A giant evolution of my monarch glider with a full, low profile airfoil. Flies very well, best with a rubber strap launch. About 8 Meters of 3mm ABS to build.
The javelin (aka mega monarch) screams confidence and courage, a statement to all that you do not fear being impaled by a giant unguided plastic missile.
For another large (.35 meters) glider that is easier to print and fly, while giving stunning glide performance and thermaling capability, check out the cloud fliers at http://threedsy.com
For tips on printing these, drop by my blog at http://threedsy-com.myshopify.com/blogs/news
An unbranded version of this model is available at threedsy.com
If you want to learn how to design amazing, highly functional designs for 3d printing, design and print useful repair parts, and generally print useful stuff faster, more reliably, and with less problems check out my books, Functional design for 3D printing and the Zombie Apocalypse Guide to 3D Printing on Amazon!
If you like my gliders, check out my other models here on thingiverse and more models and books I wrote on 3D Design and 3D Printing here at threedsy.com
Description: A large (380mm wingspan) efficient conventional glider, ideal for looping flights and long glides.
Fill: 25% (75% for clips)
Perimeters: 2 (3 for clips)
Solid Layers: 2
filament use / weight (3mm) : Approx 7500mm
Wings: First layer spanwise
Empenage: First layer fore and aft
Fuselage : 45 degrees to axis
Clips : 45 degrees to axis
Alternate 90 degrees by layer (usually this is automatic).
This is not a plane for rank beginners. It requires carefull printing, preparation, assembly, adjustment, and flight. If you have not assembled flying models before, this may not be your best first choice unless you are rather competent with model assembly skills.
This glider is slightly less dangerous in a impact with a human than the old 1970's lawn darts or a lower powered bow and arrow with target points. It is called the javelin for a reason.
Do not fly a glider of this weight where it might hit someone or damage property. A good rule of thumb is not to fly a glider of this size where it would be innapropriate to use a bow and arrow. This glider is heavy, will break windows if it hits them, and could in a narrow but not entirely unlikely set of circumstances, seriously injure its hapless pilot or an unweary passerby.
Allow to cool before carefully removing from build platform. The wings and empenage are easily deformed during removal, and must be absoultely symmetrical for proper flight. Removal with a very thin plastic spatula (print one!) is preferred. Fully test fit and trim / sand all parts prior to gluing with generous application of CA Adhesive (superglue).
After printing all of the parts, trim any excess plastic or artifacts.
The wing clips are asymetrical to give dihedral to the wing. The clips must be oriented so as to cause the wingtips to rise toward the top (curved surface) side. the wings should be joined with enough pressure to remove any excess space, creating a solid assembly of the two wings and the seven joining clips. Practice and check this assembly proceedure. The clips may require sanding on their flat sides to be properly square and of the precise size to fit into the fuselage. Test fitting this assembly is critical for a good build.
Test fit the fuselage halves, the wings into the wing clips, the empenage, and the assembled wing section into the assembled fuselage, including the canopy and top strap. Trim or sand parts to make any required adjustments.
Assemble the rudder into the horizontal stabilizer with the smooth (bed) side of the stablilizer up. Glue all mating surfaces.
Assemble the wings into the clips, ensuring that symetry is maintained an that there is no space between the blocks. The blocks shuld be aligned so as to give the appearance of a single piece. Carefully glue together, using glue on all mating surfaces.
Join the fuselage halves, checking that they are perfectly straight and aligned. Glue any mating surfaces.
Insert the assembled wing assembly into the joined fuselage halves, seeing that the joining blocks fit down snugly into the provided space and that the top of the wing assembly is of the same height as the fuselage.
Dry fit the canopy and top strap into place, using the canopy tab in the provided slots. See that all fits correctly, and that the alignment holes (use a round toothpick for pins) are corectly aligned. Test fit the empenage assembly to see that it fits with the properly positioned top strap and canopy installed.
Once you are satisfied that all is well, glue the wing assembly into the fuselage, glue on the canopy and top strap, and glue on the empenage, ensuring that it is properly seated and aligned. Glue in the launch hook, check overall alignment and rigging, then saturate any remaining cracks with glue, giving ample time to dry or using an accelerant.
Be sure to test and fly this airplane in a large, open area free of spectators or easily damaged property. A space equivelant to a baseball field is required, at a minimum.
Test and adjust by hand launching first.
Catapault launching is done with a 6+ foot launching strap of 3/8" x 1/8" rubber, or something equivelant. Fix one end of the strap to the ground with a secure stake (careful that it does not become a human seeking projectile) and tie on a 6-10 foot length of string (1/16" diameter might be a good choice), with a large loop(2-3 inches) to engage the launch hook. Small diameter rubber or plastic tubing on the launch loop section of the string helps to ensure clean launches.
After testing the glider by hand launching and making any needed adjustments, use the launch catapault by hooking the launch loop on the hook and stretching out the band while holding the glider by the tail section. Position the glider close (6-12") to the ground in a level attitude with the band stretched and the glider pointed in a safe direction prior to release. Note that the glider may loop and hit you from behind if it is not properly adjusted, potentially causing injury. Experiment with different lengths of rubber and string for different flight profiles.
A slight elevator - up reflex is required for non-inverted flight. This is built into the aft end of the fuselage and should work without intervention assuming the airplane is properly assembled.