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Printrbot Simple Bowden Conversion

by rsilvers, published

Printrbot Simple Bowden Conversion by rsilvers May 30, 2013
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Summary

The Simple can benefit from having less moving mass.

McMaster parts needed:

52335K32 Metric Extreme-Temperature Tubing Made with PTFE, 2 mm ID, 4 mm OD, 1 mm Wall, Semi-Clear White. $2.45 Per Foot (two or more feet required).

5449K171 Metric Black Acetal Push-to-Connection Tube Fitting, Adapter for 4MM Tube OD X 1/8" BSPT Male Pipe. $2.21 Each (two required).

You should use a 5/8 end-mill or drill to clean the 16mm hole that the hot-end pushes into. Also use a 6-32 tap on the screw holes.

Tap the plastic for the 1/8 inch pipe threads using either a tap or a metal fitting. You may have to use an "R" size drill bit before you tap.

You may want to experiment with chamfering the inside edges of the tubing with a small drill or even a drill of about 2.5mm size / 0.095" to ream the ends of the tube to have less resistance. I recommend ordering at least four feet of tubing so that you can experiment.

Note that the cold-end plate does not have the filament path in the center, so please pay attention to which way you install it.

If you adjust your hobbed-filament drive too tight, it will flatten the filament and then it won't pass smoothly through the tubing.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fODSciCqP74

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This might sound like a stupid question (bear with me I'm a novice), but can this design be implemented for the printrbot simple metal as well? Does a bowden conversion even significantly impact the print speed and quality on a simple metal?

I have the Simple, which only prints PLA... So I assume it's OK to print this in PLA or do I find a buddy to print this in ABS?

If it looks the same it will probably work.

Any reason this wouldn't work on a PB LC V2? Is the mounting plate any different?

Awesome job - going to use this for my next printer.

Would it be possible to tell me the gcode configuration you have for calibration? I am trying to print this, but it is coming out a little ovally, I removed the y axis tube, and plan on removing the x axis tube, recommend this? And what is the best gcode setup? THanks so much, it is greatly appreciated!

You have to calibrate your printer, of course, to print anything well.

My startup gcode is unique to my printer and won't work for yours.

If you are unsure of print speed, just print slowly at 10 mm/sec.

Sorry I keep asking for so much, could you get me links of the things I need (Bolts) from mcmaster? The bolts and nuts? Thanks!

I don't have a computer until Thursday.

Any 6-32 bolts will work. Why not get them at Lowes, Home Depot, or a hardware store? An inch should be long enough. Shorter may work.

Hey Rsilvers, what screws/bolts/washers, ect do I need? Could you post links to everything needed in McMaster? Thanks

You need two 6-32 bolts and nuts, in addition to the ones that are already on the standard extruder. You can use washers but they are not required.

Thank you! This is not relevant, but where did you buy rosin? I saw you used it on another one of your videos. Hows the Y axis keeping up? Have you done that to the x as well?

Mine is from Brownells. I don't think you need it. Amazon sells some.
Yes I did it to X. It wend dozen of hours without slipping. It slipped yesterday but I tried it at 120 mm/sec. Then it got loose as I had no lock washer on the end bolts. But yes, it is the way to go.

Hey Rsilvers, getting ready to do this, printing the parts now. Where do I put the ExtruderSpacer? PLease get back to me on this asap! Thanks

Into the bottom of the wooden extruder where the hot end used to go.

Perfect thank you!

Love it rsilvers! I plan on ordering these parts and building one of these!

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