Loading

RepRap Ramps Power Supply Enclosure Raspberry Pi OctoPi

by BigCooter, published

RepRap Ramps Power Supply Enclosure Raspberry Pi OctoPi by BigCooter Sep 10, 2015

Contents

Apps Used

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Makes

Thing Statistics

4824Views 1158Downloads Found in 3D Printing

Summary

Details, links for electronic components & firmware downloads are at http://bigcooter.com/?p=1584!

14-FEB-2016: NOTICE ... working on a larger more stable base module, that will house a Raspberry Pi or other large electronics board. Also making some adjustments to RAMPS board position to allow plugging LCD cables, along with a new module to house the standard LCD displays (I use OctoPi for control, but do like the temp readouts on the LCD).

20-JAN-2016: UPDATE - added sidecover with 2 terminal banana 12V Aux Power Outlet.

Build a low cost cutomizable 3D Printer Power Supply & Electronics enclosure. This is a modular design which can be configured multiple ways to utilize the plentifully low cost (<$30) 360watt power supplies used on many RepRap 3D printers. The standard 40mm high speed noisy fan has been replaced by a quiet large 120mm fan. Optionally, additional boards can be encased in this enclosure, such as: Arduino / Ramps boards, Raspberry Pi board/camera, etc.... The idea is to pick and choose the components to print, then build a customized electronics unit for a 3D printer ... with only minimal remixing and/or making of specialized board brackets. The Raspberry Pi module, enables the use of OctoPi, a fantastic OpenSource 3D printer interface with remote access and camera integration.

NOTE: Reference STL files have been included for all the purchased components, and for the BigCooter Raspberry OctoPi (in My Things at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:713389 )

Design description will be as follows:

Make from universal Power Supply (12 or 24V, 360W)
120mm cooling fan - low noise ... LED lights look great!
modular design - versatile
board mounts for Arduino / Ramps & Rasp Pi - camera
option for mounting 4-Channel 10A Relay board
option for mounting 1-Channel 30A high current relay

Additional modules are coming, and I encourage others to develop their own compatible modules to share (when doing so, please follow the design standards below).

Currently available modules and components:

USB 12V power (for Raspberry Pi and other applications)
Raspberry Pi with camera
7" LCD display
120mm silent cooling fan
RAMPS 1.4 / Arduino
120V cord outlet / on-off switch
30amp heat-bed relay (recommended for RepRap machines w/RAMPS 1.4, prevents over-heating failures / fires, OMG!!!)
Base Cooling Vent / wire router
Oversize swivel base cooling vent with adjustable wire routing
Raspberry Pi Oversize base module

  • in development - oversize modules are for use at base of unit, they provide added stability and larger electronics packaging

Suggestions for New Modules (link to here if you develop any):

Large base, for more stability
Graphical LCD display
Mount for BigCooter 7" LCD Display (see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:676916 )

The blue/black pair of units in attached photos run a large 3D printer. One unit contains Ramps1.4/Arduino and the other unit contains a 4-channel relay board for running a large headbed with 4 heating zones (4 standard size heatbeds). Both units have USB outlets for powering devices and one has a Raspberry OctoPi which uses My Thing 7" LCD display shown in the photos. This demonstrates the versatility of this Enclosure, it can be configured multiple ways! .. resulting in a clean, low noise, professional appearing system.

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aEgCTYQNRkx

Instructions

PLA - black parts
ABS - colored parts

All plastic 3D printed parts have been designed to fit on most standard size print beds. The fully assembled unit approximately 12" tall x 5" wide x 4" deep.

All screws are M3 button head, with no captive nuts (thread PLA plastic using M3 tap, or "self-tap" the screw into the hole). Holes in plastic parts are intentionally undersized to improve hole quality and
size accuracy, resize holes with drill (30 to 3.3mm diameter drill for through holes, and 2.4 to 2.6mm diameter drill for M3 tap).

The included Picatinny 20mm Rails are designed to fasten to 3 sides of the 360W power supply case. This rail is the BigCooter standard mounting system, a widely used, versatile, strong system based on the original MIL spec ... almost anything you can imagine, can be mounted securely on this rail system.

More from 3D Printing

view more

File Name

Downloads

Size

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Do you have versions of the stl's without the tabs? Especially the fan shroud? I don't have problems with items sticking to the bed and don't like the marks these tabs make when peeling them off. Thanks.

Never mind. I was able to edit it and the rails.

I would like to create some addons for this for my printer, but the tinkercad link is no longer valid, can you post a new link?

sorry, I had to change the Tinkercad page to "public" , try it now. The Tinkercad model is rather cluttered up with changes, which makes it slow to load / save ... give it a try. Alternatively, you can import the STL files here into Tinkercad and go from there.

Is the included raspberry pi case actually only supposed to attach to the "rail" on the power supply with one screw?

if not... it needs fixed, because the screw holes don't line up.

If yes... it's pretty unstable. It really needs two screws.

I see the picture.. but they don't line up on the case and rail I printed from the files posted here. Here's a picture of the STL's imported into tinkercad:

http://i.imgur.com/s1n2gIS.png

No matter how i attempt to arrange it, the holes never line up. It's off by at least 5mm.. probably closer to 10mm. I had to end up drilling a new hole in the rail.

I printed everything at 100%, so I didn't shrink the rail or something like that.

Any news on the raspberry pi + lcd modifications? I'm printing this now, and I'd love both of those!

The power supply base v2 file freezes about 10 minutes into the print. at first i thought it was my printer tried to print twice with same result. so i printed a different file from somewhere else and worked fine all fines i print work fine everytime i try to print the power supply base it just freezes.

could it be that there is not enough air flowing over your ramps board? (I assume you did mount the ramps inside this enclosure) ... set your new large fan up so that it is ALWAYS on (some of these power supplies automatically shut fan on / off ... but the ramps might need more air. I wired my fans directly to the 12v screw terminals in the power supply, they are not plugged into the power supply board where the original fan was.

If that isn't the cause of your problem ... and you are sure lots of air is flowing through (these big fans are very quiet, but should move enough air) ... my next guess would be electrical interference .. many suppliers make these power supplies, EMI could be much worse on one and another .. but you could try fashioning an EMI shield, just remember not to get anything conductive near internals that could result in a undesirable "thermal event" .. be safe, and that comment applies to your whole DIY printer ...watch your printer run, setup smoke detectors, remote shut offs, .... etc don't become complacent and assume these things are as safe as all the UL approved appliances in your house!

Top