Update 2: Bigger holes by 40% for screws and countersinks
UPDATE: This is the proper design, the previous version did not have enough depth for the g;ass plate. I have also uploaded the sketchup file so you can adjust the depth of the overhang for printers without glass plates. PLEASE COMMENT, then we know if we are doing the right thing! Thank you
This set of 4 clips are for the 4 corners of the standard Printrbot LC 2 bed. My heated bed has a sheet of 2mm neoprene and some aluminium foil under it for insulation do you will have to amend the stl if you are not using this. The glass is standard 3mm window glass.
If you need them, you can make the countersunks for the screws larger. I have tried to keep the protrusion above the bed as low as possible while still being robust as my printer gets moved around a lot. I suggest you knock 10mm off your x and y bed sizes in your printing software so you dont get a head crash.
I have uploaded the original sketchup file as well as the stl. I printed them 'upright' because of problems with delaminating when flat. adjust as required
The photo of two printed clips was V1, these are V2 and have a better shape plus a tapered top edge to reduce chances of head clashes.
If your thinking why has he screwed down the bed when I have to remove my glass bed and chisel prints off it, thats because I am using the pipe cement detailed below and you just 'patch' the torn off cement after each use.. much easier....
Used a Printrbot LC V2 with a glass bed and plastic pipe adhesive to create a thin dried film on the glass bed to secure the parts*. Printed with a 0.3mm layer height and standard infill settings.
I set the nozzle temperature to 230 and the bed temperature to 90 as this works for me.
Standard 3mm ABS from printrbot.
To get a good grip between the clip and the glass surface, try coating the underneath of the clips where they contact the glass with rubber adhesive from a puncture repair kit
*= Found that applying the pipe adhesive while the bed is heated gives best effect. Three thin coats at right angles to each other with a couple of seconds between for the last coat to dry from the heater and you get a slight weave of thicker 'skin' on the glass which holds really well but is easy to peel off the glass afterwards when you remove the pieces after printing