Raspberry pi PC case and blade center

by scratchhax, published

Raspberry pi PC case and blade center by scratchhax Aug 21, 2015
0 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

8992Views 815Downloads Found in Computer


This is a stackable case for the raspberry pi that allows you to create a blade center type setup or you can mount one of these cases in a standard 5.25 PC mount and have a Pi in your PC. I've included an, untested, rack mount end plate that will allow you to mount this in 4U of space


EDIT:Uploaded an plate that should allow you to mount this into a standard 19 inch rack. I don't have a rack to test this on though, so let me know if it doesn't work out.

This case prints in two pieces, the receiver and the carrier. The carrier holds the pi, the receiver holds all of the cables. The idea is to have the receiver setup with all of your accessories, power and ethernet plugged into it. The carrier can be docked and undocked and holds itself in place using the pi's usb and ethernet ports. Power is supplied via a standard molex PC power supply and a 5.5mm barrel jack from a CCTV setup. You can print multiples of these and attach them top to bottom to create a blade center of sorts. Just use the PC mounting holes and a bit of plastic to join them together. Source 123d files available in my github https://github.com/scratchhax/3DPrinting/tree/master/Blade_Center

parts required:

USB extension cables, at least 6 inches. I use these.

5.5 mm barrel jacks from a CCTV setup. I use these.

Standard RJ45 Keystone jack

Molex 8981 male connector, I cut one off a $1 Molex to SATA power adapter.

More from Computer

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

Dude, this is such a waste of space and plastic!

You could work harder to thin those walls, and fit multiple raspberries in a single unit (or at least more per m3!).

And extending two USB ports?? What??

worked well for my purposes. feel free to adapt it to yours.

Sorry, didn't mean to come off as dissing your design.

Just wondering why this worked best for you. Like, did you ignore plastic cost (it's low enough really, usually not worth optimisation time) and not have additional raspiberries?

no worries at all, the original idea was to get a pi into the 5.25 slot of my computer that could act as an out of band management system for things like powering the server on and off if things go wrong, monitoring temperature, controlling fans, etc. the slot isn't big enough to fit two pis with all of the connections (including hdmi) pulled to the back and a 3.5 slot wasn't available for me. The walls are thick because they need to support screws, be inside a warm computer case (I was still using PLA back then, PETG is less of a concern) and just be strong overall. I didn't end up making more then a few of these and have stopped using them since, but the model is still here in case anyone wants it.

Thanks for the context =D