Buckle Box, Printable In One Piece

by anewsome May 1, 2013
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Which parameter adjusts the length of the latch? It's too short to close with

$fn = 100
width = 49
depth = 86
height = 10
wallThickness = 2
hingeOuter = 6
hingeInner = 3
hingeInnerSlop = .4
hingeFingerSlop = .4
fingerSize = 6.8
latchWidth = 15

Really loved your design and easy-to-read openscad code. I designed a very similar one, changed the code a bit. It's a bit more parametrize-able and I rounded the edges. Thanks.

I built this, and it is awesome! ONE IMPORTANT NOTE: The dimensions are outside dimensions, so subtract wall thicknesses to get your inside dimensions. Also, height is per-side, so if you, say, wanted a 15mm ID box, and you entered 15 for height, you have a 30mm OD box (ask me how I know).
Now, off to print a slightly larger and significantly shorter box... :)

this looks awsom but can you make the top and bottom separate with just holes for the hinge pin i nead to make a extremely large case that is larger than the print size of the bed but with individual parts it will fit

i am able to change the modules perimiters with rem // to print only the top and bottom but i do not understand openscad enough to change the hings pins to holes for a seperate hinge pin sure in a year or 2 i would be able to but i have no interest in learing openscad as there are way better cad programs and everything that is created using openscad has errors in the final stl file most can be fixed but some are so bad that they can not be fixed in any program and the language sintex is so differant from any other programing lanuage that i can just not adjust to learning it

idealy placing options for printing seperatly would be the proper way to go
Thanks Cindy

La he escalado a un 50% y funciona igualmente ! Muy buen resultado. Gracias

The latch on this box was made too short to close. My parameters were:

$fn = 100;
width = 70;
depth = 70;
height = 10;
wallThickness = 3;
hingeOuter = 7;
hingeInner = 3;
hingeInnerSlop = .5;
hingeFingerSlop = .4;
fingerLength = hingeOuter/1.65;
fingerSize = 6.8;
topFingerSize = fingerSize;
latchWidth = 15;

Wow amazing! One request! Could you do without the latch? I would like to use for my pupils in a escape room in class, and I need to put a combination lock between the two bars.
Thanks in advance!

Like everybody else said, this printed beautifully! Hinges were already separated when peeling off the print plate, no need to do any cracking.

Only thing I saw was that the latch does not really grab on to anything, it just kind of freely opens and closes. But thats not a big deal since it is a simple post-prod fix.

I used different pla (Prefers higher bed temp) but here is my print settings:

Printer: Original Prusa MK2S
Filament: PLA (Silver pixmalion)
nozzle: 210c
Bed: 61c

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this i an amazing box

printed absolutely beautifully. hinge was loose taking it off the plate! Fantastic. I do wish the latch would work. unfortunately, that is so loose it does lock in place.

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i dont see this box working if you adjust the height of the box as the latch would be twice as long as it needs too be with greater height

I printed one and was very surprised it worked. ( it was loose) I was under extruding by about 20 mm per 100mm. Then started increasing my extrusion rate (steps not flow) until it was correct thinking it would fuse and it still printed perfect. Not loose anymore. I just finished fine-tuning my alunar M 508 I recently put together and am using Blue/ Inland PLA from micro center at 210 first layer with .3 nozzle @.2 mm and 200c the rest of the layers. both fans 100% except first layer. Hope this helps

I've try today with PLA and hinges fused.... but not totally. With a cutter blade, I have successfully cut them and the box is operational.
Only a gap between the 2 parts (top and bottom) near the hinges. Thank you for this model of box and I will retry for better hinges.
Update coming soon

I see I'm not necessarily the only person who had difficult with PLA and fusing of the hinge. Can anyone provide any advice on the best adjustments to make? I see the originator of the design commented about a lower temperature. Things like extrusion multiplier, etc?

Tried 3 different types of PLA and on each of them the latch and hinges are all fuzed together and broke

Has anyone succesfully printed this one with PLA?

Yes. And believe it or not it was with a Tiko, no supports.

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Hi, many thanks for an awesome print!! just used this to test out my newly configured home built Kossel mini 2020 delta and the result was simply stunning!! Works really well, thank you again.

Tried few times with different filament , box itself ok , but hinges and latch just breaks . good idea but doesn't work .

Great SCAD project. What do you think of making the top and bottom heights separate. That is, you can set the height of the bottom part and the top part separately?

As I see it, the main problem is that for both the top and bottom to sit flush with the table, both halves have to have the same height. Do you see a different solution to the hinge problem for different height sides?

If you don't mind building with supports, it seems doable. Based on other comments, it seems printing without support is a goal (though I worry about the long unsupported cylinder in my currently-printing Make)

Another alternative that comes to mind would involve an internal hinge that prints the "front" faces of the top and bottom halves against the bed, but no; then you have the problem of needing supports all through the interior to support the "back" faces.

Edited to add: My boxes (I printed a second one) came out fine in PLA Makibox colored PLA and 3D Solutech Clear/Natural PLA, both at 205°C and 60mm/s on an MP Select Mini. Layer height was probably .200.

Not sure how customizer loads the openscad files, if it's based on file date or not, but I think you should delete V1 from this thing to insure that customizer is loading the corrected V2 file. When I created a customizer version it fused my latch on the print. Downloaded the V2 file and set the same parameters and the print was much easier to free the latch.

Do you print with support or no?

I printed without support and it worked great.

What plastic (brand/color) is your box printed in? Looks amazing.

I agree about the filament. Of the 10 rolls of filament I have, nothing prints as smooth as this one. I got it from http://matterhackers.commatterhackers.com and it's the PRO filament. It's a couple bucks more than regular filament. Honestly, the difference in the quality of the print is so great, I don't know how they sell any regular filament. Go pro!

I'll have to bite for some.....I have their regular silver PLA and it's much more translucent.

I also just realized that the version of the STL and .scad file that are attached, use a latch size and tolerance that is a little too tight. The latch rod/hole combo should be bigger and the tolerance a hair looser. I think then you'll get a latch that doesn't break when you try and free it up. Also, make sure you work the latch free using the least amount of leverage possible. Don't try and break it free by grabbing the longest part of the latch and working it from there.

One last thing, make sure you're not printing too hot. I tried prints at 230 and they were all fused. Only when I drop to 220 do I get reliable prints where the hinge and latch both break free with no problems.

The box printed well, but the latch broke off. :-(

Same here. The hinge was fine but the latch broke -- twice. I even paused the print and tried cut the latch loose in the middle of printing it. I am going to try again with a little bit bigger hinge and scaling the box by 1.25.
Thanks for publishing the box! It is impressive that the hinge prints as a single print.

I know the feeling. Did the hinge break free? I tuned and tried my settings on 4 different boxes before I got it dialed in strong enough to print a latch that would not break. I print mine at 100% infill. A scaled up version would also be stronger. Thanks for giving it a try, and good luck!

The hinge part printed great and works perfectly. And the box itself looks great. If the movable latch part was a few "pixels" skinnier, I think it would work. Thanks for sharing!!