Axe Z pour smartrapCore (alternative Z axis)

by andreasL Jun 24, 2015
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

hi, When i home it goes the down not up but when i move it manually up it goes up? what do i need to change in Marlin?

What do you mean by
1 d8 20 mm Stub (blu axis near the motor) ? what's a Stub?

Please you can share step version of design?

Those are stl files. Hope it does the job for you.
I aded a STEP of the assembly with standards sliders.

that are perfect i just modify corexy (xy part 20thoot idlers) and want see if your z are compatible becacuse with my self design currently have issues with that part are more simple to check that before print!
thanks too much

my design soon public

Is there any way you would want to share some step files for this project?

Im in the making of a smartrapcore printer and i really want to make a 3d model of the entire printer but im missing the z axis part
since im not using the original.

How is the stability of this axis??

I think to Bulid some of this in My CoreXY but I whant to replace belt and shaft with 12 mm ball screw only, what do you thik?

Hi, Andreas

I have a pair of 10mm rods ready for use, are your files adjustable that I can use these along with LM10 bearings? If not, could you rebuild the affected parts, please?


Just use the lm10 sliders instead of the standards ones ;)

Can you post the step or solidwork files? Or even Onshape files so that I can edit these designs?

I'm building the smartcore printer using 500 mm rods in x,y and z, so my print area is going to be about 400 x 400, but i think that i'm going to be in troubles because the bed support + bed will be too heavy, and the pulley will no have traction using the original z support.

Can i use the original support combined with your enhanced one to get more lift up?

not sure what "enhanced ones" you're talking about.
You can put two motors corners and wire them juste like you would do on a i3. This should provide you a lot of lift power !

Hi Andreas, i mean your alternative z axis

Comments deleted.

hey andreas as I am self sourcing and building wooden smartrapcore can you tell me smooth rod lengths for this
by the way m building 300x300x300 printer, I just increased wall and xy rod sizes by 100mm so I can do the same with z rod

Comments deleted.

can I use this with 300x300x300 wooden smartrapcore without modifying anything except rod lengths
EDIT: thx ,yeah will try

Yes you can, but make sure to have a very light wooden frame , llike some 5mm mdf.

Have fun !

Edit : make sure the rods are 10mm in diameter !

I mirrored the motor mount and added a second motor to mine.....using 12mm MDF 300 x 300 bed and it works just fine.

thinking about using this kind of z axis in my own machine, kind of similar design to the smartrapcore, and wondering why does the frame weight matter? Thanks, this is a really cool z axis idea!

Using an heavy frame might conduct to have the stepper missing some steps !
A light frame will ease the work of the motor :)

ok! thanks for the quick response! do you have any videos anywhere of this system working?

I have never done any...
Maybe Bruno Bellamy posted some on YouTube...

Won't those bed support parts melt if you're printing abs on a heated bed and those parts were printed in pla?

They will ! But I avent been using a hot bed since a looong time.... I Woolf recomend you to use some metalic screw to dix your hotbed on the woodbed

This is my version of this excellent design for the Smartrapcore Alu - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1417053

AndreasL Dual z axis Smartrapcore ALU DjDemonD remix for 2020 with counterweight

Hi, I am working on a remix of this for the Alu version. Are you happy for me to publish it - if it works, with proper attribution? I intend to only remix the parts that would be different i.e. the top and bottom brackets. I have some designs together and am planning to test it over the next few days.

a friend of mine is working on an adaptation kit for the smartrapcore alu, using only the original design, it it's easier to keep upgrading without fusther modifications.
It souhld be released at the end of the week !
If you feel like it, you can publish your work too :)

I'm very interested in the adaptation kit !!

Do you plan to do a version compatible with the SmartrapCore Alu?

You can find some bed clippers, which are more optimised to clip or remove the glass bed


Another idea - as you can see in my "I made it photo", I'm using top parts upside down and swapped L and R. This way I can get like 5mm more of Z axis travel - I have a led strip glued on the top of the box, so if I use your parts the correct way - they'll be overlapping with the led strip or I'll have to move it a tad down, shortening the Z axis travel a bit. On the other hand there is a drawback this way - one of the screews is not easily accessible (it is behind the belt).

As a hint - could you provide the best acceleration, feedrate and Z homing speed? I've asked Bruno on the forum about it, but it would be great to gather all the info and paste it here. In my case the mdf bed + thick acrylic build plate is quiet heavy, so these numbers are critical, otherwise it skips sometimes.

Hi Andreas, I want to attach the rods at two corners of the printer frame. This way it will be possible for me to use already existing infrastructure so I don't have to print more parts or drill/screw in the frame.

Do you think that a much longer version (on the diagonal) is going to bind or will the cantilevered free-corners be a problem?


So, I don't relly get your request, could you be more precise ?

I just printed the top spool parts and the spools, and the spools wont fit into the top parts, they are too wide.

Sorry about it, I^can't check it now, but I will ASAP

I've checked this - it's okay if your printer is tuned well. But for others - it would be good to have the top parts 0.5-1mm wider.

Other thing - I've printed those spools and mounted, but there is a diagonal line from the slider to the top part with spooled bearing. Which means that we will have different movement at the different heights with the same steps. To fix it we will need to move top bearings axis closer to the wall.

Or do I need to reprint the whole stuff?

You are right about the diagonal, but if you do the math, you'll find that the Z hysteresis caused by this geometry is not important. The X and Y axix suffer from the same problem, but it's not that important.

Anyway, if you want to correct it, you may start with the belts atachments on the sliders, but you should also move the corners bearing's axis to get the right alignment.

Dunno, but this geometry looks bad to me. Also it is getting stuck at the top position because of this. I'll try to investigate this more.

I'll try to move the bearing axis just on the top parts and see if it's doable.

Ok, i'm updating the full thing right now. You will have de files for the sliders in a moment ( 2 hours i think )
I'll also update the corners, but you won't have to re-print it if you don't want to.

Update done !

You may just reprint up parts, sliders and spools.

Great! Thanks a lot!
Could you please explain why I don't need to reprint the bottom corners?

yeah of course. I juste moved the bearings axis 1mm sideway, so if you dont use the 3 last cm of your Z axis you wont need to reprint it. Anyway, I may recomend to reprint those parts to... so you'll have the full release ;)

Think about printing the optional bearing parts ! ( i added a picture of what it looks likes)

Comments deleted.

Full upgrade feels much better to me) Thanks again for a quick fix.
I'll try to print them tonight if I'll manage to fix my Z axis somehow.

Also, the bearing on the motor plate is a wonderful idea, I'm on it! ))))

By zthe way,spools are only needed for the upper bearings and the optionnal 1 (3 spools in all)

One more question but an important one I guess for non-standard sized Smartrapcores.
I rendered the parts for the smartrapcore with a slighlty bigger print volume, not necessarily for printing bigger but to have more space in all directions if I choose to use a different hotend mount or a dual hotend. This way I have more clearance for extra stuff.
Currently it is:

Print width: 211mm
Print height : 205mm
Print depth : 208mm

That means that your wooden bed won't fit my build. I think that the print width determines the wooden bed length.
So could I just add these extra 11mm to the center of the print bed and adjust the mounting holes for the heatbed??
Without having the construction files this will become a game of guessing and hoping that the (adjusted) laser cut mdf bed fits the build.

sorry about these files, i have to change them. It seems that my printer ( one of the first smartrap core ) is not standard in width,

If I upload you a normalized file for the standard smartrapcore, will you be able to put it to scale ? ( AI file)

My one is 250250250 volume build.
Once i print the part, i measure the distance between suport and take a piece of wood equal to measure.
I bet it work !

better use the drawing with measurment i posted in the pictures.

If that means that I just need to add the '+' size (like in my case 211mm instead of 200mm print width, so +11mm) somewhere in the Ai file then I am fine. That would be great.

I also think about building a standard smartrapcore. Meaning 200x200x200 (or 150mm for the Z axis as it is in the openjscad file by default) print folume (X/Y/Z)

I aded the promissed drowing :)

Comments deleted.

Question about top_left_spool.stl and up_l.stl ...
It looks like these are more or less the same. Which should we print and why did you add the top_left_spool.stl??

I need the slider with a 12mm-12.2mm hole for the bearing as I use sintered bearings. May you please upload an STEP or IGES file of it so I can modify it?

You should use Top *** spool parts + 2 bearing spools.

On the "up" parts, the belt was running directly on the bearing, and some misalignment may occur.

Can you link us up to your bearings ?

I'm going to make you a special part ;)

The file is on ;)

Print, enjoy and think about clicking the "i made one" button ;)

Woot that was fast. In the meantime I fired up fusion360 and managed to mod the stl file aswell and printed it. But that somehow is a real mess, working with brep converted mesh files.
12.2mm prints out just fine for the bearings.

These are the bearings: http://www.ebay.de/itm/161617346233?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I am interested in adding this to my recently finished SmartRap Core. However, I am a little confused as to what parts are needed. I have some beginner questions:

There is only one STL for the slider (other than the custom ones you made). Do we just print a mirror image of the one for the other side)?

The slider has a place to attach the belt integral to the part. But you also have the piece which screws in to attach the belt to. Is that simply in addition to the integral holder?

What are the additional pieces listed in the Thing Files? For example, the supprt_bed.STL and the tendeur_couroie.STL?

The slider part is made in a way that you can use it on the left or the right, without any mirroring. Just print 2 parts !

Sliders have built in belt attachment. The part you are talking about ( Joint_couroie_corps and Joint_couroie_couvercle) are here to "close the loop" of your open belt (see pictures)

Support_bed are the 4 parts witch are screwd on the wooden bed to put the MK2 and the glass on (green on the CAD)
Tendeur_couroie is just a wave belt tensioner, to adjust the tension of your belt after you closed the loop

Feel free to ask anithing if it's still unclear to you. :)

Same with me - I see supprt_bed.STL, but I don't see the moving thing to hold the glass in place. Can you upload it? Thanks!

These moving parts are included in the Smartrap Core STL files here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651117/#files
it's in sc_12_plate2.stl


ok,tks !
I added "glass lock" part. :)

Thanks! Printed and happily using it =)

Do you plan on making version with the spools against belt rubbing on the bearings?

Thing was udpaded yesterday, witch spools ( print "top left spool" and "top right spool" + 2 bearing spools
its not needed on the "corner" parts, since there is no reason for the belt to slip off the bearings.

Please, add a "i made one" with some photos and a comment ;)

Comments deleted.

Can i have a openjscad file for the slider ?
I would like to use LM10UU bearing instead LM08UU.


Native files are solidworks models

There, i've uploaded a slider for the LM10.

Thank so much !!!

Salut Andreas,
Aurais-tu les fichiers source, car je voudrais adapter les chariots pour des douilles Igus à la place des LM08UU ?
(Dimensions des Igus RJMP-01-08 : D16*L25mm - D.int.8mm)

hello, je t'upload une version spéciale adapté de suite

C'est super gentil Andreas, grand merci à toi !

Voila qui est fait.

Pour info, ce design va bientot migrer sur onshape, et sera donc modifiable facilement par tout-un chacun. (c'estp our ca que je ne donne pas les sources )

Un grand merci à toi andreas ! C'est parfait ;)

OnShape le principe est bien mais 5 docs seulement par utilisateur ou 1200€ par an, ça fait mal !
Ou alors il faut avoir 250 comptes différents, mais ça aide pas un maker à se faire un nom ;)

Encore grand merci !


PS et j'oubliais, bravo pour ton travail et merci pour le partager.

5 documents actifs ! En fait le bridage est quasiment inexistant, et n empêche pas d avoir bcp plus de projets !

Merci pour la précision, je voyais ça plus restreint.


Have you had any issues with your carriages rubbing against the wooden frame?

nop, no problem with the carriage, there is not a lot of clearance, but far enough to me.

I meant with larger prints that are heavy, do the guide rods bow outward and cause the sliders to rub against the wall. Is that why you added the tab on the rear of the sliders? I ask beacuse i would like to use this Z carriage design to make a larger print bed

This should not happend !!
The tabs are meant to be able to put 2 m3 screw to tighten the lm08.

Bonsoir andreasL,
Quelles seraient les modifs à apporter pour un MQ3 vs MQ2. Il me semble qu'ils ont la même taille (214x214)....

Dans ce cas seul les supports du bed seraient à modifier, il me semble que le MK3 ne fait pas la même épaisseur que le MK2

yee good idea... thanks for sharing..

This solution is awesome!!! Thank You for sharing.

Rooooooooooooooooooooo, punaise,,,, génial. Parce que quand tu tapes dans du 250x250 en plateau, le porte-à-faux, bonjour.