Replicator 2/2X hinges and handle for the lid

by RodLaird, published

Replicator 2/2X hinges and handle for the lid by RodLaird May 8, 2013
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For the price you might expect a Replicator 2X would come with a hinge for the vacuum formed (and very welcome) lid. (Wait, what am I thinking...)

Here is a somewhat delux / overengineered version of hinges and handle for this model. It uses ball bearing for the hinge and will support the lid nicely when open.

You could get away with printed hinge bearings but it would not be as "nice". (And we all know how important it is to be nice). But for those who wish to tweak, there are source design files in rhino3D and STEP formats.

Works like a bought one. Enjoy.


There are STL's for the lower machine clip (Hinge A) and the upper hinge (Hinge B) and handle. There is a separate STL for the hinge pivot as this needs to be quite strong.

The Hinges A/B and handle can be printed in whatever you like, but the pivot will do best in PLA with 100% infill. Hinge B has some print support structured in the design to prevent sagging of the important hinge pivot area. These break away without difficulty like any support material. It MUST however be printed with slicer support as well. Other than the pivot STL, the STLs all have "stick down" flanges to minimise the potential for print curling. Works a treat.

The handle has matching plates for the other side of the lid. When screwed together these distribute the screw pressure to provide a secure fit without the possibility of tearing / distortion of the hole. (Which may occur with a simple screw). Looks nicer too; and as noted above, nice is nice.

The ball bearing are easily obtainable 22mm OD/ 8mm ID / 7mm depth - used in roller blades everywhere... Which is why I have a bunch lying around the house which therefore get preferentially designed into things. (Just nip out and nick one or two from your kid's blades; they'll never notice!)

The upper hinge (B) will support the lid when open without problems and sits snug through the lid motion. I have however chosen to bond it to the lid with double sided tape. This ensures the hinges don't move from side to side as you "flip the lid". I had considered using magnets in the A hinge to secure them to the machine upper surface, but the tape approach has the benefit of being simple and eliminating upper hinge rattle.

UPDATE 11 July 2013

While no problem has been reported with printing, it seems there are problems with loading some the STLs into other programmes. There is a new ZIP file with refreshed STL's which check out clean in Netfabb

UPDATE 30 July 2013

Have slimmed down Hinga A in a tweaked version for those experiencing print head collisions. (I have not had this problem, but this will avoid it...)

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Brilliant design, I love the use of skate bearings, easy to print and assemble, but unfortunately this is not working for me due to collision with the filament tubes which are extended on my machine.

Replicator 2/2X hinges and handle for the lid
by ninora

Sorry SKPark - I have not checked into Thingiverse for a while... The ball bearings are specified in the instructions and are the same as used in roller-blades. There is a spindle STL on which these are top be mounted.

Thanks. I like this design!
I printed this out several minutes ago, But i can't find the bearing... Where can i get the bearing?

I'm assuming the zips inside the zip are the newest versions (?) which of the two zips inside is THE newest?

None of the zips has an interior zip - so not sure what you have downloaded. I have eliminated a redundant zip but note that there is also a tweaked hinge that fixes a clearance problem with the extruder carriage when it is right at the rear.

Thanks, I think I know what happened. All's well now. Also thanks for sharing your effort on this project.

Hi Rod,

Just wanted to say thanks for the THING

This is a great idea and i can't wait to set it up on my 2x

I'm Printing now as I speak.

You could check it out on Youtube Live!


Thanks Again

Looking good! Try the air scrubber (or or one of the variants developed by others for other filters) too if you are printing in ABS. And the corner plugs. Together they make a big difference to noxious fume emissions. Makes the machine much more comfortable to use. ;-)

Hi Rod,

Would you mind upload new STL file for part A? I've tried to print it twice, the resulting part was of part that has entire left side of geometry missing. The file looked fine in MakerWare. But when I imported the STL file into TinkerCAD and Alias, the part looks like it has been blown to pieces.

Your wish is my command. ;-) Download the STL refresh zip and see how you go. Let me know.

Thanks, the new file worked. Please see made.

I like this design quite a bit. Do you have a problem with the A-side hinge hitting the extruder mast when the extruder is all the way back (Y-home position)? I do, unfortunately, so i think I'll have to reprint the A-hinge with a thinner portion that wraps around the rear frame. Also the B-side overhangs didn't really print well and I think I'd print them with slicer-added support if I were to re-print. The bearings are overkill, but hey, I like it.

my A hinge hit a little after fitting so I got out the sandpaper. then painted with some acetone to smooth and strengthen it again.

Hmmm, interesting. I confess to not having had any clearance problems with the A hinge, but I don't print anything that uses the back of the HBP. I will take another look when I next have time. I had considered using inset magnets in the A hinge to clamp down to the chassis. I have good experience with magnet fixing and expect this would work very well. But I the approach I took obviates this added complexity; but as you say may need a tweak. As for the B side - I should have noted in the instructions that you must ALSO print with slicer added support. I will update the text

I trimmed some material off with Netfabb. (A real hack, but I don't have tools to edit raw STLs or your other file types) Made the back clip 2mm thick instead of 4mm thick. The extruder carriage no longer hits. If I were to do it again, I might add 1.5mm to the other side of the clip so that it clamps more snugly to the machine. I'm going to reprint the B-side with full support, since "nice is nice". Great design.

Its hard to measure, but it looks like the clearance behind the extruder mast is around 3.5mm when in the Y-home position. Also the zip tie that holds the umbilical was rotated such that it made for even less clearance. The clip is 4mm thick so there's the interference. Gonna try to take the clip down to 1.5mm or 2mm thick in the back and see if it clears better.