Dishwasher miscellaneous parts

by laird, published

Dishwasher miscellaneous parts by laird May 5, 2013
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2940Views 1324Downloads Found in Kitchen & Dining


The headline is "My Replicator and Nylon printing saved me $800".

I've been using my Replicator to print replacement parts for my dishwasher, because the parts companies only sell the complete rack assembly, for $400/rack . I originally printed them in ABS, but after a few months the ABS breaks down under the heat and stress of the interior of a dishwasher. Rather than print replacements every few months, I was about to break down and buy the (expensive) replacement assemblies, when Taulman 645 came out. Like Taulman 618, it's Nylon, which is (nearly) indestructible, but 645 is much more rigid than 618, so it works very nicely for this application. So rather than spending $800 on replacement assemblies, I've been printing them again in Taulman 645 Nylon. Yay!

The parts are all generated in OpenSCAD, so you can customize them to the measurements of your dishwasher. In particular, pin size, length, and spacing are highly variable between dishwashers.

Part 1: This is my unimaginative name for a rack section that folds up and down, on the top rack. The printed one isn't as strong as the metal piece it replaced, but it's sufficient to hold glasses in place so they don't hit each other. The pin spacing is uneven, because I copied the original part.

Part 2: This is a clip that holds a cross-piece in place. The cross-piece rotates so that pins are either up or down. I designed the piece so that the identical part works on both ends of the cross-piece.

Rack Protector: Pins tend to rust at the joint where they attack to the rack. This protector is a piece that fits over the pins in the rack to protect the joint where the pin attaches to the rack. This strengthens the joint if it's already weakened, and it protects it from damage, because dishes rest on the protector instead of the (thin) plastic coating on the pin. These snap nicely into place, so you don't need any adhesive to hold them in place. This is Ed Nisley's Dishwasher Rack Protector, tweaked a bit.

Rack Protector with Pin: if the pin has broken off, you can use a protector which includes the pin, in place of the missing pin. You'll need to glue the base into place so that it doesn't swivel around the rack. There's a parameter in the code so that if there's a 'stub' of the pin left, this will fit over the stub. This is from my Rack Protector with Pin.

I'm including the STL files, and a few photos, so that you can see what the parts are. But it's highly unlikely that the parts that fit my KitchenAid dishwasher will fit your dishwasher, so you'll likely need to take some measurements and tweak the OpenSCAD files to fit your needs.

I hope these are useful!


Printed using Taulman 645 Nylon, at 240 degrees, 40 mm/s, 0.4mm layer height. Printed on Garolite LE heated to 110 degrees. 3 shells, 20% infill. Worked great for all parts.

Also printed using Taulman 618 Nylon, at 240 degrees, 40 mm/s, 0.27mm layer height. Printed on Garolite LE, unheated. 3 shells, 20% infil. Worked great for the protectors.

What you should do is measure the part that needs replacing in your dishwasher, and tweak the OpenSCAD to suit. The important thing is to copy the relevant structural elements, not every detail of the part. I found that all of the parts that I designed to be 3D printable turned out quite functional, but they look very different from the injection molded or mass-produced parts that they replaced.

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why you heated your garolite le sheet? 645 can't be print on non-heated bed?
my sheet of phenolic(garolite) le is 1/4" thick i don't think heat gonna be conducted.
did your printed part is all in contact with the bed? i don't have print yet on, i'm searching more info on printer setup.

I have since printed 645 on both a heated and unheated sheet of Garolite LE. The heated sheet was 1/32 inch thick, clipped to the HPB with binder clips. The unheated sheet was quarter inch thick, same as yours. And I agree, a sheet that thick wouldn't heat up, at least not rapidly.

Since it printed fine unheated, that's how I print nylon now. It's much faster not waiting for the print bed to heat, and it avoids putting stress on the HPB cable.

Amazing! Do you find the nylon hard to work with?

Easy! Taulman Nylon (http://www.taulman3d.comhttp://www.taulman3d.com) is fairly similar to ABS to print.

Typically Nylon requires very high temperatures to melt, which wouldn't be an option on a home 3D printer. But Taulman worked out a formulation that melts at about the same temperature as ABS. Even better, Taulman 618 Nylon prints onto an unheated print bed, so you should be able to print with it on any printer that can use PLA. This really opens options up, since PLA is quite rigid and fragile, while Nylon is flexible and indestructible.

The only tricky parts are that Nylon you need to print onto Garolite LE, and that Nylon shrinks as it cools, which means that it really wants to curl up off the build platform, even more than ABS. So you need to make sure that the first layer really sticks to the platform, and for large objects you may need to add "ears" to hold the print down. I didn't need to do that for this relatively small dishwasher part.

Garolite LE is:


12" x 12" =

6" x 6" =

For small parts, I am using a 1/32" thick sheet, clipped to my build platform with binder clips. For large parts, I have a 1/4" thick sheet, which sits on top of the build platform.

Great info ~ thank you!

Thanks. This new nylon really opens up the range of usable parts that can be printed.