The Osprey Hand by Alderhand and e-Nable

by profbink, published

The Osprey Hand by Alderhand and e-Nable by profbink Jul 4, 2015
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E-Nable and Alderhand are pleased to announce the arrival of the Osprey! The Osprey was built in Blender based on the low-poly interior and robust components of the original Raptor Hand, but now sports an attractive fairing and a very durable and comfortable low-profile universal-fit bracer.
The osprey (Pandion haliaetus), sometimes known as the fish eagle, sea hawk, river hawk, or fish hawk, is a diurnal, fish-eating bird of prey. (Wikipedia)
This device was named the Osprey because it is a Raptor, but optimized for the use of heavy gauge nylon monofilament, most widely available as fishing line. The large mono has excellent Bowden properties, so the cables are pulled to provide flexion and pushed to provide extension. This device requires neither elastics nor springs nor any mechanical extension system.
Heavy gauge nylon monofilament is an excellent cabling material. It is generally inexpensive, and available as landscapers' trimmer line, nylon or Bridge nylon 3d printer filament, and as deep sea fishing leader line. Running through joints, it doesn't abrade at all, so there's no "sawing" of printed plastic. Nylon is very strong, so it is rarely a point of failure for mechanical devices. But probably its greatest quality is its resistance to linear compression, so it pushes as well as pulls, like the bicycle cabling used to change gears.
Elastic resistance is a major drawback to many assistive devices, because resistance reduces a device's grip strength. Furthermore, as an elastic-extended device approaches full actuation, resistance from elastics increases, so that it may be quite difficult for a user to grasp small objects. Designs which reduce or eliminate elastic resistance are a welcome development.
Pay particular attention to the new bill of materials. The Cyborg Beast, the original Raptor and the Raptor Reloaded hardware kits are not compatible with the Osprey. However, the Osprey does use the same hardware as the Gamma Raptor. Materials kits and tool kits should be available in the near future, so stay tuned.
In this version:
Elastic-free Bowden cable design; enclosed channels provide enhanced cable control
Vestigial dorsal extension channels can now be used for knuckle vise, other secondary tools, or electronics.
Fairing has a new aesthetic.
Pin-and-Proximal sets to manage tolerances ("A" is loosest; "D" is tightest)
Very durable low-profile universal fit bracer(gauntlet)

Update 2015-7-14
Palm v.2.1 The thumb has been rotated to better oppose the fingers. This affected the palm stencil, which was also updated.

Update 2015-8-26
Support material was removed from proximal phalanges. Let me know if you miss it. The hinge on the distals was bulked up, since it was a common point of failure under heavy lifting.

Update 2015-9-16
I added a new bracer/gauntlet. This fits the Osprey aesthetic better, and it has easier-to-remove support material. The old bracer will probably become part of the Gamma Raptor design.

Update 2015-11-23
Updated bracer and palm, and removed the old versions. Added 3/4" triglide buckle. Added proximal "key" to help determine which proximal tolerance best fits in the palm.

Update 2016-6-16 Instructions have improved a lot, so please have a look.
Replaced proximal and distal phalanges: improved mechanical performance.

Update 2017-10-19
Added a printable bracer stencil that will fit most clients just fine. After fitting, any overlapping leather can be trimmed if needed, but on most clients that won't be necessary.
Added sets of snap pins that are more compatible with PLA. The original pins were calculated for ABS, which is softer. So they were pretty difficult to insert in PLA builds. These PLA pins have longer tines that bend better.
Added D-Ring buckle. This is a good secure closure for the loose-weave nylon webbing.

Added pin tongs and a pin pusher, to help with the insertion and removal of snap pins.



Instructions are improved continuously, so go back often.

This assembly video provides a brief look at the assembly process:


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Hi, excellent design!

Do you have the stl files of the fingers separately? I wanted to print the 5 and one failed .... I would not want to do all of them again. Thank you

No problem. I just added a .zip file containing separate finger .stl files. The pointer and ring finger are exactly the same, so there are four files. Let me know if you need anything else.

Hi, thanks for the files.
I have a problem and maybe you can help me ..... in all, absolutely all the files you download from thingiverse I have the problem that the dimensions in X and Y are 0.4mm bigger, so the pieces do not fit me perfectly, in the Z axis I have no problems, I think that as the nozzle is 0.4mm leaves me an offset of 0.2 for each side, and that's why the piece comes out bigger ..... there is some configuration to compensate for that offset ? I use simplify .... thanks again

Hi! I want to print it on ABS, what kind of configuration do you recommend? Thank you!!

Detailed instructions are linked under Thing Details. The Google document has everything you need to know. For ABS, i'd suggest 0.2-0.3mm layers, with a brim but no support. Nozzle temp 248C bed temp 95C and no fan, or at most 25%. Then after basic post-print cleanup, use acetone vapor to smooth off the prints. Please do look at the instructions for guidance, especially if you're making an Osprey hand to fit a person.

So we need to print out every single file correct?

No, don't print everything.
Once you have determined proper print scale, print the palm (left or right) and the OSPproximalABCDKey. Then use the key to determine which letter (A, B, C, or D) represents the best mechanical tolerance for your circumstance. Then print 5 proximals of that letter and one set of pins of that letter. Print everything else at the same scale, except for the triglides. Select the triglide that corresponds with the width of nylon strap you are using and print two, at 100% scale.
I hope this helps.

Comments deleted.

What are the holes for on the white part of the hand that are on the top for ?

If you look at the photos you will see there is some metal hardware. Flat headed screws attach the leather and the straps. And set screws secure the cables. Two screws on each cable, for a secure connection. The screws bite directly into the plastic.

how do you clean out the wire holes when printed with support material

As per the instructions, print with no support material. In your slicer settings, support should be turned off.
These models all have built-in support, which breaks off easily after printing. If you're printing in ABS, you may want to add some brim (if your slicer supports it) but in PLA, these components should all print great with neither brim nor support.
If you have support material in the long channels of the bracer, you can drill them out with a long drill bit. If you have support material in the curved channels of the palm, you had better just re-print that component without support.
If it were me, I'd reprint everything (except the pins) with no support. Otherwise, you will spend too much time removing support material.

Is this still the case with the newest version of the palm? I am unable to print this component without supports on a standard Prusa i2. I haven't even tried the bracer, but looking at the model, it doesn't look like it will print either.

I'm not sure why you're unable to print the palm. Maybe your nozzle temps are too high, so you're getting too much slumping. All the components have printed successfully at scales between 100% and 200% on a variety of printers. I would suggest fiddling with your printer settings.

Comments deleted.

I probably should have updated. I have a number of problems with my printer that were making this unprintable. A combination of warped glass on my heated build platform, an issue with my z-axis couplers slowly sliding off the motors, and play on the y-axis seem to be the main causes. I am in the process of replacing my bed with an aluminum one and silicon heater, and then I'm gonna replace my z-axis couplers, and install a y-belt tensioner, after that I don't expect it will continue to be a problem.
p.s. Sorry for the deleted comments, Thingiverse gives me no indication that clicking the, "Post Comment" button actually works, so I hit it multiple times, when nothing seemed to be happening.

That's the dirty little secret about consumer 3d printers. They are temperamental and may often need adjustment and repair.

Very true, but that's part of what makes the hobby fun, at least to me.

Comments deleted.

Printed and posted feedback on the forum. Awesome design!

Wonderful piece of work, Peter and all!


Thank you Laird. :) This should greatly simplify the Hand-O-Matic process. Since the bracer is now a universal fit, we can just focus on the palm of the device fitting around the palm of the client.