Mega Majora's Mask in High-Definition.
"HD-Mega" Desktop / Wall Edition, with 5mm LEDs
Pre-Alpha release (v0.0.0.1)
These "Thing" instructions are for making your very own nostalgic Majora's Mask, complete with surface finishing, mounting hardware, and cool NeoPixel LED electronics.
WARNING: This is an EARLY pre-alpha release! Please take all instructions with a grain of salt, as I'm releasing this larger model much sooner than I had planned. I have found myself not able to get the instructions/photos/build-process documented to the "polished" level I would have liked (yet) due to work obligations. Due to several requests for the larger "HD-Mega" version, I am releasing these files early so that they do not collect too much dust. My apologies for the rough instructions. I have printed the models, but that's about it... If you wish to print this model in it's early stage, good luck and please post your results. I will try to resume progress on this project in the future. GOOD LUCK!
Custom Mendel 90 w/ E3Dv6 Hotend
0.40mm Nozzle, 0.2mm Layer Height
I have printed several iterations of this mask at full scale to find print settings that work well on my printer (Cutom Mendel-90, single E3D extruder, SmoothieBoard, and Slic3R software). Primarily, I have warping issues with ABS on large prints and also find excessive PLA support material sometimes difficult to remove. These general constraints have led me through iterative design improvements to the model to optimize "troubled" overhang areas, producing a model that prints well with only a minimum amount of PLA support. I recommend that you use my print settings as a starting point, and make any adjustments from there that may be more appropriate for your printer (i.e. if you have dissolvable support material capability, you may wish to be more aggressive with the support). The following settings were essential for me to get good consistant prints of this model:
My recommended Slic3r 1.2.9 config files are available for PLA
for users that use Slic3R and have a 0.4mm nozzle. Just import the
config file into Slic3r, and then re-select your own personal printer
from the "printers" drop down box. The configuration assumes you have
a heated bed (if you don't, just disable that on the filament screen).
- One roll of opaque plastic filament (PLA highly recommended)
- One roll of clear/translucent colorless plastic filament (t-glase highly recommended)
- One roll of support material (if you have a dual extruder machine)
Optional: Print smoothing/finishing compound and consumables
- One Box of Smooth-On XTC-3D Brush On Coating
- One Box of sponge brushes
- One Roll of wax paper
- One Roll of aluminum foil
- One pack of mixing sticks (wooden popcicle sticks)
- One pack of small disposable platic cups
- One soldering Iron
- Your prefered tools for support removal (i.e. small pliers, dental pick, razor blade(s), etc)
PRINT THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
You will need to print the folllowing items in opaque PLA:
- Qty 1, "Mask-v4.stl", Opaque ABS/PLA/etc.
XYZ Print Dimensions:
Printed as is: (223mm,161mm,135mm)
Rotated 45 degrees about Z axis (197mm, 197mm, 135mm)
- Qty 1, "Mask-PinSet-v4.stl", Opaque ABS/PLA/etc.
XYZ Print Dimensions: (16mm,16mm, 8mm)
You will need to print the following items in translucent t-glase or translucent PLA:
RECOMMENDED PRINT SETTINGS:
- brim_width = 0 (not really needed if you are using PLA)
- cooling = 1 (if you have fans, use them for PLA)
- fan_always_on = 1 (I keep mine on always for good measure)
- infill_only_where_needed = 0 (always do full infill, as we are infilling at a very low density anyways)
- layer_height = 0.2 (a layer height of 0.2mm is a good balance between quality and speed. Use your own judgement here)
- raft_layers = 0 (if you are printing on glass; to get the best glued seam leave raft layers off.)
- support_material = 1 (there are a few "problem" areas that need support, so we turn support on)
- support_material_pattern = rectilinear (my personal support pattern preference)
- support_material_spacing = 1 (my personal support material spacing preference)
- support_material_threshold = 14 (we only want support for overhangs of 14 degrees or less in relation to the print bed to support problem ares, and minimizing excessive support generation and extra print time)
- bottom_solid_layers = 3 (bottom layer will be three layer heights thick)
- top_solid_layers = 3 (top layer will be three layer heights thick)
- perimeters = 3 (outer shell will be three extrusion widths thick)
- extra_perimeters = 1 (allow the slicer to add extra outer layers if needed)
- fill_density = 10% (we don't need a lot of internal support)
- fill_pattern = honeycomb (or any infil pattern suitable for very low infil densities)
- external_fill_pattern = rectilinear (top and bottom layers)
Translucent t-glase or translucent PLA:
- To help light travel through the horns, always print at the thickest layer height possible. Generally, this is 80% of whatever your nozzle size is (i.e. if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, print translucent material at 0.32mm layer height)
- perimeters = 1 (we only want our exterior shells one extrusion width wide)
- fill_density = 0% (turn off infill, we are printing hollow objects to help light travel through the printed parts)
** FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURES RECOMMENDATIONS FOR OTHER PRINT SETTINGS (i.e. print speed, etc)
There are four small guide pins to temporarily hold the mask together (Mask-PinSet-v4.STL). These pins should just give you a snug fit, but still allow the mask halves to be easily separated. Depending on the tolerance of your printer; the pins may be too tight to easily insert into the holes. Don't force the pins, as you won't be able to easily separate and re-attach the two halves while applying glue. Scale the four pins down just a bit (95%?), re-print, and retry. It will only take a few minutes to reprint the 4 small pins.
Now that you have good alignment, separate the two halves leaving the guide pins in place in one of the mask halves. Now grab your favorite glue and apply an appropriate amount along the seam. Now firmly press the two mask halves together and clamp until dry.
If you want glowing horns, you will need to print the horns using a clear or translucent material. Cut a piece of Aluminum foil to 6mm x 12mm. Use a small piece of scotch tape to secure the foil to the outer surface of the 6mm long light pipe (bottom/center of the horn). The shiny side should be facing inward.
Next, insert a "large-guide-pin" into the base of the horn. Now press the horn and its guide pin into one of the masks horn sockets. The 54mm horn goes in the bottom socket, followed by 55.8mm horn, and so on until you get to the 62.4mm horn on the top of the mask. (Glue the horns in place only if they are loose). The large guide pins have an outside diameter of 12.6mm and the inside diameter of the horn socket is 12mm. So you should have a tight fit (use pliers if needed to compress the guide clip as you insert it into the horn). If the fit is to tight, sand the guide clip down.
Now grab your 5mm NeoPixel LEDs, insert them into the LED holes from the rear side of the mask, and secure with a drop or two of Super-Glue.
Electronic wiring instructions to follow... You should be able to find plenty of code examples on Google to get the NeoPixel LEDs up and running. Otherwise, hang tight and I'll get a proper write-up posted soon. :-)
Print the two "Desk Stand" parts, and then glue them together. The mask can be quickly removed from the desk stand and replaced, as the mask just rests on three prongs. There are corresponding sockets on the rear side of the mask.