BadWolf GT2B Case mod v2

by bjornw, published

BadWolf GT2B Case mod v2 by bjornw Jul 12, 2015


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My updated version of a case for a slimmed down version of the popular GT2B transmitter.
Some of the updates are:

  • Original screws to hold the case together (now you only need to supply 2 x 3m screws + nuts for the pcb and potentiometer)
  • Using existing powerswitch with a printed extension
  • Can accommodate the included 800mah battery
  • Hole for the bind button
  • A few mm slimmer then v1 and with lots rounded edges


Here's a great tutorial with lots of pictures:

To assemble you'll need;
2 x 680 ohm resistors (solder where on the inputs to the unused channel)
1 x M3 14mm screw (to hold trigger)
1 x M3 4mm screw (PCB)
2 x M3 nuts

You need to cut off the red areas indicated in the third photo, also cut the bind button as short as possible. The usb-jack needs to be desoldered, add 2 wires (about 10cm) for 5v and ground between the pcb and jack for charging the lipo.
The lipo-battery that comes with the transmitter is about 50% rubber, so peeling back the label and removing the rubber pieces on either side makes it a lot slimmer so you can hot glue it to one side of the case. Don't forget to add electrical/gaffers tape around the battery as not to short it with the pcb.

When you're done do a transmitter calibration on your ESC.

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I had tried several prints of this, both (ABS to smooth) and PLA, but the rounded edges never stays perfect at the bottom, it is possible to disponiblize one version without that? i mean, straight or similar? Thank you.

There are many "GT2B" Transmitters available. Both Hobbyking and FlySky have their versions. Are they the same? It appears Hobbyking cloned FlySky's version, but will both be the same under the hood? :)

Is support needed? Or can I just print it as is?

what do you use the gt2b for?

Motorized electric longboard! =)

How long did this took to print in medium or high resolution?

Depending on your printer it will take somewhere between 3 - 5 hours.

Comments deleted.

Will probably not make a version where you don't have to move the usb-port and yes you can use the same wires. Good luck!

Can you give more detailed instructions on de-soldering the usb port?

Comments deleted.

Does this still let you get to the third channel? I think it is a push button, could be useful for lights or stuff.

This model doesn't have any hole for a switch, since most people will be using just the 2nd channel or already have a switch in special size in their components drawer they want to use.

Its really easy to dremel/cut a hole in your favorite 3d modeling software if you want to use a push switch or a single pole single throw switch on the 3rd channel. I'm planning to add a switch to control some WS2812B RGB LEDs under my board.

I thought the button might be on the board (haven't received my controller yet). I just printed the case out so just waiting for it to arrive.
I'll just cut a hole and use a switch if I decide to add LEDs to my board.

The switch for the 3rd channel is on another small pcb in the middle of the handle connected with 3 wires to the main pcb of the unmodified controller. It's a small smd tactile switch so I wouldn't recommend repurposing it as its not the easiest to work with..

It would be nice indeed :D

Picture is now updated! I've heard some people using it without the resistors and it works fine, but the transmitters I've used all need to have some type of input on the 1st channel to start transmitting.

Seems nice :)
Do you have a picture where you soldered the resistors?


You should solder the resistors between the middle pin and the outer pins on the unused channel, otherwise it won't start to transmit. I will update the photo with how I soldered mine. =)

How many watts should the resistor be?

Standard through-hole 1/4 watt are fine