Tic-Tac-Toe Game, Travel 0v1

by MiseryBot, published

Tic-Tac-Toe Game, Travel 0v1 by MiseryBot May 30, 2011

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(This thing got featured in the thingiverse blog: http://blog.thingiverse.com/2011/05/30/this/ )

When my daughter saw this thing ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8859 ) she wanted to take the pieces off to have the "X" and "O" to play with for Tic-Tac-Toe. Since I had been messing with a case ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8860 ), I decided to try to mash them together into a little travel Tic-Tac-Toe game.

There is a little video of it building here:

This is an original work, but is similar to:


The ZIP includes the OpenSCAD source. The OpenSCAD source is not an example of good programming. Just hacked together for fun.

There is a logo on the bottom, you can delete that or replace it with one you like.

1) Print.

2) You might need to sand or tweak the lid slightly. With my printer it goes together right off the build platform, but I had to tweak quite a bit to make that happen.

3) Try to remember when you thought little boxes with parts in them were cool.

4) After you give up, let a kid have it, they still think little boxes with parts in them are magic.

5) Wonder if the little pieces will break the vacuum as they rattle through it.

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I would really love to see the individual print files for the pieces and the case. Trying to make this for students who are visually impaired and high contrast is nice. But with it all as a single object Making 3 of them is annoying rather than printing the parts I want how I'd like. I may remix and edit the scad file, but thought I'd ask here first.

I'd like to be able to print more Xs and Os too. I tried to split it but Cura doesn't offer me that option. Drawing board I guess.

If you load the .stl into Cura you can right click it and split it into parts. Delete what you don't want to print atm and leave the rest.

This is great, well designed, prints great on the Colido Compact

Great design, and a lot of fun. I printed these in black, yellow, and red. The contrasting X's and O's look great. If you do a V2, consider adding a few more playing pieces, they seem to jump right off the table :-D

Those were with black ABS. With natural ABS I am now cleaning the kapton between builds with acetone. I preheat the HBP to 160 and build with it at 120. This seems to stick it down very well, though the parts can be a bugger to remove.

For natural, I am extruding at 210.

This was my first print on my newly assemble TOM. It went very smooth.

For some reason my Xs and Os were hollow but in your images that look like that are printed solid. I am not sure what I did wrong there.

The kids have already laid claim to game.

Thank you for sharing it.

Sounds like the "extra shells" bug in Skeinforge. When you have something like 2 extra shells enabled (default) and you get to a thin segment of your part, Skeinforge decides it can't fit in all the shells and an infill bit ends up omitting both. The workaround is to specify 0 extra shells in the Skeinforge settings.

We are in real need of a good G-Code visualizer for Windows/Linux so we are able to diagnose these types of things before a print, Pleasant 3D on OS X is about the only thing we have at the moment. Skeinlayer/Skeinview/Skeiniso offer some if this but are not very friendly to use. I hear Makerbot a
re working hard on a replacement for the simulator in ReplicatorG, let's hope it's something amazing.

I am not sure how to "fix" this type of stuff. SkeinForge does some weird things with "thin" walls. Printing this thing:


will help you see what SkeinForge does.

Wall Thickness Calibration Test Piece

Thanks for the tip. I will give it a try.

This is a gorgeous print! I'm running a Makerbot with a HBP and I'm trying to calibrate it to print better. Could you post your settings?

(*Skeinforge settings)

make extra X's and O's for when the kids drop them down the side of couch, back of the car seat etc.