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eiPionezero

2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 and others

by eiPionezero May 20, 2015
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you the man print at 2mm thickness for a tight fit 100% infill

will this work with the heater/thermistor wire coming out the back instead of the side?

I use it for months and it works fine on my Geeetech Prusa I3. So thanks to eiPionezero !
But the problem is that the part that blocks on the tube (replace the blue original part) has not enough strong (it's too fine) and I need tu use a strap to maintain it.
A good idea, imho, be to make a version that to be screwed on the original blue part, instead of the fan.

Hello, I wish I could have the 30mm fan support, does someone have it? Thanks!

I'm searching it too and don't find anything like this for 30mm

excuse me, I dont know why tempature slow down, from 220 down to 181, I think i was set up cooling fan right way. my power supply was old? Or i need something to wrap hottend? pls help me
Sorry for my bad english

ALWAYS wrap the aluminium block or cover it using heatblock sock.

Recommendation to secure fan: use a line of rubbery-like glue on the end line of the clamp - about 0.5mm to 1mm thick - let it dry (!!) then it operates as additional grip and holds much tighter.

Mine slipped away before when it ran over partially failed printed filament, and fell on the heatbed - if I would not have been around it would be dragging on, the hotend warm up and likely melt the adapter and even worse - so yes, secure the fan.

Looks great, prints beautifully, but the duct doesn't fit around my 2018 genuine E3D Lite6 heater block. I'll probably remix it, as the basic design looks to be exactly what I need, as the 30mm fan that E3D provided is really loud & I have a lovely 40mm absolutely silent Noctua just waiting to go on...

I like the simplicity, and that it shouldn't need supports.

I don't think its wiser to combine both the fans. Heat sink fan should always be on say when the bed plate temp exceeds 50C whereas print cooling fan might change its speed depending on the print height.

Made one , works very well. Great job !

Small comment; could you make the wall thickness and the fan mount a tad thicker ?

Made it fit with my chinese clone e3d v6. However, that's not really important message here;it's that it doesn't work.

You do need 2 fans. One for the heatsink and one for the hotend.

First, the one for the hotend doesn't really blow directly to the newly extruded filament. Rather it is blowing air around it, instead of at it. In this case, it beats the purpose of cooling the newly extruded filament.

Second, the one for the heatsink is doesn't really clamp on properly. Maybe if the clamping part is thicker, itd work better.

To conclude, I think it's a neat idea. Saves weight and looks really cool but it doesn't work. For my Anet A8, at least.

I agree with rcarloc.

It didn't work for me on my delta. The clamp came loose over time and messed up a print when it hit it.
The air blowing on the part caused the print bed to loose temp and the print to come of the bed.

Conclusion, need two fans so you can control them individually for different printing conditions.

I agree, the fin cooler needs to be on 100% of the time and the end cooler needs to be controlled.
Need two fans....
No way around it that I can see.

And with ABS you don't want filament cooling most of the time at all.... and you NEED heat break cooling ALL THE TIME.

This cant work.....

Can u make it for for bigger fan ?

Printed one out in PLA and I'm using it along with the blue silicone sleeve that came with my hot end, no issues with it melting after a 5 hour print

Thanks for uploading the solidworks file! I wish more people did that!

Thanks for uploading the solidworks file! I wish more people did that!

Thanks for uploading the solidworks file! I wish more people did that!

Thanks for uploading the solidworks file! I wish more people did that!

Thanks for uploading the solidworks file! I wish more people did that!

Great design. Wish it has worked for me. I made the mistake of using PLA.

The bottom duct rested on the hotend and melted, it was also too tall (Chinese Clone) and scraped the bed. The way my hotend is mounted, the clasp cant reach the heatsink properly, and just falls off.

Not a fault with the design on yours, just my silly printer. Keep up the good work!

Hi, what should i change in the firmware to keep the same performances of 2 working fans?
In my case i use the Marlin.
Thank you, nice part!

hey bro, you can make one version for 50mm fan ?

I don't know guys. -- This seems like a bad idea. -- The fan that blows on the heatsink should be always on, versus the fan that blows on the work area should be controlled by g-code (and thus, your slicer). -- I'm curious to know how this is working out for you, and what type of configuration you're running it in.

Lacking a good fan blowing on the work area I've used a simple table top fan next to my printer for designs with bridging/overhang. Hugely overkill, and always on during print. (If I switch it on only for bridging would be better, but I loose USB connection when I switch that fan on). However, print results where good. (With PLA/PETG, I never used ABS).

So I think this would work fine. However it doesn't fit my mendel90 (Sturdy) unless I'm willing to sacrifice part of the X-axis (It bumps into the Z smoothrod on the X-motor side in the only orientation it will fit. Otherwise the bearings form the X carriage are in the way.)

Lacking a good fan blowing on the work area I've used a simple table top fan next to my printer for designs with bridging/overhang. Hugely overkill, and always on during print. (If I switch it on only for bridging would be better, but I loose USB connection when I switch that fan on). However, print results where good. (With PLA/PETG, I never used ABS).

So I think this would work fine. However it doesn't fit my mendel90 (Sturdy) unless I'm willing to sacrifice part of the X-axis (It bumps into the Z smoothrod on the X-motor side in the only orientation it will fit. Otherwise the bearings form the X carriage are in the way.)

Yea your right, but it looks kewl.

Could someone who has solidworks export this as an ipt file and email it to me?
My email is rafi@rafilerman.com
Thanks

This printed beautifully for my original E3D, but it didn't fit well. Very loose around the fins and the filament cooling path hit on the new-style (cartridge thermistor) heater block. Too bad. IMHO, I think the sides that slip over the fins should be thicker to make them more durable, and they need to be altered to grip better. Very nice looking device, but it simply didn't fit well enough for me to test it. I never got far enough along to mount a fan.

The same for me ! :( don't fit well ... and the vibration due to the fan are very boring

Nice design, I almost printed it, but I suddenly realized, that I could not print with ABS with this fan duct, because I need independent control of air flow for cooling the head and the printed object.

Great design and concept thanks - Can you please add a butterfly valve so we can close the bottom duct for printing ABS?

Just printed it. Great design, fits well.

Update: After testing I noticed that the flow is so high that the heated bed cooled down instead of staying stable. For now I have not mounted the duct. Maybe in the future for thin wall builds.

Id like to know if anyone has this type of fan duct for the regular hot end you get with the Chinese printer ( prusa i3 2016 ebay)

I just printed for my prusa with the China hotend that came with it. It fits but is a little off set

Any thoughts on this with a 30mm fan so you can use the existing one?

I designed an "adaptor" from 40x40 to 30x30. Works quite well, but I am mounting a 40x40 fan today to further minimize the saging overhangs.

first one was not an succes , i do have a e3dv6 light model , i am going to try the fake one , otherwise i am going to change it to my model

I really like this design. Have you considered updating it to allow for the new silicone socks from E3D? I've been using this one for a few weeks now and it works well, but it does sit snug against the heater block.

An update would be amazing! I've been browsing thingiverse for a couple of days looking for a fan duct for my E3D v6 and this is the best looking one I've found - unfortunately, I printed one for a test fit and the new (larger) E3D heater block & sock butts up against the ends of the duct. I haven't tried running it hot yet (E3D v6 not installed yet) but I asked around and most folks said the silicone gets quite hot - enough to melt / warp PETG.

I spent an hour or two trying to modify it myself, but I don't have the chops to do it yet =(.

Hello,

If I print this in ColorFabb nGen co-polyester, will the radiation of heat block damage the duct ?
My printing temp is 235°C

I read that PLA is not a good idea, and I'm new to 3D Printing, so I don't know how co-polyester will behave regards to PLA/ABS
Never printed in PLA/ABS, just had 4 rolls of co-polyester to start with in my journey to 3D printing.

Any advice ?

whats the difference between the chineese one a e3d version

hey, i am working on a mount for dual V6 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1722726) can you provide me the drawing of the hotend? (prefferably Solidworks format)

thank you
jason

Dual E3D V6 plate for Kossel XL

Beautiful design! This is an elegant approach, and will certainly provide better flow at the nozzle than alternatives with narrow, angular flow channels. Small fans of the type used here provide very low pressure, and don't handle resistance well at all. I'd love to see a modular one for non-cylindrical heat sinks (or design one myself).

Works perfect! no extra support needed, thanks man.

Looks great, could you post up some good settings to user too please?
Layer height, fill %, good extrusion width maybe?

Thanks

Hi there,
I like the shape, it's simple and elegant.
On the other hand, I don't think it's a good idea to join the two fans. The fan for the extruder has to run all the time, otherwise the heat flowing up from the hot end will overheat the extruder, the filament becomes too soft to go through the feeding line and the printer jams.
On my printer - and probably on others, too - it cannot be controlled, gets continuous power while the printer is switched on.
The other fan, which cools the extruded filament and the printed object - is another story. It can be controlled depending on filament materials, object shape, printing speed, etc. Most slicers control it layer by layer, or even more frequently (e.g. slic3r)
It will not necessarily cause problems to you until you print fairly simple shapes. The general risk is that in certain cases your 1st layer will not stick (enough) to the bed. Most slicers switch off the object fan for the 1st couple of layers, allowing them to melt better to the bed.

The downside of this design is you wont be able to print ABS anymore if you have an all metal hotend.

Made One, and gave me very good results with PLA.
Would be great to have a dual fan version with a cooling on the back side of the extruder, because parts tend to warp at the back (for ex Marvin)

thanks for share it. tomorrow i will try to print one :)

If only more people used the Prometheus V2 nozzle, I need one of these so bad....

I'm surprised no one has remixed this to fully encircle the nozzle yet.

Doesn't work on a Kossel Mini FLSUN. Needs a different effector to be able to fit.

Great design but I think that needs little bit improvements. Can you import this in rsdoc or some other format? I use Design Spark Mechanical I heard that it is similar to SolidWorks? Format's I can use for editing are RSDOC,AMF,DXF,OBJ,SKP. Thank's

Robert KB3LNN

I have been using this for the past 3 days and its worked a treat although I do find with a large powerful fan it has a tendency to pull away from the heat sink which would be fixed with a slightly larger clip around the heat sink.

I Have my heatblock the other way, is it posible to make a version where it would fit with the heatblock the other way around?

Or you turn your heatblock?

Thank you for providing the source-file!

For anybody using the Kossel mini effector (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:731354): Unfortunately, this fan duct does NOT fit the mini effector version. It bumps into the effector. I hope this helps somebody.

Kossel Mini effector for E3D-v6
by saldot

Has anyone made something like this for the hexagon hot end?

Thank you for the Solid works file !!
I love when people share the original files, it shows that they believe that progress is only achievable by sharing knowledge .

Still need some improvements, but that's why we are here : helping to achieve a better work .

Can it be used for the e3d V5 model?

I did one, but the design has some minor problems. Some issues I experienced:

1- In the cold area i need constant cooling...i used abs and i had to turn off the cooler for the first layer...so i had a conflict, turning off the cooler stops the cooling for cold area...
2- The lock system needs to improve some way...with normal 3d printer vibration, this duct change position and touch the hot nozzle, melting and deform...
3- I like to see 3d part grow (especially the first layer), with this design, the frontal view has been blocked 100%.

Cheers

Humberto

Great desing but I think that needs little bit improvements. Can you import this in dwg or some other non solidworks format?

Second this! Would love to see one with a more full grip and even 1 or 2 little teeth to go between the heatsink blades to stop it slipping down due to vibration.

I printed the object with pla. With the heat of the extruder was glued. To you it has happened?

Never use PLA when printing hot end parts ABS is the way to go there

Hah, PLA is not good decision for this design ;)

no, i've been printing using this fan and first layer is fine. I use this for the sunhokey prusa. best fan mount so far. of course, 1 layer fan is best. Quality of my PLA prints are great!

Anyone had problem with first layer PLA to stick running this cooler? When you need the fan to run 100% from start

I do. Still trying to figure out the workaround. If I don't turn the fan on until 3or 5 layers, E3D will heat creep and melt the filament inside PTFE liner. With fan on, the first layer does stick, but on 2 or 3 layer the entire thing comes off the bed. If you figure anything out, please share. Thanks.

What surface do you print on?

I print PLA on bare heated glass (no hairspray or blue tape). I took some time to play with the settings just this afternoon and discovered the following solution. Turn the fan on to 50% via software, then heat up the extruder to 220c. Touch the heatsink to see if the temperature is ambient. if so, drop fan down to 40% and do the process over again to see how low you can drop you fan speed without compromising the passive cooling. My fan was able to do 20%~25% speed without raising the temperature of heatsink.

Now to the actual print job. I've got my fan set @ 25%speed, then start the print job. In the cooling settings of your slicer software (or repetier host), have the fan set @ 15% or 20% for first 3 layers (to make sure filament sticks to bed without strong fan blowing at it), then back to 25% for the rest of the print (this is to avoid any heat creep up the heatsink and cause jamming).

So far i've done about 5 calibration cubes with this settings and they all printed without any problem.

One additional problem i'm trying to workout is that my fan is wired to the D9 print fan, not the extruder fan. Print fan has the advantage of controlling fan speed via software at any given time (even with start script gcode), but start script gcode comes after heating up and before print. So without software, I don't know how i can turn the fan on before heating up without the printer connected to a desktop/laptop via software. say I want to print solely via SD Card. Dont know how to beat this part yet.

What firmware are you using? In Marlin you can set fan speed in Control.

This works great, thanks for the design! Has anyone made a modified version that fits the volcano hot end? I can't find anything but maybe someone has done it. Thanks.

One of the remixes of this thing is titled "2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 VOLCANO", I bet that design is what you are looking for!

Looks like that one will work, thanks!

Comments deleted.

I found this wasnt a tight fit onto the E3d and it touched heated block and melts

Are you sure you took the right STL-file? Chinese E3D-V6 hotends come in a lot of different sizes, you first have to measure which type of hotend you have before you can print the right model!

I wonder how much work it would take to make an air flow diverter-- using an electromagnet and a flap to toggle air flow to the nozzle. No need for a change in firmware, just hook up the electromagnet to the fan relay and your good to go.

Feel free to remix this thing by adding your idea and please share your results!

Great fan duct ! thanks to share it with us.

i have a Smartrapcore Alu and it would fit but with print area lost :( it bump on the 2020 aluminium extrusion when the head move to Y home)

do you plan to mod it with 30 degrees oriented fan ????

Right now, I am working on some other projects, feel free to redesign the object, all source files are available. Maybe you could temporary fix the problem by changing the location of your endstop?

Absolutely exquisite design!!!!!! But my set up takes the small fan that comes with the e3dv6 kit. http://www.3dmakerworld.com/e3d-v6-full-kit It would be awesome to have this design fit the small fan so it fits between the rails. Did you by chance do such a version? Thanks

I would recommend using a 40mm fan to get enough airflow, but feel free to redesign the thing. Source files are available and please share your results!

I'm just thinking that wont turning of the fan for the first layer with this mean that the extruder will get very hot?

Good question, Nicolinux asked the same on the 6th of June ;)
For me, I have set in Cura the option to have the fan off during the first layer and on 50% for every layer higher than 0.5mm. This works perfect for most of my prints. If I have to print a very big object, with a large sized first layer, the heatsink will heat up too much and can cause filament jamming. But large object do not need object cooling, only cooling for the heatsink, so for those prints I use a different fanduct which only cools the heatsink and not the object. For smaller objects, not cooling the heatsink for just a few minutes should not cause problems.

Why would you want to turn off the fan for the first layer? Is it supposed to help with adhesion?

Comments deleted.

what printer is this for? Will it work on a Taz 3?
And or a Rigidbot regular single ext.?

Depends on the used hotend and the used hotendmount, please examine this for yourself :)
If the fan duct does not fit, you can always use the Solidworks source file to create a fitting fan duct.

Do not--absolutely DO NOT--print this in PLA. I was stupid, and wanted to see what would happen, so I printed in PLA, and the first think to happen was that the part holding onto the heatsink snapped. Okay, great, just Dremel a hole and zip tie it in place. So, I did that, and a few hours into printing, my nozzle and thermistor wires were covered in melted PLA, eventually causing the thermistor to read inaccurate temperatures (I suspect the wires are bent, and are now on the verge of breaking). So, again, DO NOT print this in PLA, unless you feel like ruining your day.

Ough, does not sound great. I saw that dennishusell also printed in PLA, but he used some aluminium foil to protect the fan duct: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:160967

2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 and others

tnx!!

I didn't realize how do i suppose to attach this fan duct to the printer?

How about simply snapping it to the heatsink of your hotend :p

i will post the build when its done. i chose MadeSolid PET+ for the Filament

E3D Volcano Models (Solidworks and STL)

i also have an e3d v6 volcano that could use this if the fan duct were longer/lower, but i don't have the specs in front of me

i have no gift for cad, but i think it would be great to have some led mounts integrated into the notch between the upper and lower ducts to light the print. possibly as part of a support structure that makes it easier to print .
looks great though. as aluminum effector plates are becoming cheap, i think this kind of clip on design will be very popular

i am printing one right now

That may be a good idea. Right now, I do not have the time to design these led mounts, but maybe I will design it in the future :)

Can you make one for a 60mm fan? I have planed on making one but if you have your source files it would probably be quicker to just request you to do it.

Hi I love the design but how do I know if I have a china clone or the other ones

Please measure the diameter and height of the heatsink of your hotend. The official E3D heatsink has a diameter of 22.3mm and a height of 26mm, my clone has a diameter of 25mm and a height of 32mm. If your clone has a heatsink with a diameter different than 22.3 or 25, you can use the Solidworks source file to create your own fitting fan duct.

Comments deleted.

does the bottom duct interfere with the hot end?

It should not interfere. I do not have problems, are you sure you have printed the fan duct in the right dimensions? For example, my own hotend is a Chinese clone so I had to adjust some dimensions for the print, but now everything works perfect. So please check the exact dimensions of your hotend en change the fan duct if needed. Source files are available :)

Prints great!

Question: what fans work well here?

The stock v6 fan measures 30x30x10mm, so I needed to get a 40mm fan. I made the mistake of ordering a "silent" fan. Big mistake - insufficient airflow (though barely audible compared to the E3D v6 stock fan!). My fans (insufficient) rated values were 4200rpm and 4.5 CFM, now i need something way stronger!

The E3D website doesnt state the RPM/CFM of the fan they supply, so I did some research based on the model number, and found a datasheet which states the RPM as 11,000 and the CFM as 4.4, however I could be completely wrong! I dont know enough about Fan calculations to figure out how these would translate from a 30mm fan to a 40mm fan.

So what are the rated values for RPM and CFM on the fans you're using ?

I really have no idea what the specs of the fan are I am using, I am just using some cheap 40mm Chinese fan which works perfect :p

i have printed but the walls are to thinner...

There is a remix that just has thicker walls. My remix of Dokart's changes also has thicker walls with the addition of Dokart's rotating flow valve for cooling parts.

Yup, fantastic, Thanks! 100% Infill and a 0.2mm layer height in PLA worked a treat!

The PLA doesn't melt?

Superb Design! Printing Mine right now!!!! #FingersCrossed

Today i change your model and add on/valve to material blowout http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:939997

Fun duct on/off valve to material blowout
by Dokart

When i need no fan flow on the model, i simply put some wadding to the "model" duct.. whats the problem...

And thnx for model btw!

Nice! Is it possible to create one with only the funnel for the E3D? I do have a second fan (because ABS don't need an always on fan) for the nozzle itself, but like the 45° angle to mount the fan.

Source files are available, so feel free to redesign to the fan duct and please share you results :)

Really good idea, but wouldn't this cause problems if one tries to print with the fan off for the first layers? The full metal hotend needs constant cooling and with this design you are forced to always print with the fan on.

I agree with Nicolinux, if you set it "always on" you can have problems of adherence on the first layers, and if you activate it via gcode maybe the melted filament could reach the extruder at the begining of the print and cause jamming.

How do you wire it?

(Little late reply, I was offline for some time :p )
Good point. For me, I have set in Cura the option to have the extra fan off the first layer, 50% for every layer higher than 0.5mm. This works perfect for most of my prints. If I have to print a very big object, with a large sized first layer, the heatsink will heat up too much and can cause filament jamming. But large object do not need object cooling, only cooling for the heatsink, so for those prints I different fanduct which only cools the heatsink and not the object. For smaller objects, not cooling the heatsink for just a few minutes should not cause problems.

Can you send the source , so I can thicken the walls ?

What do you mean? The source file is already available for download, just look under the tab 'Thing files'.

I'm seeking this brilliant idea, and You've done great work!
I tries printing chinese clone using my prusa i3, but the result isn't like what I expected.
I sliced this with Cura, and ran the printing with RepetierHost, but the wall is too shallow, and it couldn't hold at position,
Could you thicken the wall to 2~3mm more? or any instruction.

June/6
I found the difference between Official, and chinese clone, I could print official one successfully, but chinese one is total failure.
Still, I don't know how to fix this, Finally, I got answer for this, I change the option of infill of Cura to concentric line, and remove all the support with 100% infill. The result looks satisfactory.

Thanks!
With which nozzle size do you print? Walls are 1mm thick, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, Cura may give only 2 lines for every wall, so you get a wall consisting of 0.4mm plastic, 0.2mm air and then 0.4mm plastic again, which is really fragile. For me, I used a 0.3mm nozzle, Cura then uses multiple plastic lines to create a solid 1mm wall. Maybe this can also be a solution for you?
Yes, there is a big difference between the two STL's! First, I printed a fan duct using the official dimensions, when I observed that the fan duct did not fit but broke instead, I measured the real dimensions of my heatsink and saw a big difference of multiple millimeters.
Can you please share your final result? I am curious about the pictures :)

Your guess is right, I used 4mm nozzle, And if I could get 3mm nozzle, then I'll get better result.
Anyway, current one can give reasonable quality,even if it looks loose.I uploaded the image on "made one" section.

Thank you for sharing this brilliant stuff!!

I love the idea. I've printed one but it doesn't fit my Wade Extruder mount. Would you be able to design one that has the fan more more vertical and slightly lower?

Thanks!
I have included the source file, modify as you like :)
Assuming you have Solidworks installed, you can easily modify the two guide line sketches for the air ducts and adjust some parameters for the location of the fan to get your perfect 2-1 fan duct. Please share the result :)

will this fit an e3d lite6?

I came to ask the same question. Did you ever try this on a Lite6? Did it work for you? Thanks!

According to the documentation of the E3D Lite6 (http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-Lite6_Documentation#v6_Fan_Duct), the fan duct of the Lite6 is the same as the fan duct of the V6, so the dimensions are the same. Assuming that the distance between the heatsink and the nozzle tip is also the same, this fan duct should fit perfect.

If you have a Chinese Lite6, dimensions can be a little different than the official dimensions. Please measure the diameter and length of the heatsink and the distance between the heatsink and the nozzle tip. If these dimensions are respectively 22.3mm, 26mm and 18-20mm, you are good to go.

Brilliant!
Would you mind to share the E3D V6 model as well?

The E3D V6 model I used for the photo rendering is just a very quick drawing of only a few minutes, it will possible take less time for you to draw you own version in whatever the program you like using the online spec sheets (http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation), then for me to zip and upload the files ;)

Yes, fair enough. It does look quite easy now you mention it ;)

Edit: just found one here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:433258

E3D v6 1.75 mm Universal Hotend