IMPORTANT NOTE: While this thing did seem to help cooling around bridging, it doesn't do much else except get in the way of the screwdown at XY home and disrupt your ability to view your print job. I'll leave this up as something others can work on, but I don't recommend people using this particular air shroud.
I noticed that the Printrbot LC cooling was less than optimal...it blows all over the place instead of directly on what needs to be cooled. This has an impact on bridging, stickiness, etc. This is a first attempt at directing the air flow directly at the just-extruded plastic, to see if it makes a difference. If you'd like to try the same, feel free to use this and please report your results back here.
Sorry for the crappy photos.
v2: Narrowed the bottom, but did not raise it. It didn't affect print quality. Note that in v1, if you are not clamping on a piece of glass on the default bed, you may hit the hand-adjust screw near home. Not ideal. Hopefully this is better. FWIW, I've had a hard time with the hand-adjust screws, so I'm turning them upside-down and just using a screwdriver.
This is EXPERIMENTAL. I claim no responsibility for your printer, what you print, or any damage which may occur!
Improvements which could be made:
- bring the bottom closer to the extruder
- bring the bottom up closer, to be extra-safe that it doesn't impact the piece being printed
- smooth the interior to reduce air drag
- horizontally tighten the air direction (risk of blowing the first strands of bridging out of place?)
- use a zap strap instead of garden wire! (I have no idea where my zap straps went)
This design does require bridging, so you'll want to be somewhat calibrated. If you think that you can't use this because you can't bridge, but this would likely help you do bridging, inquire with some kind soul to print you a copy of this :)