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Allted

-OLD- Mostly Printed CNC -Part- Solderless Stepper Mount

by Allted May 12, 2015
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Just wanted to check before I printed. These will not work with the current version of the motor mount (C-RollerMount)? New version seems to be one part now.

nope, I'll Change the name right now.

Thanks for the quick reply. Can't wait to get everything printed and setup.

Buttonhead hex screws would fit, right?

Amazing work! Definitely on my todo list. Does anyone know how big we can make this based on the rigidity of the conduit? I dream of a machine that can do a 4x8' sheet, but they are always way out of reach.

Thanks.

This comes up every week. As far as I know no one has actually tried it. But it depends on a sheet of what? Metal, no way. Wood, laser, hd foam, sure.

I suggest supports under the outer rails at the halfway point and it should be fine.

Sorry, I did look before posting, and couldn't find a similar question. My goal is being able to handle a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" baltic birch plywood. Would supports get in the way of the axis that rides on the rail?

No big deal.

The supports do not get in the way of the outer rails at all. left them open for just this reason.

Hi everyone! can i use this part for the 25mm conduit? thanks!

Yup, one of the few parts that is the same for both versions.

anyone tried with M4 x 20 or so screws... M3.5 are not really easy to get in my country. I am actually to scared to try ... ;)

M4 will probably work but will definitely crack this. If you can't get the M3.5 can you get 6/32? you could also drill these out a tiny bit to work with the M4. I could make a special file for you but it wouldn't leave much material around the holes, so this would be a last resort.

Thanks! Drilling them out might be not to easy ... the bits are either 3 or 4... I'll try to get 6/32's first. I'll let you know.

btw: sorry. What's the length you are using on those? 20 mm?

Anything over 8mm or 5/16ths will work, the shorter the better.

This looks cool. I see the metal on the wire shows some on this side. What would it be like to add some extra height around the outside of those holes on this end to cover the bare wire, sort of like a hollow pipe?

Here is an image and stl file link to show what I mean.

http://www.zewind.com/Solderless_Roller_Motor_MountWithWireCovers.jpg

You might have to right click & save target as to get the stl file
http://www.zewind.com/solderless_Roller_Motor_MountWithWireCovers.stl

Looks good, please post it on here for everyone to use.

If you connect those circles somehow and also connect it to the rib on the mount, keep everything the same height it will print better. No retraction boogers.

Okay, I will work on that. I will have to trace your stl file in Draftsight & draw the 3d model of this in openscad as that is the workflow that works best for me with the software I have. I should be able to finish it while printing the other parts.

Awesome idea, but I see not conduit caps..lol Fast and easy way to swap steppers, brilliant.
BTW are these thicker? I get quite a bit of movement on mine when I do use homing and the switch taps the back of the stepper.

I need to print some caps for sure, but I'm out of red filament. They need to match.

Same thickness. If yours are bending, did you print them with 75% infill or more and 3 perimeters? If your belts are too tight it could put unnecessary stress on them, or the bolts might be a bit loose.
Best solution...mill some new ones out of aluminum, or even wood (then you can put in these new features). Got a mill might as well use it, right?

did you make DXF's for the mounts?

Dxf only works for 2D parts. You would want to make dxf's of the regular mounts. And if you did waterjet or laser cut them use the right thickness material and you will need another set of bearing spacers.

I thought the ridge was just to add some strength to the part, assumed it could be flat plate.
I haven't put mine together yet so I guess the bearing spacers will make sense then.

This part also has the side holes for the wires. If you are going to do a flat cut use the original parts for a better profile.

This is awesome, I did my best to make it look decent with heat shrink and a little electrical tape but this is way better! Dont think ill swap out until its 100% necessary (or I do another build but for those that want to and those just building this is fantastic.

That seems to have eliminated the need for the wiring guide, pretty slick man :-)
Not like it's too difficult to to reprint the motor mounts.

I could never get the heatshrink to look very good on the side that all 3 wires came together, so this was born. Need to find some screws that look better but I'm really happy with this part. Trying to optimise some things so I can sell some full machines to fund the next project...

For already printed parts, maybe make one that can utilize the upper motor mounts and mount on top?
I'm working on another mangled version of this. Most of the additional remixes will just end up integrated into the final design i'd imagine.

Found a way to legally (for the most part) get SW for $20 with a veterans help :-).

What is the additional cost (if any) and are these avail for both NEMA14 and 23 mounts?

14 are probably too weak, 23 are way too big. I could make them but I think most would agree 23's are complete overkill. A bridgeport knee mill axis can be run with a single 23. Putting 2 on here is crazy.