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Javelin Giant Glider .38 Meters

by exosequitur, published

Javelin Giant Glider .38 Meters by exosequitur May 17, 2013

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Summary

A giant evolution of my monarch glider with a full, low profile airfoil. Flies very well, best with a rubber strap launch. About 8 Meters of 3mm ABS to build.

The javelin (aka mega monarch) screams confidence and courage, a statement to all that you do not fear being impaled by a giant unguided plastic missile.

For another large (.35 meters) glider that is easier to print and fly, while giving stunning glide performance and thermaling capability, check out the cloud fliers at http://threedsy.com

For tips on printing these, drop by my blog at http://threedsy-com.myshopify.com/blogs/news

An unbranded version of this model is available at threedsy.com

If you want to learn how to design amazing, highly functional designs for 3d printing, design and print useful repair parts, and generally print useful stuff faster, more reliably, and with less problems check out my books, Functional design for 3D printing and the Zombie Apocalypse Guide to 3D Printing on Amazon!

If you like my gliders, check out my other models here on thingiverse and more models and books I wrote on 3D Design and 3D Printing here at threedsy.com

Instructions

Description: A large (380mm wingspan) efficient conventional glider, ideal for looping flights and long glides.

Plastic: ABS

Layers: .15mm

Fill: 25% (75% for clips)

Perimeters: 2 (3 for clips)

Solid Layers: 2

filament use / weight (3mm) : Approx 7500mm

Orientation:
Wings: First layer spanwise
Empenage: First layer fore and aft
Fuselage : 45 degrees to axis
Clips : 45 degrees to axis

Alternate 90 degrees by layer (usually this is automatic).

Caution:
This is not a plane for rank beginners. It requires carefull printing, preparation, assembly, adjustment, and flight. If you have not assembled flying models before, this may not be your best first choice unless you are rather competent with model assembly skills.

This glider is slightly less dangerous in a impact with a human than the old 1970's lawn darts or a lower powered bow and arrow with target points. It is called the javelin for a reason.

Do not fly a glider of this weight where it might hit someone or damage property. A good rule of thumb is not to fly a glider of this size where it would be innapropriate to use a bow and arrow. This glider is heavy, will break windows if it hits them, and could in a narrow but not entirely unlikely set of circumstances, seriously injure its hapless pilot or an unweary passerby.

Build Notes:
Allow to cool before carefully removing from build platform. The wings and empenage are easily deformed during removal, and must be absoultely symmetrical for proper flight. Removal with a very thin plastic spatula (print one!) is preferred. Fully test fit and trim / sand all parts prior to gluing with generous application of CA Adhesive (superglue).

After printing all of the parts, trim any excess plastic or artifacts.

The wing clips are asymetrical to give dihedral to the wing. The clips must be oriented so as to cause the wingtips to rise toward the top (curved surface) side. the wings should be joined with enough pressure to remove any excess space, creating a solid assembly of the two wings and the seven joining clips. Practice and check this assembly proceedure. The clips may require sanding on their flat sides to be properly square and of the precise size to fit into the fuselage. Test fitting this assembly is critical for a good build.

Test fit the fuselage halves, the wings into the wing clips, the empenage, and the assembled wing section into the assembled fuselage, including the canopy and top strap. Trim or sand parts to make any required adjustments.

Assemble the rudder into the horizontal stabilizer with the smooth (bed) side of the stablilizer up. Glue all mating surfaces.

Assemble the wings into the clips, ensuring that symetry is maintained an that there is no space between the blocks. The blocks shuld be aligned so as to give the appearance of a single piece. Carefully glue together, using glue on all mating surfaces.

Join the fuselage halves, checking that they are perfectly straight and aligned. Glue any mating surfaces.

Insert the assembled wing assembly into the joined fuselage halves, seeing that the joining blocks fit down snugly into the provided space and that the top of the wing assembly is of the same height as the fuselage.

Dry fit the canopy and top strap into place, using the canopy tab in the provided slots. See that all fits correctly, and that the alignment holes (use a round toothpick for pins) are corectly aligned. Test fit the empenage assembly to see that it fits with the properly positioned top strap and canopy installed.

Once you are satisfied that all is well, glue the wing assembly into the fuselage, glue on the canopy and top strap, and glue on the empenage, ensuring that it is properly seated and aligned. Glue in the launch hook, check overall alignment and rigging, then saturate any remaining cracks with glue, giving ample time to dry or using an accelerant.

Flight Notes:
Be sure to test and fly this airplane in a large, open area free of spectators or easily damaged property. A space equivelant to a baseball field is required, at a minimum.

Test and adjust by hand launching first.

Catapault launching is done with a 6+ foot launching strap of 3/8" x 1/8" rubber, or something equivelant. Fix one end of the strap to the ground with a secure stake (careful that it does not become a human seeking projectile) and tie on a 6-10 foot length of string (1/16" diameter might be a good choice), with a large loop(2-3 inches) to engage the launch hook. Small diameter rubber or plastic tubing on the launch loop section of the string helps to ensure clean launches.

After testing the glider by hand launching and making any needed adjustments, use the launch catapault by hooking the launch loop on the hook and stretching out the band while holding the glider by the tail section. Position the glider close (6-12") to the ground in a level attitude with the band stretched and the glider pointed in a safe direction prior to release. Note that the glider may loop and hit you from behind if it is not properly adjusted, potentially causing injury. Experiment with different lengths of rubber and string for different flight profiles.

A slight elevator - up reflex is required for non-inverted flight. This is built into the aft end of the fuselage and should work without intervention assuming the airplane is properly assembled.

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Printed one in PLA following instructions exactly. Cog at dead wing center, so some weight at nose may be needed. I tried fo fly it with a small slingshot. It flew well for a few feet then landed. Obviously the slingshot is way underpowered. This thing takes a weapon grade rubber launcher and I don't think launching by one hand is possible. And it will be dangerous with that much kinetic energy being carried. I don't think I'll ever launch it in fear of litigation.

I Made one. Flight good. My son find it great.

I made one and it was slightly nose heavy so i modified it by putting a spare rocket fin on the underside to help with stability and to locate the cg in the correct place. It took me around 4 hours to print and build on my Printerbot simple metal at 75% scale. Thanks for the design.

Could you split all the parts of the fuselage kit? I need some of the minor parts only.

Can It be printed with PLA instead of ABS ?

check out http://www.thingiverse.com/make:38748http://www.thingiverse.com/mak..., looks like it worked for him. Not sure where the CG would end up at 15% fill, but you can always add weight if needed. The CG should be at or (<10mm) foreward of mid-wing, if the plane acts erraticly it is probably because the CG is too far aft, making it unstable.

Javelin Giant Glider .38 Meters
by Yoniweb

Possibly, especially with some of the less brittle types. You will need to find a glue that works well to assemble it, and it will end up a little bit heavier.

Ok thanks! I'll try it out.

Why is everything always printed in ABS ? I would think PLA has so many advantages (more precise parts, lower temperature printing, no toxic gases, etc.) ?

ive been experimenting with PLA, especialy witht he more flexible types. One of the problems I have encountered is the wide variation in PLA and the brtittleness , weight, and difficult gluing. ABS seems to be a little more uniform across suppliers, and is easier to tune for smooth membrane prints.

I've been using PLA from Ultimachine for almost two years now. It's some pretty tough stuff.

Would it also be possible to print on 0.3mm layers?

I think you might have some weight and structural issues on .30, as the minimum solid thickness (2 layers is required for strength) would be doubled.

Ok clear, I have been experimenting with printing 0.125mm layer height, and worked so 0.15mm should be doable also.

Takes 3 hours per wing in this layer height. How long did your printing take?

About 50 minutes a wing, like 1350 mm (3mm dia) of filament each. I print at 60 to 70 mm/sec on marlin firmware.

Damn.. I need to get rid of this crappy Reprap Air and build a grown-up machine pfffff

This is what I've been waiting for! :D

Yeshhhhhh <3

Today I went to the park to shoot my Monarch, Sparrow and Strator, but this is what I wanted, bigger! :)

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