Servo driven nozzle wiper arm for delta printers

by fjohn624, published

Servo driven nozzle wiper arm for delta printers by fjohn624 Aug 6, 2015


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag


Thing Statistics

3183Views 440Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories


I like having a dump area on my 3D printers so they can prime the extruder, wipe the tip on its way to the print surface and immediately start printing without all the extra hairs and globs. Worked great for my modified bukobot but on a delta you can't just have a longer axis to prime it off the table. This was my quick and dirty solution.




You will need to print 2 servo mounts, 1 arm and 1 clamp.

You will also need a standard size hobby servo. I used a Hitec 31311S HS-311 as its pretty universal and around $10 USD. I would recommend using the same one as the arm is made for the servo horn to snap into; I didn't even use glue on mine. If you have a wide selection of servo horns laying around print the arm and see if you have one that fits and then use another servo. Otherwise, hey it's only $10....

You will also need some M3 hardware and T-nuts for mounting it to the extrusions.

Last but probably the most important, you will need a piece of material to use as a wiper. In the video I was using a piece of folded up PET tape. While it works, the better material to use would be a piece of high temperature silicon mat, similar to what is used on nice kitchen spatulas.

After you have it installed you will need to set it all up. I have attached my starting g-code. DO NOT use it as-is. It is just an example and you will have to modify all of the positions and servo angles to fit your printer. Set the height of the Z so that it is higher than the plastic printed arm but lower than the silicon wiper blade.

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

compliments beautiful project, I would like to know where I plug in my servant ramps 1.4 and pin I have to change in pins.h thanks

If you are running a fairly recent (last year or so) version of Marlin firmware then you shouldn't have to change anything in pins.h, however in configuration.h you have to modify the line where it defines the number of servos. It's near the bottom of the file under an area called R/C Servo Support.

On the normal RAMPS 1.4 board there is a set of pins that are dedicated to servo driving.
I think the digital output pin D11 is called out as S0 (servo 0) and then D6 is S1, D5 is S2, D4 is S3.

thank you so much

im trying to use your g-code but it sets all my heaters to 0 and then it never prints

Like I said in the info section, do not use it as-is. It is just an example for my starting g code when I use Cura to slice. I am going to go out on a limb and say that you are using a different slicer engine such as Slic3r. Different slicers pass the variables for heat settings in under different names.

Also there is a section in the middle for running a probe for auto bed leveling. If you don't have one of those then you don't want to run that as it could force your printer into the print bed or if you are lucky wont run at all because your firmware may not be set up at for that.

So do not use it as is, just read the code and try to re-write your starting gcode similarly. Mine is purely there to show the order required to move to locations and then the necessary m and g codes to make it happen. If you need more help I'll try to write some start code for Slic3r but you will still have to determine your own positions to make it work.

The section you want to pay close attention to and use as an example starts with the line "M117 Priming" which just displays the word "Priming" on an lcd screen if your printer has one and is set up to understand that command. Farther down you will see M280 which is what tells the servo to move. P1 tells it to move servo #2 on my printer. P0 is servo #1 which is my auto leveling servo. S160 tells it to move to 160 degrees. That is where mine is most centered on the bed; you may want a different location angle. If you look back at the top you will see that I make it park my servos at the start of a print just to make sure they are out of the way. That is why I include so much start code. The G4 commands are pause commands that allow the servos time to move and the PXXX command is how long to wait in milliseconds.

The Idea is really cool however I have a little OT question.
Is there any chance you could tell where did you get this servo driven auto-level plastics for effector?

Folger Technologies Kossel auto level bed probe arm

Brilliant, I don't have a delta but I am redesigning my printer (ultimaker based idea) and I think I will incorporate this, I hate cleaning up ooze etc from the beginning of prints.