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Speed Boat 3 RC

by wersy, published

Speed Boat 3 RC by wersy Jul 17, 2015
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Summary

I broaden the front part of the hull so there it could may be possible to drive it also with an air propeller.
To day I tested the air propeller but I had only a 2 cells lipo and that wasn't enough to make really speed.
The powerful inboard outrunner was driven with 4 cells lipo and made the boat by far much faster.
https://youtu.be/qRDI_Ux5wrI
Update 07.31.2015
To day I tested the air propeller with another motor (STORM 1806 2300kv) and with a 4 cells lipo. Its much faster now:
https://youtu.be/yqHt3sAv-RI
But it isn't optimized yet. Full throttle pushes the bow down and breaks the speed.
Attention
Use the propeller mount with the protection ring only in still air, otherwise it will capsize for sure!
That's why I designed the slim version "propeller mount slim".

The hull consists of 4 parts, the longest is 180mm, or 140 mm if you take another combination. Anyway, I uploaded the complete hull, so you can slice it in pieces as long as you like. This is very easy to do with netfabb or another program. If you have difficulties, I can do it for you, but the smallest possible part is 130mm.

https://youtu.be/VMiSrvlvjjw

Update 08.24.2015
The third try was made with two propellers
http://youtu.be/bLIIah6aCVQ
https://youtu.be/sKNVVHtIEF8

Update 09.25.2015
A new video from a boat prited in PET by abcona:
https://youtu.be/PcmQxUKALkk

Update 12.20.2015
Uploaded sterntube test 7.4mm
This is for a test print if you want to use a sterntube with 6mm OD.

Update 01.03.2016
I added "hull back 190". You can still use a part of the interface. Just cut off about 25mm of the more norrow part of the interface.
So you don't need to print the "hull back 140" and the "hull middle 50".

Update 04.08.2016
"Nanafalke" did split the hull front 180 in two pieces (hull_front_40 and hull front 140) for smaller printers.
The parts are now available for download.
Thank you Sami

Update 06.11.2016
I uploaded hull_front_270

Update Oct 24, 2016
I uploaded hull_bow_129 and deleted hull_front _40

So if you can only print up to 140mm you can use this combination:
hull bow 129
hull front 140
hull middle 50
hull back 140

Update Nov 7, 2016
I uploaded hull_front_140_mod and deleted hull_front_140

Instructions

Printing
Hull:
The best is, if you print it with spiral vase methode. Then you will get a neat surface without any noses from layer change.
I printed with layer hight: 0.3 mm and width: 0.6 mm.
Anyway, you have to print it hollow with one perimeter otherwise it will not fit inside the interface part.
The transom is 2.1 mm thick, that means, you need at least 7 solid layers each 0,3 mm high.

Decks: spiral vase
layer height: 0.3 mm
width: 0.5 mm

Hull interface: spiral vase
layer height: 0.3 mm
width: 0.5 - 0,6 mm
The solid part of the hull interface is to print in spiral vase mode. You will get a closed ring profile. Afterwards cut off the deck opening.
In case it is not going through the middle hull part, so you have to cut it also across and put it in from both sides.
I prefer solids instead of parts with walls, even if it requires some rework, because they are easy to slice with every slicer program.

The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue.
Before gluing you should mask the edges of the hulls with tape to keep them clean from glue.

Holes in support
The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph)
Don't use a drill, it will damage the material.
The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph)
Don't use a drill, it will damage the material!
The holes are not designed because holes are impossible to print in spiral vase mode.

Motor
Robbe Roxxy BL Outrunner 2834/8
Unfortunately, the Roxxy motor is not available anymore.
In principle you can take every motor between 26 mm and 28 mm diameter, and the screw holes must be on the shaft side.
It should not have more than 1100kv, otherwise the motor may become hot because it is not cooled by water or airflow of a propeller.

The most comparable to my motor I could find on HobbyKing , is this one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42501__NTM_Prop_Drive_Series_28_30_1100KV_Motor.html
Maybe also the smaller one could do it, though not so fast:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25076__NTM_Prop_Drive_Series_28_26_1100kv_252w.html

Anyway, if you have a motor already, just give me the measurements and I will look if I can modify the motor mount.

Air propeller motor
STORM 1806 2300kv
http://flyingfolk.com/storm-1806-2300kv-4s-LiPo-flyingfolk-outrunner-brushless-motor
and
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61433__DYS_BE1806_2300kv_Brushless_Multirotor_Motor_2S_3S.html

Controller
RockAmp 5A XBEC
http://www.parkflieger.eu/antrieb-und-motor/regler-esc/rockamp/5645/rockamp-40a-regler-5a-xbec-v3-mit-ec3

Receiver
OrangeRx R615 DSM2
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28554__OrangeRx_R615_Spektrum_JR_DSM2_Compatible_6Ch_2_4Ghz_Receiver.html

Servo
TGY-R5180MG

Sterntube
4/3 mm, 120 mm long

Driving shaft:
3 mm rod 160 mm long with 11 mm M3 thread on one end.

Propeller
Diameter 35 mm
M4 propellers need a bushing from M4 to M3.
Or you make an adapter as in drawing,

Overall weight
With inboard motor: 570g
With 1 air propeller: 425g
With 2 air propeller: 500g

Coupling
The easiest way is to screw the printed coupling with M2 screws. But it holds not very long.
A better solution is to use rubber shock absorber like this:
https://www.banggood.com/M4-Series-Rubber-Shock-Absorber-Rubber-Vibration-Isolator-Mounts-p-948213.html
Additional you need two 8 mm aluminium rods 15 mm long.
In this rods you drill a hole from the one side and cut a thread M4 from the other side. The hole must be for one the diameter of the motor shaft (3.75mm) and for the other the diameter of the propeller shaft (3.0mm).
You can easiely drill a centered hole if you clamp the drill in a vice and the aluminium rod in a column drill.
Each rod needs two cross bore M2 to clamp the shaft.
I uploaded photographs of the coupling now.

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Will I have to print all the parts in vase mode ??

No, only the parts of the hull and the deck.

hi
im printing the boat, and i wanna make it so that it well be an air boat
the motor i have is a 2845 4000KV motor witch i'm putting a 5 inch cyclone prop ( made for race quads)
but i'm not sure about the back pics you used to hole the motor in place ... can you pleas help me? i tried altering your pics but with no luck im gonna use this motor
https://www.banggood.com/2845-Motor-31003930KV-Sensorless-Brushless-Waterproof-35A-ESC-RC-Car-Parts-p-1059800.html?rmmds=search

its an in runner, so i need to screw the motor from the other side and have the shaft of it pointing back
so i wanna make a hole in the middle of the motor mount instead of the indent and to removed the cooling holes to add some strength

https://imgur.com/a/96CiE

it well be nice if you could help me out
thanks !

Sep 12, 2017 - Modified Sep 12, 2017
wersy - in reply to Itsik

I don't know if it will be an ideal motor for this.
But if you want to use it, I can make a special mount. Just tell me the diameters and the hole distance you need. Also if the holes are horizontal/vertical aligned or turned 45°.
BTW, the cooling holes doesn't reduce the straingth of the mount. You will not win anything if you do without.
However, tell me what you want.

thank you !
i alrady made an air boat with this setup but it turned out too havy
this motor + prop on 3S pushes about 2KG ... shoule be awsome

this are the motor's holes layout ..
https://imgur.com/a/Qk5dC

if you can make the mount stronger that well be good
the idea is this
https://imgur.com/a/X4pGG

thank you!! :)

Sep 13, 2017 - Modified Sep 13, 2017
wersy - in reply to Itsik

I uploaded "propeller mount 16_19".
It makes no sense to make the mount stronger.
If you give more than 600 grams thrust it is more likely that you will sink it.
The high positioned motor will push the bow downwards and the more weight reduces the tipping stability.
Have fun - but with caution.
BTW, I only need 1 kg thrust to fly my heavy 2.3 kg printed plane with 2 meter wingspan.

Sep 13, 2017 - Modified Sep 13, 2017
Itsik - in reply to wersy

welllllllllllllll
i already had 3S 2200MAH battery from a quadcopter i own and this motor had a discount and seemed to be powerful enough
can always limit the power or just put the batt really far to the back that way it will stabilize out when hammering it
on the other model i made i added a spoiler behind the prop to direct the thrust upwards, bringing up the bow
maybe we can tile the motor upwords abit? or mount it lower? or add a spoiler?
you seem like some one how does this stuff alot ... i wanna know what you think :)
also, i'm afraid about the steering, with the other model i made it a true air boat and steeried with the thrust from the motor, you think the rudder well be as effective?
thank you !

This shape of the hull was not designed as an air boat.
The add on to mount a propeller is just a gimmick. It is not suitable to over-motorize it.
As you can see in the videos, the rudder works well.

ill give it a shot, max ill buy a shaft and a propeller and make it an underwater propellor system ... same motor and all
if ill do that, what diameter shaft should i use? what did you use?

Look at the description:
Sterntube
4/3 mm, 120 mm long
Driving shaft:
3 mm rod 160 mm long with 11 mm M3 thread on one end.

Hallo Michael,

Danke für die schnelle Antwort und für das großartige Model.
Dein Link hat mir schon weitergeholfen.

MfG
Martin Hrdina

Comments deleted.

Hallo Martin,
Ich habe Welle und Messingrohr im Modellbauladen gekauft: http://www.mz-modellbau-shop.de
Danach habe dann die Boote konstruiert, die anfangs auch noch kleiner waren.
Grüße Michael

Hallo Michael,

Danke für die schnelle Antwort und für das großartige Model.
Dein Link hat mir schon weitergeholfen.

MfG
Martin Hrdina

Hi cool Boot, I have a Thurnigy D2836/8 1100KV lying around, but this one does not fit because the hole distance is too large

Could you adjust this for me?

You can't screw the motor directly because the hole distance is too small.
Just loosen the shaft and put it to the other side.

Just look at the comment from 1. April of "Hobb3s". He posted a link.
The rudder from HK should go but the goal is to print :-)

Hi, I am printing this boat, its very nice. But it seems that the main problem is where to buy the shaft, I am not able to find any which fits to the boat, have you some recommendation? Next question is to the rudder, I find one on hobbyking https://hobbyking.com/en_us/74mm-rudder-set-warrior-sea-rider.html will it fit to this boat? I think it can be more solid then the printed one
Thanks for reply

https://www.mcmaster.com/ is a great place to get hardware like this. They have good prices and fast shipping.

Do you have links to the prop shaft/sleeve that you used? I'm trying to find one that will work, however, most of them are too large.

I would like to know where I can get the prop shaft/sleeve also. Thanks!

Apr 29, 2017 - Modified Apr 29, 2017
wersy - in reply to IceCold

I bought the things in a neighbouring town in Germany,
but futher down Hobb3s wrote :
"I ended up finding this in another country across the pond and ordered it. Graupner N409
I'll install it soon and see if it works."

How do you recommend gluing the hull pieces together?

I use to take 2 component epoxy glue.

Hello, I am looking to start printing this boat, however, I am wondering how you drill the hole for the stern tube and motor output to go through in the back of the hull, I don't currently own a drill press, and I don't think I can drill that straight.

Also, I have a 240mm max height on my printer, what part combinations do I use. I am assuming the best orientation is to print it standing up .

Since you print it hollow (spiral vase) there is only left a thin wall to drill on motor side (carefully) and stern side.
You can take:
hull bow 129
hull front 140
hull back 190
And yes, all parts are to print standing up.

Hello everyone. Would anyone care to help me understand what are the parts of the hull that I need to print? I see so many hull parts, I am not sure what are just variations or updates. What is the full size of the hull? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

It depends on how high you can print.
You can take the first 4 files.
Or if you can only print up to 140mm you can use this combination:
hull bow 129
hull front 140
hull middle 50
hull back 140
In any case, you must reach the full size of 459 mm.

I'm enjoying building this boat, it's my first foray into RC boats. I was wondering if anyone had a part # for a suitable shaft. I've been searching for a 160mm 3mm shaft online with no luck so far. (my LHS is not helpful). Thanks!

Can you get a 7 mm stern tube?
If so, you can try to print the "sterntube test 7.4mm" and I will make a modified hull.
Otherwise tell me what you can get and I try to make another version.

I ended up finding this in another country across the pond and ordered it. Graupner N409
I'll install it soon and see if it works.

Comments deleted.

I am sorry, I generally don't share source files. Besides, in this case the file is corrupted and hardly editable.
You could try to edit the stl-file with tinkercad like "georgdoll" did.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:265357

Speed Boat 3 RC

hey
the hull bow 129 doesn't fit properly with the hull front 140, any chance you fix it?

I am sorry you printed a wrong part.
"Nana Falke" did split hull front 140. But as I noticed now, it is 148 mm. So it can't fit with bow 129.
I deleted it and I will upload a new split soon.

have printing problem
using simplify3d for slicer ,hull bow 89 is full printed ,no walls gaps just solid part
i use standard 35% infill rotate to be printed vertically/vase position
but it just wont to make hollow
same time hull front is 40% holow (mid part) and rest is solid
same for interface hull .all solid
only hull middle wasn't solid and hull back 140

don't know what to do

Simplify3d is not simple as the name say. It even complicates here and there.
Anyway, you must set to spiral vase and NO infill. Then all hull parts will be printed hollow.
I use Repetier-Host and slice mostly with Slic3r.

Oct 20, 2016 - Modified Oct 20, 2016

hi i have tanaris x9d radiostation,TGY-R5180MG x2 servos
motor http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%5F%5F91959%5F%5FKINGKONG%5F2204%5F2300KV%5FMulti%5FCopter%5FMotor%5FCCW%5FEU%5FWarehouse%5F.html
and 5x3 props

what else i need for r/c ??
HobbyKing 40A ESC w/UBEC 4A is this one good or HobbyKing 60A ESC 4A UBEC ?
Turnigy nano-tech 1000mAh 4S 45~90C Lipo Pack for esc and motor ..is thus good ?
what else ?
i know you post orange rx but i dont think my flysky tanaris x9d can work with it ?

or to go with
http://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-2838-Sensorless-Waterproof-Motor-36004500KV-35A-ESC-For-112-114-Cars-p-1056318.html?rmmds=category
all waterproof
can u help
oh have another one ,,i cant print longer part of cover ,have max height of 150mm printer (225x145 height 150)
or to print that on 225mm side flat bottom ,not vase kind ??

thanks for boat :)

I uploaded hull bow 129
So you can use this combination:
hull bow 129
hull front 140
hull middle 50
hull back 140

thanks :))

The motor is to big, it will not fit to the mount. You need one with diameter about 21 mm and hole spacings 12/16 mm.
40A ESC is far enough for a smaller motor, even 25A is good.
4S lipo 1000mAh is OK, not more, it will be to heavy.
Your printer prints high enough, the biggest part is 140 mm.

Very good job !!

The servo is OK but the motor is too big.

That's bad cause all my 28.. motors have more than 2200kv.
I've tried to print it in ABS with a bad result, will order some PET for the next try.
Do you know if someone printed a longer version?
Imo x1.3 in length should be a good ratio, maybe with some water scalpels and trim flaps ;)

I am afraid 2200 kV will run hot if it is not cooled.
I assembled a 3600kV water cooled motor, but not tested yet.
Just uploaded the photographs. To see them, scroll to the right.

Sep 14, 2016 - Modified Sep 14, 2016
Sergio_and_Mendel - in reply to wersy

Hello! Excuse me, but can you take more photos of your water-cooled boat? Im interesting shaft system... What diameter of tube and shaft? Where is you buy this system and motor with ESC?

Sorry, currently I am not at home. Furthermore, it is not tested yet, it might be to heavy.

You can't just scale it up. Motor mount and stern tube will change also then.
Don't try it with PET. It is as difficult to print as ABS.
Only for PET, a friend had to modify it, with additional rails on the bottom and something that should look like a breakwater on deck, to avoid bumps. Even so, it was difficult enough.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1377452
Take PLA, this is the easiest way to print it.

Speed Boat 3 RC modified for PET-G printed in one piece
by abcona

OK, then I will go the easy way by using PLA.
The smallest sterntube I have is 7mm x 160 with bearings and a 3mm x 195mm driving shaft from a brushless speed boat with allmost the same lenght, so if I wanna use that one I have to mod that part anyway.

You don't have to modify anything!
Just try out the file for testing "sterntube_test_7.4mm.stl" and tell me if it fits for you.

Jul 9, 2016 - Modified Jul 9, 2016

Hello,
I have that NTM PropDrive 2830-1100kv lying around cause it was to small for my plane, does it fit to your motormount?
Last time I was thinking about buying a speedboat, know I know the perfect one for me ;)
Another question:
I have a lot of 9 gramm servos with 2.5kg/cm, will they do the rudder job?
Greats and thanks for that nice project!

Edit:
Sorry, the small low kv motor is not 28.. it's an NTM PD 3530-1100kv.

Jun 10, 2016 - Modified Jun 10, 2016

Hi, this is a really good deign and quite beautiful,I like it.
I am printing the hull part using hull_back_190, hull_bow_89 and hull_middle_180. I met some problems.Is the hull_bow all solid and hull_interface all solid? Or they are almost solid? They are very heavy compared to the hull_back part.And the hull_middle_180 is also very heavy, weighs 880 grams in Cura. This is too heavy for a little boat.
Maybe somewhere is wrong that I don't know.I tried to edit them with 123D but failed.Really appreciate it if you could help me. Thank you.

I hope very much you didn't print already these heavy parts ;-)
All parts of the hull are to print hollow with one perimeter, at best in spiral vase mode.
Additional you may read the comments. There are many questions already answered.
However, just ask if you are still unsure.
Have fun printing the boat :-)

Hi, Thank you for replying. No, I just printed the hull_back_190, this part is OK with any kind of printing method.
I did not follow spiral vase mode, now I see the real meaning of it.My printer is a delta, work range is DIA180X280H(mm) which is good at printing high parts.Would you please help to merge hull_bow_89 and hull_middle_180 to a stl file, so that I can use less glue and save some time.Thank you very much.

Just uploaded hull_front_270
I envy you for your huge printer, have much fun ;-)

Hi Thank you very much. My machine is bought from internet in KIT which is much cheaper compared to ready-to-use.
Now I just run out of my PLA because of printing my airplane which is not beautiful , and I'll be travelling soon.But looking forward to the little beautiful boat ;-).

Hello.
I'm printing your boat's design and I'm using the "Hull bow 109", the "hull front 160" and the "hull back 190", having already printed the two first pieces and in the middle of the last one.
Are the two last pieces supposed to be just glued together or is there the need to reinforce it? I ask this because it seems such a large boat with such a small contact surface between hull 160 and hull 190 that I'm afraid it'll break up when in the water.
What glue do you suggest in using?

Thank you very much for this work of art!

Between hull 160 and hull 190 you need the interface.
As I wrote in "Instructions":
The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue.
Before gluing you should mask the edges of the hulls with tape to keep them clean from glue.
In your case you don't need to use the full length of the interface.
I use 2 component epoxy glue because you don't have to hurry when you are gluing.

Is the adapter you made for where to rod goes into the motor or where the propeller goes onto the rod?

The adapter is to connect the propeller onto the rod.

could I just use glue or epoxy to keep the propeller on instead of making the adapter?

You can try this, but you have to make sure to center the propeller to the rod. Otherwise you will get vibrations which can damage the printed stern tube. It can help to wrap round the rod very thin wire or anything other very accurate.
You better take special metal glue.
Anyway, roughen the rod before gluing.

can u guys make a double engine underwater mount

The bottom of the hull is optimized for speed. Any additional parts will just slow down the speed.

Comments deleted.

Do you mind explain exactly which parts are needed to print one of these. My Printer is capable of 200x200x190. I have a concern which to parts to print in vase mode and which parts to print solid. I wish to build this with the internal motor as I have an Align motor from a Alight Trex 450 helicopter.

Would it be possible if you include which parts are needed to print full boat as there are too many parts in the list and I am confused or else segregate the names with boat 1 and boat 2. This was an example.

Thanks a lot. You did a great job.

Regards
Jason

Print hull bow 89 and hull front 180.
Then you can choose:

  1. hull middle 50 and hull back 140
    or
  2. hull back 190

All hull parts and deck parts and the interface are to print in spiral vase mode.

Thank for the prompt reply. Wow amazing! Thanks. When you say width 0.6mm, do you mean you did 2 perimiters? I am using Cura as slicer therefore my print layer I am going to set it as 0.3mm and the wall thickness I set it to 0.6 so that it just passes twice. Am I right?

No, spiral vase can only print a thin wall with 1 perimeter.
You must tell Cura you have a 0.6 mm nozzle. Or use another slicer.

My nozzle size is 0.4mm. What it will be the difference if I tell cura that I have a 0.6 nozzle?

It would be nice if you create a facebook page and everyone post his ideas and everyone share and help each other

I think there is no difference. It's just because cura don't like to print thicker than the nozzle.
You should first learn how to print spiral vase. Just take a simple cylinder and try out with several settings. In spiral vase only solid bottom layers are possible, no solid top layers. On top it will always be open.
As to facebook, you know, retirees never have time...

Hi!
We are a group of students from spain and we are trying to replicate your boat, I have to tell you, you have done an amazing work!
Well... we have made the one with the air propeller and the servo, but we are printing the two propellers version too (well, the two pieces to midify it)
But we have this: http://www.hobbyjess.es/es/product/emisora-flysky-gt2b-24ghz
Does it works?
I don't know how you did to chenge the direction giving more power to one propeller than the other... Do we need an special ESC?
Thanks!

would you mind sharing your design for the 2 propeller version ? ^^

What do you exactly mean?

I didn't read properly the full conversation, my bad. I just saw that you already shared the 2 propeller mount ! Simple question, how do you turn with that ? by adjusting speeds between the two motors (and even maybe reversing the rotation) ?

I turn by adjusting speeds between the two motors, there is no need to reverse the rotation.

okay nice, do you have a video of it maybe ? I'd like to compare with the one air propeller only model assisted by servo to turn and also with the normal version in the water ^^

There are altogether 6 videos. Just click the thumbnails with the triangle.

my bad again, I didn't see that you posted a video of the 2 air propeller version, thx !

Hello again, I'm starting this project for a friend of mine as a gift. Could you help me with an updated list of parts that I can buy on hobbyking ? I have nothing at my home ahah so I'll need to buy everything and start from scratch as this is my 1st RC project. So I'm not really familiar with configuring a controller, receiver and remote...
Your help would be very appreciated :) And it would surely make one dude really happy in june ahah

Before you buy parts for RC you should know to use them.
It is not quite harmless to handle with batteries and can be very dangerous if you make something wrong.
I recommend to contact people wich have experience in things like that. They can also tell you what you really need. Maybe they can even sell used equipent for little money.
Anyway, apart from the motor I listed you can take every 20A ESC, a 4S or 3S Lipo and you need only a 2 channel receiver and transmitter.

In order to get differential steering ( more/less power ) you WILL need 2 ESC's . Then you have to mix your channels to allow your ESC's to operate independently driven by your transmitter! I DO NOT believe you can use the 2/3 channel trans/rec. you showed because I do not think you can mix with it. Look at the Horizon they can mix....

Thank you for the explanation. 
 Furthermore the ESC's must be the same, and use a programing card to make sure they have the same settings.

Thank you very much for the explanation!
At the we have printed the two propellers version and we are going to try it with a servo...
By the way, in the videos, there are two differents way to put the propellers.... what's de difference? one of them the propellers are heading to the back of the boat...
excuse my english and thank u again!
I will upload the result!

In my videos, the motors always heading to back.
But thomash666 designed a nice motor mount where the motors are heading to front.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1518249
In general it is better to have the CG more to front. The only disadvantage is, the propeller size is limmited then.

Another motor mount option

Hallo, ich bin gerade dabei die Teile auszudrucken, vielen Dank für die Daten! Tolle Arbeit. Habe nur ein kleines Problem, ich kann weder Hull Front 160 oder Hull Front 180 drucken. Mein Drucker erlaubt maximal 15 cm in die höhe und für die Breite ist mein Drucker minimal zu klein. Gedruckt habe ich schon 89 und 140. Wie kann ich das am besten schneiden, das es passt?
Freue mich auf eine Antwort
Liebe Grüße und einen schönen Abend

Sami

Am besten Du schneidest hull 180 auf 150 mm. Das verbleibende 30 mm vordere Stück druckst Du nicht im spiral vase mode, sondern normal mit wenig Infill (ca. 15%) und mit 3 Boden- und Decklayer.
Viel Spaß!

Ok, ich habe es wie auf dem letzen Bild gemacht. Ich verlinke dir die Daten, dann kannst du es bei dir hochladen und Leute die etwas kleinere Drucker haben, können problemlos drucken. Hier die Dateien: http://www.mediafire.com/download/gs0o8060pkncgvl/hull_40.stl, http://www.mediafire.com/download/ul2f3s3bvdi2srh/hull_140.stl.
Liebe Grüße

Sami

Apr 8, 2016 - Modified Apr 8, 2016
wersy - in reply to Nanafalke

Richtig, genau so habe ich es gemeint.
Das große Teil wie das Heckteil drucken: einwandig, oben offen, unten aber nur 3 Bodenlayer.
Das kleine Teil einwandig, mit 3 Boden- und Decklayer und geringem Infill.
Habe die Dateien hochgeladen und ein Update geschrieben.
Danke Sami :-)
Zusatz: Jetzt hast Du noch einen zweiten Auftriebskörper :-)

Apr 8, 2016 - Modified Apr 8, 2016
Nanafalke - in reply to wersy

Gerne :D.
Vielen Dank für deine Hilfe.
Jetzt wird das Boot gründlich abgeschliffen und in Neon Grün lackiert. Ich verwende dazu Kunstoff Grundierung, hoffentlich klappt das. Vielen Dank nochmal :D
Sobald ich fertig bin kommt ein Video und Fotos.
Danke für die sehr guten Dateien :).

Liebe Grüße
Sami

Vielen Dank für deine schnelle Rückmeldung. Ich habe den Rumpf jetzt so geschnitten: http://puu.sh/o9qEx/161aca44fb.jpg und http://puu.sh/o9qFD/72b167d16c.jpg. Wäre das besser so? Oder doch lieber wie auf diesem Bild: http://puu.sh/o9roW/3a91848890.png. Bei MakerWare kann ich nur einstellen ob ich den Boden oder das Dach weglassen soll. Dann beim großen Teil einfach ohne Boden mit 0% Infill und 5 Shells drucken? Sorry für die vielen Frage aber ich möchte ungern beim Druck etwas falsch machen :D.

Liebe Grüße

Sami

Comments deleted.

Did you make an adapter on the propeller or use a bushing like you said in the instructions? Also, where did you get the switch in the picture to turn on the boat? And will this controller work on the boat instead of the RockAmp on you used?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__2165__TURNIGY_Plush_40amp_Speed_Controller_w_BEC.html

I use the bushing as well as the adapter. To make a bushing is more tricky than to make an adapter. The adapter has the advantage that you can simply use different propellers.
If you have a tube from brass with an inner diameter of 4 mm and a shaft of 4 mm from metall that fits really good, I could try to modify the hull. Just tell me the outer diameter of the tube then.
In this case of course I also have also to modify the coupling.

Yes, you can take this controller but it is has no switch. So you can't use a switch. You will find controller with a switch only on special boat controllers.

Apr 7, 2016 - Modified Apr 7, 2016
wersy - in reply to wersy

Am besten Du schneidest hull 180 auf 150 mm. Das verbleibende 30 mm vordere Stück druckst Du nicht im spiral vase mode, sondern normal mit wenig Infill (ca. 15%) und mit 3 Boden- und Decklayer.
Viel Spaß!

Also do you think the boat was faster with the propeller or the fan?

The propeller is faster if the combination of motor and propeller is ideal.
With two fans it could be even faster but currently there is a controlling problem at full throttle.

Where did you get the tube and rod for the propeller??

I got them in a shop next Frankfurt in Germany.

How did you stop water from entering the boat from the tube where the propeller is? I know you put epoxy where the hollow propeller rod in but wouldnt water go in the gap between the hollow rod and the propeller shaft?

Just grease tube and rod plenty.

How will that stop water?

Don't worry, it works :-)
Furthermore, the flowing water causes a suction effect which sucks water out of the tube.

What type of controller do you use to control the boat?

look at hobby king. they have a really nice digital 2.1 with the steering wheel! that is considered a " SURFACE " transmitter for car/boat at a really great price! You should get at least 2-3 channel. Buy the complete setup with Transmitter/ Receiver/servo.

I use this controller: https://www.parkflieger.eu/rockamp-40a-regler-5a-xbec-v3-mit-ec3
But it is not available anymore. It has a special back-cable to switch off the receiver.
I can't find a similiar one with this feature. Then you can't use the switch above the coupling.
Anyway, you can take any controller for brushles motor 30 A, depending on which motor you choose.

As to scaling down the front part.
How high can you print?

In this case you don't need to scale down the front part.
Just take the hull_front 160 and combine it with hull_bow 109.

i can print up to 170

Hi I did not pay attention to the width of the layers. If I have a .4mm nozzle will I have to put a 150% flow rate on my settings to get a .6 mm width?

You can try that. In worst case, the inner diameter of the pipe for the stern tube could be 0.2 mm bigger. If so, you have to use more glue to seal the (protective) stern tube.
If you use Slic3r you can set extrusion width (advanced) to 0.6

If I scale the hull front down some in the z axis direction will it affect the driving any?

You will then get an incoherent shape that looks ugly.
Why do you want to shorten the front part?

because my printer is not tall enough to print it. I was only talking about shortening it by about 10mm

How high can you print?

Additional for explanation why I use solids for hollow parts.
Solid parts are easy to slice with every slicer because it has only to follow the outlines.
Furthermore you can choose the thickness of the wall as you like.

Are you at all concerned when printing the hull with just one perimeter layer that somewhere on the hull the layer will crack and let water in? Also I am still confused on where the interface part goes because when I download the stl file I just see a big solid part that is shaped like the back of the boat. Also could I print the nose of the boat with 10% or 20% infill or does it have to be hollow too.

Mar 25, 2016 - Modified Mar 25, 2016
wersy - in reply to collin2020

If you print the solid part of the hull interface in spiral vase mode (without bottom layer) you automatically will get a hollow part. It is the ring profile that connects the front, middle and the back hull parts.

It is no problem at all to print the hull robust and watertight that way. Of course the printer must be good calibrated.

Yes, you can print the nose with infill if it is easier for you.
The other hull parts should be hollow, otherwise you can't use the interface for better alignment and gluing.

Ok, thank you for explaining where the interface goes. One more question, when I print the hull front where it connects with the nose should there be a layer there to glue the nose to the front or should it be hollow and need to use a interface?

Both parts need 3 bottom layer. The nose is then a closed hollow part and should be absolutely water-tight.
If the PLA is transparent enough, you can see the water inside shining through it with a flashlight. Or you weigh it before and after.
If the worst comes to the worst, it is then the life buoy ;-)
I glued the two parts together only with double sided tape. So I can exchange the nose if damaged - or take one with another color.

Ok thank you.

What number mAh battery do use and how long can you drive the boat for on a charge?

I use a 4S 850 mAh battery. I didn't measured how long it did, maybe 10 minutes.
It is better to take a smaller battery. The lighter the boat is, the faster it can be.

Ok great thanks!

Are you at all concerned when printing the hull with just one perimeter layer that somewhere on the hull the layer will crack and let water in?Also I am still confused on where the interface part goes because when I download the stl file I just see a big solid part that is shaped like the back of the boat.

Sorry to ask another question but, what number infill do you print the different parts at? Thanks for all the help

The hull and the deck have no infill, just one outside perimeter, preferably printing in spiral vase mode.
All other parts: about 30% infill.

This one is also too slow. You need 2300kv

Ok thanks!

I have this motor http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28115__Turnigy_D2830_11_1000kv_Brushless_Motor_US_Warehouse_.html and was wondering if i could use it to power the fan? The hole pattern is the same as the one you use.
Thanks So Much!

Mar 24, 2016 - Modified Mar 24, 2016
wersy - in reply to Gerik2002

No, for the fan it is too slow and to heavy.
You need someting like this then:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61433__DYS_BE1806_2300kv_Brushless_Multirotor_Motor_2S_3S.html

Ok thank you for all your help.

What air propellor do you use?

5 x 3

Can I print to the whole boat in PLA or do I need to use another material for the boat? Also, what electronics did you use to make the boat? The link in the description is not working for me. Also, what slicer did you use to print it? Also, what infill did you use on the back plate of the boat? And is the back plate called the hull interface solid in the stl files? What is the hull_interface_solid and where does it go?

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
wersy - in reply to collin2020

Yes, you can use PLA, no problem.

Sorry for the links, the motor isn't available anymore. I still use this one for all my Boats and almost all my airplanes. I have to see first what else would fit and will post it soon. Anyway, it must be a motor with a hole pattern of 16/19 mm and a shaft of 3.17 mm.
Edit:
The shaft can also be 3.0 mm.
Important is, that the screw holes 16/19 mm M3 are on the shaft side.

I am not quiet sure what slicer I used, most probably Slic3r. But you can also use Cura or any other.

The back plate has to be printed solid, as I wrote in "Instructions":
"The transom is 2.1 mm thick, that means, you need at least 7 solid layers each 0,3 mm high."

The hull_interface_solid is also mentioned:
"The solid part of the hull interface is to print in spiral vase mode. You will get a closed ring profile. Afterwards cut off the deck opening."
And:
"The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue."

When I print the back hull on should my printer print over the holes the screws for the rudder go into or should it leave the holes where you can see them?

All blind holes must keep visible. Afterwards you only drill out the holes you need.
For instance, if you mount two air propellers you don't need the rudder and the stern tube.

Do you have to drill out the hole for the propeller?

If you use the inboard motor you must drill out the tube for the stern tube from both sides.
Start with a smaller drill very careful, especially from the inside. Finally make the fine tuning with a round file to 4mm diameter.

Are you at all concerned when printing the hull with just one perimeter layer that somewhere on the hull the layer will crack and let water in?Also I am still confused on where the interface part goes because when I download the stl file I just see a big solid part that is shaped like the back of the boat.

Sollte man das Boot eventuell mit einer Wasserdichtung Beschichtung anstreichen?

Bei einigermaßen gutem Druck ist das nicht nötig.
Unbedingt aber auf Dichtheit prüfen, auch den Hohlraum mit Lampe durchleuchten. Falls das Material zu undurchsichtig ist, vorher und nachher mit Feinwaage wiegen.

Ok, vielen Dank für das tolle Design und die Tipps. Ich werde ein Video hochladen sobald das Boot fährt. Danke!

Liebe Grüße

Tolle Arbeit! Werde ich mir demnächst drucken sobald das Ritzel für meinen 3D Drucker ankommt.
Liebe Grüße

Feb 18, 2016 - Modified Feb 18, 2016
wersy - in reply to Nanafalke

Danke! Ich freue mich, dass es Dir gefällt.
Und viel Spaß beim Drucken und Fahren.
Grüße Michael

Hi again, i am not very good with 3d modelling programms could you please upload the files in stl. Format so that i could print it in 3 pieces? Thank you so much for this awesome design!

I added "hull back 190". You can still use a part of the interface. Just cut off about 25mm of the more norrow part of the interface.
So you don't need to print the "hull back 140" and the "hull middle 50".

What is the overall lenght of the hull?

Overall lenght is 460 mm

Hi , im interested in building this hull firstly could you print it on a cube pro duo? And how many interfaces do i have to print? Could i make it a twin engine powered boat instead of single engine could you upload a file for the back section of the boat in stl format which is optimized for to motors?

Thank you very much

With the CubePro Duo you are able to print the hull in three parts.
You need one interface for the hull and one for the deck.
Two inboard motors are not possible. You can drive it with two air propellers but then the controlling is a bit tricky, as you can see in the videos.

A very nice foam lightweight.
Do you have in mind that a printed one will be at least 50% heavier?
Be glad, if it then at least still floats... ;-)

I got an idea, let`s make it fly. So it will be a flying boat. We just have to create/draw some wings with ailenroll, and elevator.
That ould be a cool project.
It would be great if you could share your drawings,

best regards

I already thought about this. Aside from the fact that the flat hull is unfit for a flying boat, it will become to heavy. So it needs to much power to overcome the water resistance and take off.

Let's take that a little further.....how about a surface effect machine? Stubby wings so it can't go too high, just high enough to get off the water, or any surface and 'fly' a few inches off the ground.....

That would be more likely feasible and I thought several times about it. But the weight is still a problem.
Anyway, I wouldn't know where I could drive it. You need a bigger lake and at least a rubber dinghy...;-)

Dec 31, 2015 - Modified Dec 31, 2015

Very good design, congratulations, with spiral base is excellent !!
Thanks for uploading

Hello, Thanks for uploading this model.
I thought I'd try to print in ABS but am struggling with spiralvase given that it is only one later thick. Is it really printed with only one outer layer?
Is there a good reason why ABS is not used? Maybe that's my problem.
I am now attempting to print without spiral vase and thicker wall to see how it goes.
If this fails, I'm reverting to spiralvase PLA and will look at glues??? to strengthen the wall?
What glue did you use for the PLA boat you have?

Hi aussiebuilder,
Yes, the reason is, ABS warps more than PLA because of the higher print temperature. Furthermore it doesn't adheres so well. It is easier to print the hull with PLA.
You need to print the hull hollow because you need the gap for the interface.
As I mentioned already in the "Instructions":
The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue.
Before gluing you should mask the edges of the hulls with tape to keep them clean from glue.

I use 2 component epoxy glue. It is easy to handle because you don't must hurry.
The hollow hull don't need to be strengthened further. The interface glued in the middle gives enough stability.

Dec 17, 2015 - Modified Dec 18, 2015
aussiebuilder - in reply to wersy

Hello Wersy,
Thankyou so much for responding so fast. I really appreciate it. I'm new to 3d printing but I'm working it out pretty fast. I've got great prints out of my very basic prusa-i3 kit when using PLA. After reading your comment, I've resliced and will do a vase print of the bow for starters. OK re: epoxy. I guess if you really wanted you could epoxy paint a thin layer over the whole lot to strengthen. I might try this if I feel I need some piece of mind re: watertight.
One thing you didn't mention in the comments was the diameter of the copper pipe. In the model there is a pipe for this, my 123D win vm keeps crashing before I can check the diameter. Can you tell me what it is? 6mm? Did you drill it out after printing? or leave it out of the print?

EDIT: Bow printed perfectly...moving onto hull front now

Hi aussiebuilder,
There should be no need to paint the hull. A good print is watertight and looks much better without paint. If you are unsure, you can test it in the bath tube. But try to get, as always, a best possible print.
The dimensions are in "Instructions" further down:
sterntube 4/3 mm, 120mm long (brass)
I open the hole for the stern tube on both ends very carefully with a smaller drill first and than with a small round file.

Congrats to the already succesfully printed bow. It is not alway so easy to get it with a proper top.

Dec 18, 2015 - Modified Dec 21, 2015
aussiebuilder - in reply to wersy

Hello,
OK. I printed half the hull back so I could look at it. The half I printed has printed perfectly BUT there are two spiral vase walls with a gap inbetween. Is that correct? My slicer settings could be wrong, I will double check them;I'm using slic3r. Due to me having a .4mm hotend I had to change a few things but obviously I will try again now.
I did read what you put 4-3mm 120mm long (about 4 times), but my thinking was that it was a typo as the shaft you said was 3mm, so usually you add PTFE tubing outside a shaft and then into brass, so 1mm to PTFE tubing then another 1mm for brass I figured 4mm wouldn't cover all that. Or, I guess you must be using rigid shaft.

Now I've printed I can see it's definitely 4mm. I will probably have to redraw somehow but I'll need to stop running windows10 in VM and do a full install to make this change with 123D; OR I might even try putting a flex shaft inside PTFE directly in what is printed i.e something like this http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=4A18135F-1E17-4D39-85FF-08C5C9BDFFBC, then maybe build a strut for the rigid part out back.

I have that item but will replace PTFE tube with 3mmID 5mm OD PTFE tube and then that inside 5mm ID, 6mm OD brass tube [ (as that's all I could get re: brass tube). So I would have to go from 4mm -> 6mm OR I just try to put that item as it is with 4mm OD PTFE straight into your hole support. If it was solid I think it would work, but it's a thin 2nd layer on my failed print?

Can you confirm if there are two walls or one? in your print?

Hi aussiebuilder,
I am really curious how you manage to get to single shell with a gap in between. I wouldn't know how to do that ;-) Setting spiral vase generates only one perimeter and that is what you need - only one shell.
The assembling of the sterntube is better to see at the other boat: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790998

Whatever you take, you need a stern tube which is glued into the printed tube to protect the PLA of getting hot (frictional heat).
Are you sure, you can modify the sterntube with 123D?
Otherwise tell me what OD you need and I can upload a separated part for testing (only sterntube with motor mount)

Speed Boat 2 RC
by wersy
Dec 20, 2015 - Modified Dec 22, 2015
aussiebuilder - in reply to wersy

Hello,
If you don't mind, that would be great. 6.5mm OD (allow .5mm just in case I think).
OK got it.
I will mess with slic3r some more. Yeah two outer perimeters, the inner one makes the shape of the tube, they are very thin/too thin, it can be pull apart very easy. When you say .5/.6mm thickness, is this the thickness it prints the spiral outer and inner wall?
If you only have one wall outside, is the tube brace solid or made up of two walls? That's what I meant by two.
Is this what you have?
What size nozzle do you have on your printer? Is it .3? Mine is .4, I think when I told it thickness of .6 it didn't slice that thickness, I've set it to .8 to see what the print looks like half way through/whether the outer wall is thicker than the first print. Looking at your canopy, it looks like it can handle pretty thick hull wall so I'm struggling to work out how if yours is only .5/.6 thick? i.e it looks like it can handle somewhere between 2-3mm total thickness (the sliding part).
Cura I get a nice thick shell but unfortunately the base in full of holes/not solid. I will play with slic3r, and if no good I can always use CURA and glue up the holes.

EDITS BELOW

In advanced settings Perimeters, what are your settings? Did you set Perimeters & External Perimeters to .5/.6? or leave 0?

Don't worry about reworking as I have done this (very roughly) but overlaying a new larger cylinder over yours without actually changing the mesh (using 123D), then combined in meshmixer BUT it's not a correct stl. This is obvious when you go to slice with different settings. For the purpose of my 1 off print it's fine. I'm going to go ahead with External perimeters 1.2mm perimeters 1.2mm and approx. 2.2mm for back plate. The slic3r preview looks OK and this results in total thickness of around 2.2-2.4..it's thick, but not much heavier and I'll try to rework the canopy to fit if it's too thick for them to slide on. Can you place your calipers on the hull and measure the actual thickess of your hull wall after printing? I'm curious what it is even though I can work/adjust to make mine work.

  • Have now finished hull back, looks great. Moving onto front 160 I get a line around it where the interior perimeter meets the outer on slic3r, switching back to cura for this piece as I can't seem to get around this when I look at the preview layers. I think the biggest trouble is finding the right slicer settings that work for these.
  • Finished front hull 160, looks great, proceeding with canopy test for fitment with my thickness of hull.
    Cheers.

Hi aussiebuilder,
It looks as if you get along pretty well now.
I have a 0.5mm nozzle. In Slic3r I set the width (perimeter) to 0.6mm.
The hull is 2.2mm thick overall. That means the gap between the shells is: 2.2 minus (2x 0.6) = 1.0mm.
In Cura it is not so easy because it wants a overall shell thickness (which can consist of several perimeters). If it is more then one, you cannot print in spiral vase mode.

How to trick Cura in this case, you can see how "abcona" did it.
He has a 0.5 nozzle and set the flow to 135%.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:180585

In your case you had to set the flow to 150%: 0.4 x 1.5 = 0,6mm.

Speed Boat 3 RC
by abcona

Hello Wersy,
Sorry for the late reply, that makes sense.
I did manage to get it done before christmas in the end. The boat is functional albeit a few minor issues to resolve.
Really appreciate your assistance and when I get time I will probably upload pics of my boat as another one made.
Cheers and it is a great boat boat design. Even though I put a 1.5mah battery and heavy 50A ESC (over 100grams) in my boat, the weight doesn't seem to be a problem. It absolutely screams along! I'm waiting for a lighter weight 30A ESC to arrive in the post.

Sep 15, 2015 - Modified Sep 15, 2015

I am using skeinforge to slice, and it doesn't have the option for "spiral vase". I wanted to edit the STLs so I can 3D print with regular settings using skeinforge. When I import the STL (hull bow for example) in Sketchup it will try to "fix" the file, and it imports with missing triangles, therefore the object has small holes. I think that is because the triangles are too small for Sketchup, because after it imports the STL I cannot manually fix the object, I have to increase the size by 1,000% to be able to manually fill in the missing triangles, but it's extremely time consuming!
Can you render the objects with lower resolution? (lower number of triangles?)

Hi Michael, stl files with high resolution are the condition for best possible smooth surfaces.
For this Skeinforge is hardly suitable because it generates larger curves rough and irregular, this looks like a basketwork.
However, I don't know why you run Sketchup, in principle there is no need. But Skeinforge has another annoying disadvantage: It can't make various bottom layer and top layer. The back hull for instance, need seven 0,3mm bottom layers = 2.1mm and no top layer.

What slicer are you using?

For my boats and airplanes I prefer Slic3r. If you print in spiral vase mode, enable to see the non-print moves in the gcode preview and make sure that there is no one of it visible in the spiral vase area. Otherwise you will get a gap between two layers.

Could you make smaller parts? My maximum hight of Printer is 12cm, so split every 10 cm would bei greate.

Did you already print 10cm pieces?
If so, I would design corresponding interfaces now, though it is some effort.

You can decrease object scale , all parts with same factory scale

But then the mounts for the inboard and outboard motor won't fit.

Hi, nice design i really like it ;)
already made the hull und printing the decks now. The idea with the airboat i like most but i would like to make my own propeller mount.
Was just wonering if i could get a step file (or something else i can import to Inventor) of the hull_back part. A dxf file with the dimensiond of the stern of the boat would do too. At least i would save me some time recreating it from measuments and probably a little more accurate. Would be nice.
anyway thnx for this nice little speedy ;)

I just uploaded a dxf file of the stern with its main dimensions. I hope it helps you to design the propeller mount. I am curious to see the mount - and of course your boat :-)

many thnx ;)
thtast the basic idea.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/340709/speedy.png
have to work out some things still, but got motor and props today, so i can check if it fits that way

Nice, can we get an STL?

yes sure, its still not tested yet though. mechanically its working fine now after a few iterations.
i think ill put up a remix probably next weekend

Nice, it looks as if it gets a larger propeller :-) Though, the lower part will not benefit from it because it is located in the wake flow of the stern. And notice, the tube can capsize the boat by sidewind. I wonder how the rudder will turn the boat.

ok good point about the sidewind, maybe i can loose some material on the sides, doesnt need to be full i think.
i put it a bit lower so i can access the deck once the rudder is removed. dont have to unscrew the whole thing.
probably ill be using 6inch propeller but 5 might do too.
the rudder is the biggest probelm, theoretically it should work like on an real airboat, but if it dosnt work out i can still
use a "normal" rudder ;)

new version with less material on the sides: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/340709/speedy_v3.png
rudder can be uses too, or removed. have an idea now how to connect the mechanics for the air-rudder.
reduced its width as well, but probably have to make it wider

Can I print this in a 140mm x 140mm x 140mm printer?

No, you need more height. Next to the stl-file you see the height of each part. The easiest way to prove if you can print a part is to try to slice it with your slicer. It will give a warning if the part is to big.

Servo:
Excuse me, the servo I use is not available any more.
Important is the distance between the upper side of the mount and the centerline of the steering rod. It must be 12,5 mm, otherwise the steering rod will not fit properly through the provided hole.
I think this one should fit: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27725__Turnigy_8482_TGY_R5180MG_180_Degree_MG_Analog_Servo_2_0kg_0_12sec_12g.html

Regulator:
40A for a regulator is amply even for the motor boat version, though you will have much reserve for other things but 30A is enough.
If you use the airboat version: 20A suffices.

Lipo:
5000mAh are by far to much! With this weight you will probably get a submarine ;-)
1000 mAh will be enough, I use 850mA but it last not for long.

Receiver:
The receiver is ok, I have the same one.

Which parts do I need, I am new to this :P. Like, do I need the hull interface or just the hull middle?

You need both. Look what I wrote in "Instructions":
The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue.
Before gluing you should mask the edges of the hulls with tape to keep them clean from glue.

So the interfaces just go inside of the actual hull to make gluing easier?

Right, and further more, it increases the stiffness, depending the more glue you use.

Great build! I am printing this out this weekend. May I suggest, it would help to get a signal filter to reduce/remove those green lines in the on-board video.

Thank you for the hint, but I guess Windows Movie Maker can't do it ;-)

Ah no, I meant a small electronic device that you hardwire to your RC boat set up to filter out "noise" so you get perfect video. You can build a simple one, they are called L-C filters (or LC filters w/o dash). Check this out http://blog.oscarliang.net/lc-filter-fpv/

Thank you very much, this is a good idea.

Jul 31, 2015 - Modified Jul 31, 2015

Hello!
Can you split hull in a shortest parts. I can't print higher then 160mm

Hi, I shortened the front part to 160mm and enlarged the bow part to 109mm. You can download now the additional files. I hope it helps you.

Danke Karsten,
aber das Deck hat Angelo gedruckt ;-)

Bin immer wieder beeindruckt von Deinen präzisen einwandigen Prints, Michael! Chapeau!

Danke schön :) :D

Gerne :-)
I am glad you like it.

Comment avez vous fait pour coller les parties ? Merci.

Jul 19, 2015 - Modified Jul 19, 2015
wersy - in reply to mafia_7140

I use 2 component epoxy glue, like UHU PLUS ENDFEST 300.
The bow was just glued with double faced adhesive tape ;-)

Jul 19, 2015 - Modified Jul 19, 2015
mafia_7140 - in reply to wersy

Merci, en tout cas très très belle réalisation ;-)

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