Voronoi Bracelet

by AK_Eric May 24, 2013
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Hello Eric,

Thank you very much for your share. I like a lot this design. Could you explain me how did you make it, and with which software ? I would like to learn how to make design as this one, but I don't find tutorials on Internet.

I used Maya, with the SOuP plugin for it: That plugin allows you to shatter polygonal mesh using a voronoi algorithm. The basic process I used was: Model the C-shaped bracelet. Make a cube the same size. Shatter the cube using the voronoi algorithm. Then boolean the shatter out of my bracelet. You can see some examples of that plugin here:

Hi Eric, thank you for your answer.

I'll try to adapt this method with Blender.

Hello, AK_Eric. As a newcomer to 3D printing, there are many doubts I do not know how to answer. I use a RepRap machine, with Slic3r as slicer and Repetier. I do not see any HBP mention. Could you please explain to me what does it mean, and were shall I mark it or disable it using PLA to print the VORONOL bracelet? Thanks.

HBP is short for 'heated build platform' : I don't use Slic3r, so I can't speak on how to enable\disable it: I'd hit up the Slic3r forms on that. Note that not all bots have a heated build platform.
Generally I only heat it when printing in ABS (which I no longer use) or Nylon (which I haven't used in a long time), which I used for this print. Or I'll use it on a PLA print that has a huge surface area on the bottom, and I want to guarantee there'll be no lifting off the platform during print, or I want to make sure the bottom is perfectly flat: Heating the build platform helps the material stick to it, by keeping it at a higher temperature, the byproduct of which is it wanting to shrink less during printing, and reduce any bed-detachment.
If you were going to print this in PLA then no HBP would be needed, although heating it up to 50-60c wouldn't hurt.

Thanks a lot for your answer, AK_Eric. AS a matter of fact, I normally use the HBP (thanks also for this...) when printing with PLA with about 60 to 65º centigrades, and the extrusion head at 175ºC. I'll try to print the bracelet with that configuration and see what happens. Anyway, Il''let you know about the result. Best regards.

Loved the design! I do have a question. I am using PLA on Makerbot. How do you turn HBP off? Also, I am new to this and didn't follow how u fixed the hissing. Did you actually the bracelet in the oven? Can I do this with PLA? Many thanks in advance.

I turn off the HBP in two places: In Makerware (which I use), when you go into the print settings, when you select PLA, it disables it by default. If you're using ABS, then you need to uncheck that box. Then on the bot itself, in LCD menu, in one of those submenus (I'm not around it right now), you can physically turn it off. I do both of those.
You said you're using PLA and have hissing: I presume you mean you're using Nylon? In that case yes, I actually baked the nylon filament before print, on the spool, for about an hour in the oven at around 200 deg and that helped resolve the hissing & popping. Plus I store it in a ziplock bag with a bunch of those water-absorbent sacks.
If you have hissing PLA... I've never heard of that. The bulk of what I do is in PLA and have never had that happen. If you put PLA in the oven you'll probably end up with a single giant glob when done ;) But this should print in PLA just fine, however, you won't be able to bend it open.

Excellent model. I just started printing with nylon, so your build info is very helpful. BTW, how do you clean up the stringing?

A lot of trimming with an exacto :S I'd seen some posts talking about options in Slic3r that help reduce the stringing (by completing each shell before moving to the next, so you minimize the the head criss-crossing the print), but I've only started messing with Slic3r (not terribly successfully yet). Makerware doesn't seem to have this option, even if you make a custom profile.