Checkout the Mk 2: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1071966
Portal gun from Rick and Morty. Made this for a birthday gift...I rushed a lot of it since I had a two week deadline. I used what I had lying around...hence the blue 7 segment display...it's from alternate Rick...my excuse...
I'd upload some pictures of the circuit board...but that would mean partial deconstruction of a gift that I've already given away...I'd feel really guilty...
Video - https://youtu.be/0jZOc7ff73s
Not the best quality...the long ending is to show the auto-off feature (30 long seconds).
1x 4 Digit 7 Segment - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11405
1x Atmega328 - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10524
1x 16 MHz Resonator - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9420
1x 28 Pin Dip Socket - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/7942
4x 1K Ohm Resistor (For Pull-Ups and Current Limiting) - Where ever...
5x 330 Ohm Resistor (For 7 Segment Display and Speaker) - Where ever...
2x 1N4001 Diode (I used Schottkeys...my bag of 1000x 1N4001 is hiding from me...) - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8589
1x 2n3904 NPN Transistor - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/521
1x Radioshack 275-0240 Relay (Only small relay I had...) - http://www.radioshack.com/5vdc-1a-spdt-micro-relay/2750240.html
1x 5V Boost Regulator - http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-PFM-Control-DC-DC-USB-0-9V-5V-to-5V-dc-Boost-Step-up-Power-Supply-Module-/400520469462
1x 3 AAA Holder - http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-3-AAA-Size-Battery-Dry-Cell-Holder-Box-DC-Case-bc3aaa-/180382798706
1x 8 Ohm Speaker - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10722
1x Rotary Encoder - http://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-Rotary-Encoder-Push-Button-Switch-Keyswitch-Electronic-Components-Effective-/231410073065
1x Rotary Encoder Knob - Couldn't source, print one?
3x AAA - Where ever...
4x WS2812 LEDs (one for top and 3 for front) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/WS2811-WS2812-5050-RGB-LED-strip-Light-Waterproof-Individually-Addressable-DC5V-/111164910188
1x T10 Bulb - https://www.google.com/shopping/product/16565885857852949835
Note that all these components are really generic...feel free to swap parts in where you can (Sparkfun is more expensive than Mouser, Digikey, Ebay, or the dumpster). Most of my parts came from stuff I got out of the dumpster... One thing that came in handy where a bunch of 0.1 spaced JST connectors that I got out of an old CD player. I'd like to make a much smaller board. The resistor used for the speaker can be swapped out for a lower value to make it louder. Be careful not to draw more than 20mA (recommended continuous current draw) from a pin. I tested my speaker without a resistor...highest current pulled was ~18mA (guessing this is because the sound is not continuous).
I highly recommend using connectors between the 7 segment, rotary encoder, front panel lights, and the crystal light to the main board. I used some JST connectors I found in an old cd play (from the dump). I used an 8 pin (only using 7 of the pins for the 7 segment), two 5 pins (using 4 pins for the 7 segment from one and all pins for the rotary encoder), a 3 pin (LED), and two 2 pins (one for the battery and one for the speaker). I can't seem to source the ones I used, their wires are in a different order that standard JST connectors (not that this really matters).
WARNING!!! BE CAREFUL WITH WIRE ORDER, I WAS GOING FOR A SINGLE SIDED BOARD, SO THERE ARE MANY NON-SYMMETRIC PINOUTS!!!
- Print out stls.
- Mill or order PCBs files.
- Populate PCBs. I used JST connectors for everything. Using connectors makes life a ton easier when assembling this thing. I used schottky diodes in the "main.brd" file because that's all I had on hand.
- Upload firmware and test all the electronics together BEFORE assembly.
- Glue handle sides together (I used superglue).
- Insert the "knob" board into the handle slot.
- Glue handle to the body (I used superglue).
- Cover the rotary encoder with tape.
- Sand...fill in gaps with filler (I used Elmers Wood Filler)...sand...primer...repeat...
- Paint body.
- Put in "led" board.
- Find a cylinder like lightbulb.
- Cut it in half with a dremel.
- Tape the sharp edges.
- Create a "crystal" over one of the WS2812 leds with hot glue.
- Hot glue "crystal" inside the lightbulb.
- Fill lightbulb with a clear resin.
- Insert lightbulb to assembly.
- Cut and drill a front cover from plastic (I used a mill and the Eagle file named plate.brd).
- Paint front plate if necessary.
- Glue WS2812 LEDs to the front plate.
- Attach front plate to assembly (I ended up drilling the holes manually rather than using my mill since I had self tapping screws).