cost about $30 and another $10 to ship to Texas. If openbuilds works for ya, great.... but the experience from one country may not be the same for others. I have no relation to Misumi USA, but my experiences have been nothing but great and very reasonably priced.

hey guys anyone in UK found a motor set for this yet? i am struggling massively to find any motors at all and don't want to put something in that'll eventually cook the board.


I bought my motors (about 6 in total) at RobotDig and have had no issues. I'm not promoting this site, just stating a fact that "cheap motors" are rarely the issue in burn-outs on boards... usually "User Error" :-) And sometimes bad/cheap electronics (drivers).

thanks bud i managed to source out a set of OEM UM2 motors randomly last night in my search, bit steep on pricing but after my velleman vertex (FYI: never buy one of those!) i was fed up with stepper drivers going bang and the machine being OOO instead of running due to cheap parts!

my build is coming together like a dream jasonatepaint! i still cannot thank you enough for the design! when i found this i was discussing with my partner about buying a UM2 outright, but this has saved me a lot of £££! when its complete ill get it posted up!

Why would you cook the motherboard? I don't understand your comment.

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For those how have built this, have you had problems with the fans from the motherboard. I have tried two separate boards and multiple fans and the cooling fans just won't work. Could someone post pics or something of wiring or maybe some advice?

A couple things....

  • The PSU is supplying 24v.
  • The Fans are 12V, wired in series (to split the 24v and divides it among both fan)
  • The PWM circuit is VERY delicate. If you wrongly wire 12V fans in parallel, you will kill the PWM circuit.
  • Not all fans are created equal. Cheap fans will not work properly.

The BOM has fans that are listed for each part. Don't cheap out on fans... yes, good ones are expensive...but they work and will limit your frustrations. I've found that cheaper fans will not properly split the voltage, causing one fan to run at 14v+ and the other only at 6v+, causing one fan to spin faster and the other to not spin at all... Also, cheaper fans don't seem to work well w/PWM... so you never have 0-100% spin control on the fan.

Hope that helps.

Hi, that board output says Fan 5V. Which I connected my 5V fans to this output, not getting them to work, I mistakenly connected them to the PWM fan output. Some smoke came out of them and now I can see a resistor called R43 burned. Any chance you can spread light on what should I do, as the information is not quite clear.

If you are comfortable with soldering, that's a pretty easy fix.

Sorry for the delay. I think when I heard "fans" (plural), that you were referring to the dual 12v fans that are used to cool the object being printed. The single 5v 25mm fan (for the stock setup) is definitely 5v and is connected to the center of the mainboard (illustrated in the UM2 assembly guide).

You definitely blew out your PWM circuit for the cooling fans. This means the output will not vary and will be stuck on at 19v+, usually. I know, because I've blown out a board too. To fix this, in short (you'll have to google -- or check lower in the comments where I explained this), you'll change your cooling fan PIN in the firmware to the left over hotend heater port pin.

what limit switches are people using on these? I'm currently looking for some based in UK and don't really want to order from china

Any mechanical limit switch can work. The X/Y gantry have a longer metal arm on them, to allow the switch to be placed out of the way but have the gantry touch the switch arm for limiting.

Wire them for Normally Open if using the default fimware configuration.

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firmware is the one used on the ultimaker 2 right?

Hi, I have no idea how to use this. Has anyone that used it before help me. I'm wondeering if i could do it this way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_6i7aNibAA. Thanks

No, you'll use the Arduino IDE to install the firmware to the controller. Check out the last page of my instructions (google doc) that gives a bit of detail as to what you need to do to compile/upload the firmware. It's not step-by-step, so you'll have to do a bit of googling if you get stuck.

Do I really need a heatbed only for PLA prints?

If you do the painters tape/hairspray/etc hack, you can get away w/o heat... but only with PLA. And even then, it has it's caveats, as far as what you can reliably print w/success (e.g. prints w/ minimal contact on the surface).

After spending years 3D printing, I find there are certain things you don't skimp on... The hot-end is #1 and a heated bed w/a (borosilicate) glass surface is 2nd. While the motion hardware is important, the core function of this machine is to print... and those are the key components to printing.

The heat does help when printing w/PLA by slowing the shrinkage. Additionally, you get a beautiful glass finish on the bottom of your print, which after the bed cools, just pops off the bed. After years with kapton tape, painters tape, and hairspray... nothing beats a heated glass bed.

jasonatepaint, any chance of getting the top and bottom brackets to take a M6 bolt? holes are too small and i can't seem to adjust the file to take the bolt, internal thread of my extrusion will only take m6

The file is not parametric, so you would have to update each part w/6mm holes.... OR print with decent infill (50%) and additional shells and then drill the holes out.

Cheers pal, managed to make up a modified version to take bigger bolts, will post them up when I'm back in office,

Built the cabinet today, Jason, this was a pleasure to build, it's a fantastic piece of work and thank you for sharing it!

After I have this one running I'll most likely use the files to make a larger version with a 18"x18" build space! And strip my old machine for parts! Lol

Nice! Thanks :-) And I know what ya mean about stripping down an old machine to build a bigger/better one. My UM2 clones both have parts from my older printers. :-)

Cool man :),

I've got a vertex at the minute, it's a horrid machine, knocks a lot, hotends rubbish etc, so going to butcher the board and electronics, buy a 18"x18" bed and basically build up a cabinet with these parts to house it! New rods/belts etc it'll be a hybrid monster lol!

I have two of these being built atm, as a friend who prints hasn't a large enough build space on his current machine to print the z axis parts and tray etc (using a fabrikator)

I believe he's going to install a diamond triple hotend! I shall make sure he posts up on what he did and how so the community know! Right I'll try and get those parts posted up now!

Well it's a difference of 1mm in the gap of the slot. The 5mm version has a bit more material, however, I doubt this will make any difference on these short lengths.

I'd go for the 5mm.. the t-nuts will be smaller (they're heavier than the aluminum extrusions). Additionally, if you can, go for the 5mm t-nuts with 3mm threaded holes. This way you can use 3mm screws instead of 5mm. They're lighter, cheaper, and are just as strong in this application.

Where are the limit switches mounted, Thanks

All of your questions can be answered with a little bit more reading. :-) It's all in the instructions.

any preference on limit switches? i have a choice of quite a few and can't decide which ones will be the best for it,

also the motor pulleys are they defy 20tooth 5mm bore? as the UM2 packs come with 16tooth 5mm bores

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It's exactly the same as the Ultimaker 2.

Hello jasonatepaint, I am using E3D V6 now for replacing the original hotend. I connect the heatsink fan to 19-24V connector on the main board and the fan is always on. I wonder if there is any way you know that I can control this fan like before (only turn on when the nozzle is hot). Thanks.

Yes you can... but with a caveat. If you're not planning on using 2 hotend/extruders, you can use the second hotend 24v output (Heater 1), which uses PWM too.

Edit the firmware file: pins.h. Line 1187, change from

#define HEATER_1_PIN 3


#define HEATER_1_PIN -1

Next, go into Configuration_adv.h. Line 80, change from

#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1



Also in Configuration_adv.h, you can change the following

#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED   255  // == full speed

Save and upload to the board. Your hotend fan will work w/PWM off the 2nd hotend output and will turn on/off at what ever temperature you set for EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE

Hey jasonatepaint, I'm having issues with the printhead fans as well. They attempt to come on after the first layer. I mean they'll both spin for a split second and that's it. This will continue to happen throughout printing. I'm using these fans...http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/MC30101VX-E01U-A99/259-1661-ND/4835586

This is how its wired up: http://tinypic.com?ref=2sa1k0h


I also disconnected each fan and spun them up with a 9V battery so I know they are good. Also using my DVOM I measured 24V at the connector at the printhead. Any suggestions?

UPDATE: pulled out my bench power supply, set it up for 24V. Still the fan wouldn't go. I had a spare printhead harness, tried it. no difference. Tried swapping the polarity of the fans. Nothing. I can hear when power is applied because the fans make a noise but they won't come on full. Like I mentioned before, they come on randomly for a split second. New fans on order!!

Unless someone has any other suggestions.

Your wiring looks correct, run in a series where, in theory, the 24 volts are spread evenly across the 2x 12v fans.... however that's not always the case. I can't say for certain with that particular fan, but what I've found is that it's usually 1 of 2 things:

1) The fans don't support PWM via it's power source. You may be able to test this is the control panel. Go to the advanced screen and turn the fans on to 100%. Does it work? What about when you turn them down to 50%, 25%, etc.

2) Depending upon the type of controller electronics the fan uses, that 24v isn't split evenly and causes one fan to work mostly properly, but the other just sputters and stops. This can be tested the voltage at the second fan that feeds back to the negative lead.

Thanks for the reply Jasonatepaint. So I go the new fans (original Ultimakers ones) and the results were the same. Now I was doubting my power supply so instead I put two 9V batteries together (18V) to see if the fans would power up. The SUNON fans did not work when I tried this method. Okay crappy fans. Then I powered up the Ulitmaker fans and they were on.

Reinstalled the connector to the board. Powered up everything. I'm using TinkerGnome firmware. So I tested from the control panel. Nothing!! :( So the circuit is fried somehow, not sure exactly why.

Is the method described above reassigning HEATER1 a fix to allow the printhead fans to work?(not the 5V hotend) I can do this with TInkerGnome? If not, a board it is.

Well, I thought I'd update my progress with my non-working printhead fans. I performed some ohm tests on T1 transistor, compared to T2. I found notable differences and decided to change out the suspect transistor. T1 transistor is part of the circuit that feeds FAN PWM. Those transistors are tiny, super tiny but I managed to get a new one soldered in. I also swapped out the original Sunon fans for original Ultimaker fans. I suspect the Sunon fans burnt up the transistor.

Got everything reinstalled and fired up the printer. Went into advanced settings to test the fans. Success!! Happy to say for a few bucks and a steady hand all it working properly again.

Nice! I don't have the patience to try to replace SMD components, so I'm impressed :-p

Thats a good idea. Thanks alot man. I think I could also just buy another 5V fan to replace it. As long as it can cool down fast enough.

My rods are bended. Is it possible to use stainles steel rods ? Or do they have to much resistance ?

Quite a few people have posted about their linear rod woes. It seems to come down to quality control issues from the manufacturer... and the resellers are just buying in bulk and reselling w/o any verification. Sadly though, this is a "you get what you pay for" scenario. There's a reason why the aliexpress ones are a few dollars each as opposed to $10-20 each if you buy from a quality manufacturer.

Another option is to buy quality rods in longer length and cut them yourself. For my 2 builds, I had quality 8mm rods from a delta printer breakdown. So I used a 3D printed jig to cut 6 and 8mm rods with a Dremel Max. This has been very successful route for me. The seller VXB.com is a good US seller. I use their 13" (330mm) 12mm rods. I have also been successful with buying longer length of 6mm on eBay (from a US seller) and cutting to size. I have purchased twice from the same reseller w/great results. I'll have to go thru some old emails to find the name/link, so let me if you want it.

I'd stick with the hardened and chromed rods. After hundreds, or even thousands of hours printing, and possibly millions of separate movements I would be worried about anything else holding up. I actually had to get two rods replaced because they were bent and the aliexpress seller was quick to send me new ones. Since they aren't too expensive, and really are the heart of the machine, I ended up ordering three complete sets and and using the straightest of the bunch. Now I have spares. Not that I recommend doing that for everything, it's just what I did.

I will try it with stainless steel rods from my work. The alibaba rods are so worse

I had to replace one of the 6mm rod from Aliexpress becuase it was stuck in LM6UU bearing. I paid another $30 to get just one rod from Misumi. One of the 8mm rod is bent as well but it works okay so I left it along.

I don't want to sound like a troll or an advertising shill, but there's a great company Openbuildspartstore.com that has everything you could possibly need to build this and much more. I felt like a dope when I found them since they are so awesome. Aluminum extrusions, motors, belts, all geared toward hobbyists and at very reasonable prices. I've had bad experiences with Ali... and Misumi in the past and just wanted to save someone else some trouble.

Just took a look and found no linear rods.

I have a question.
My rods are moving left and right when motors are moving.
they are falling out of the bearings.
How can i fix this?
and i have another question.
My rods are going up and down while moving, but the rods are straight.
I think my pullys are not straight.
How can i fix this?


The bearings should have the 8mm spacers (varied lengths, depending on axis). Pushed against those spacers are the outer bearing and the pulleys. The pulleys should be tightened against the spacers/bearing, locking the rods in place. This must be down on all 8 corners (X + Y).

Rods going up and down? On the Z-axis? This can happen if you've widened the holes that the 12mm rods fit into on the top/bottom. I had this problem on one of my builds after making the diameter too big. Gorilla glue (clear) is great stuff. It foams and expands as it cures. It's also completely removable if you need to break down the machine. A few drops in the holes of the Z top/bottom gantry parts will keep them from sliding/moving.

No the rod for left and right. While moving its going up and down

I think one of my rod is doing the same, but it does not seem to affect the print.

It you sure ? The heater is then absolutely not exactly making you Gets Poor print quality ?

The heater? I meant one of my rods is moving up and down slightly.

Yes but the heater is connected with it, with the 6mm rod my heater is also moving up and down

Oh, yes, if it is that bad. Mine seems to be okay. If your's is bent that much then I suggest you to get a new one.

Shoot some video and stick it up on Youtube or somewhere, so I can help diagnose. Hard to really know w/o seeing it in action.

in regards to the extrusion the 2020 profile i can find has a 5mm slot not a 6mm will this cause problems or does it have to be 6mm?

I'm having a nightmare sourcing out this stuff for a reasonable prince with a cut in UK

also with the gantries, I'm presuming the 339mm v2 top and bottom Z are if your Z rods are longer? current me if I'm wrong before i print the wrong ones?

The slot should not make a difference at all. The "connector" parts have a slot in them to fit in extrusion slot. However, a 1mm difference should not cause any headaches.

As far as the 330 vs 339mm... comes down to which 12mm rods you get. When I built my machines, I had a lot of 8mm (x/y gantry) linear rods, so I opted to not buy any of the "UM2 rod kits" and instead bought the 12mm rods from a US distributor as 13 inch long (330mm). The 339mm version was added later to support people buying the official UM2 length. The overall Z-length print area doesn't change with either option.

nice one pal :) great response all things answered, been printing parts all week, time to start ordering :D

had a good nose through all the files already this is a amazing 1:1 clone its going to save me some pennies and give a great project!

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Hello finely got a board from robotdigg i hooked the 2-12 volt fans up to fan pwm next to led on ultimaker2 board the fan stays on full speed i cant control the speed i tryed in software simplified3d and in the LED does that mean its a bad board ?
i planned on using the e3d v6 bowden setup i need just 1 fan to run when i turn machine on to cool the hotend the 5 volt fan is to small i believe?
also has anyone tryed the bulldog lite as a bowden setup on ultimaker 2?

A couple things.... The output PSU is 24v. The 2x12v fans needs to be wired in series, so that the 24v power is split between the 2 fans.

If you wired them in parallel and hooked them up to the board and turned it on, you killed the PWM circuit for that output port. IF you also tried the same setup on the LED output port, you also killed that PWM circuit. Bad news is that there is no way to fix this. Once they're "dead", They will only output a fixed voltage and can no longer be controlled via software/controller. :(

If that happened, don't feel TOO bad. I've done it myself. I resolved the issue on one printer by changing the firmware to use the secondary hotend output to run my fans.

There is a 5v output port in the center of the board. The important part here is that you get a fan that pushes a ton of air. The BOM mentions a CFM airflow... make sure the fan you buy is at least as many CFM. Cheap fans here are NOT an option.

Hope that helps!

that was a typo i ment 2- 24 volt fans,I bought the 24 volt e3d,v6 i was thinking about that 2 -12volts but thought it was a bad risk glad i didnt use 12 volt fans I had alot of bad experience doing this printer. you did a great job with everything. 1 was buying the 1st motherboard from china as i posted earlier i bought from global wholesale thru,aliexpress the motherboard just sparked and bent capacitors they sent the board in a vanilla envelope with little bubble wrap,this one is from robotdigg next time ill go directly to ultimaker and pay alot more then hopefully no more headaches so if my pwm circuit is bad is it hard to edit firmware to use the 2nd hotend
Thanks for the help i need to start reading my questions after i type before pressing enter
Thank you

Is it possible to use the UM2 power brick instead

2x24v is not correct either. The spec calls for 2x12v fans, run in series (not parallel). It is possible that running 2x24v fans in parallel, you drew twice as many amps then was expected and it blew out the PWM. Buying the board direct from UM won't protect against bad wiring unfortunately. The PWM circuit is sensitive to over amps being pulled through it. The UM forums have plenty of discussions about this.

I've purchased a board from Global Wholesale and didn't have issues, however I believe my board was shipped in a thin box that was then put inside a vanilla envelope. The "U-Maker" store on Aliexpress has been good to deal with. I had a faulty controller and had a new one shipped by them after determining it was bad. Granted, it requires a bit of patience and time for shipping back to them. :-)

Hello sorry to bug you again i tryed searching ultimaker forums and found nothing do you have any bookmarks for bad pwm circuits or the one you went to

This is awesome. I'm going to eventually build this.

Could you also tell what you use to secure the bowden tube at the printhead side? It is not the standard UM2 bowden tube fitting with horseshoe clamp?

Check out the BOM under UM2 Print Head. They're called Bowden Couplings.

Thanks. As soon as I have some free time, I'll update.

How noisy is this setup? Does anyone have any videos of it on setup and first layer?

Just getting ready to build one in UK :)

It's very quiet. One of the quietest printers I've ever seen. I wouldn't be able to sleep with it in the same room, but it's not going to wake up the whole house when it's running in another room.