Replicator 2X Z-Axis Shims for Glass Plates

by MadReasonable, published

Replicator 2X Z-Axis Shims for Glass Plates by MadReasonable May 15, 2013
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Make your printer home it's z-axis a little lower so you can fit a glass plate on top of the build platform without the extruder nozzles crashing into the glass.

Version 2

  • 2013-05-19
    Added 6mm and 9mm versions. I haven't tested or even printed these larger sizes but they'll probably work fine. If any of the sizes don't work for you just let me know and I'll see what I can do.

I've made it much shorter and snugger and there's no more wiggle. It works the same way as before except now it only fits over the part of the board directly underneath the endstop switch.

The shim is now 3.2mm high, which is somewhere between 1/8" and the actual thickness of my 1/8" glass plate.

Version 1

  • I just sliced a little bit off the bottom of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:67494 to make it work with my 1/8th inch glass plate. I plan on making it a little snugger to reduce the wiggle. I also want to make it much shorter so that it's less likely to warp and so that any warping that does occur is less of an issue.

1/8th inch is 3.175mm and this shim is only 2.5mm but there is more than enough action on the leveling screws to make up the difference.


Version 2

  • I tuned the design of the 3.2mm shim to my print settings and printed the STL file as-is on my 1/8" glass plate using a previous version of the shim that I haven't uploaded. I used Sailfish 7.4 firmware with MakerWare on High Quality (replicatorG and I aren't friends right now).

Infill: 15%
Shells: 3
Layer Height: 0.20mm

Extruder Temp: 230C
HBP Temp: 110C

The shim is no longer centered on the device. It now sits to YOUR left of the z-axis drive-shaft, directly under the endstop switch. The little notch faces the back of the machine and will fit around a support on the backside of the board.

Move the extruder carriage to the front the printer and lower the build plate so that you can easily reach behind the z-axis drive-shaft. Fit the notch in the back first, then roll the shim forward and press down. It's a tight fit but should click into place without too much forcing. To remove it pull up on the front and it should pop off.

If it falls between the two boards you'll need to get a flashlight and fish it out. If it falls behind the rear board it might fall all the way down if you jog the plate up and down a little. In either case it's possible to get the shim jammed against the drive-shaft and potentially harm your machine so be careful if it falls in somewhere.

Version 1

  • Printed at .20mm, 2 shells, 30% infill. I want it to be fairly rigid so that the z-axis returns to the exact same position every time, but my settings are probably overkill.

You don't have to remove the back of your machine. Just lower your build plate until you can easily reach behind the Z-axis rod and fit this over the back board of the z carriage (behind the piece with the M logo). The notch in the shim faces the rear of printer and should be centered right behind the rod.

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Heya, thanks for this file, I'm using the same tactic to lower the Z-axis home and its been working great. I'm now needing to offset the bed by nearly 20mm and this works mostly fine, exept for now when I home the bed the build plate tries to go lower than possible and makes a nasty noise as it has hit the bottom but is still trying to go further down.
Have you have this issue or know how to manually set the Z homing coordinates?

Hello med reasonable, as you are to print on the glass turntable? piece of glass and you can get grip on all prints? you print directly on the glass or apply some tape on it? Have you ever tried to apply the hair spray? What is the temperature now imposed on your plate, 115 ° or greater? Hello Graziee !!

Sorry for the late response. I no longer print on glass because it kept breaking. The issue was that I actually had too much grip on the plate. I used an aluminum dioxide powder to etch the surface and then applied ABS slurry. Now I just use Kapton tape right on my plate. I don't like it as much, but it's so much less expensive.

Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!

No problem, let me know if you're using it.

Yep, using it right now. I've been printing directly on 1/8" thick glass along with the Acetone/ABS slurry mixture others discuss. Works great.

What are you using to attach the glass build plate to the heated build plate? I have 1/8" glass that fits my Replicator 2x's bed perfectly but I am not sure how to attach it without obstructing the print area.

Thanks in advance!

If you look at the last photo I uploaded, you'll see than I'm using 2 binder clips. It's not perfect since the print-head can actually be moved anywhere on the platform and even outside of it, but during regular printing the clips never get hit. There are a few, more sophisticated solutions to the problem here on Thingiverse but I haven't needed them.