This is a new 3-jaw coupling that allows z alignment adjustment but doesn't require you to drill dimples in a nut and hang the x axis from the dimples.
The coupling is printed in 2 parts referred to below as the coupling and the cup.
I suggest you don't use a heated bed because you want to be able to remove the print from the bed easily to avoid snapping off one of the flanges.
Once you have printed both parts and safely removed them from the bed, insert 3 M3 nuts in the captive holes. The flanges on the inside should hold them in place once you get them in there.
Now lock two nuts on the top of your z rod. If the bridge over the top of the coupling has sagged a bit, you may not have room for two full nuts and may want to use a locknut (half nut) on the top. If this is the case, screw them on far enough so that the rod sits with the bottom of the bottom nut in line with the bottom of the coupling.
Put a washer on the rod smooth side down. Now slide the cup up the rod onto the bottom of the coupling so the holes are aligned. You may need some force to get the coupling to sit down in the cup. Once it is all the way on, the holes should be aligned and you should be able to see the captive nuts.
Screw 3 M3x10 or M3x12 screws into the nuts. These screws both hold the z rod up and allow you to adjust Z rod alignment.
Install the Z rod on your bot and attach to the stepper like you do with the standard coupling. I like to pre-drill the stepper hole using a 4.8mm drill bit and then put it on as a press fit before installing the screw and tightening tight.
Turn the z rod by hand and adjust the 3 jaw screws to precisely control the alignment of your z rod.
Print without any Z wobble.