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Improved One-piece Capo

by LoboCNC, published

Improved One-piece Capo by LoboCNC Aug 28, 2015

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Summary

More stylish! More functional! More printable! This is an improved version of my earlier guitar capo (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:698317) that includes a number of improvements:

  • Rubber in the presser bar frets the strings with no buzzing and with less force. (I've also included a version that does not require the rubber piece.)
  • Re-contoured spring section distributes the strain more evenly to prevent breaking.
  • More predictable slicing with specific slicing parameters.
  • Positive stop at the handle prevents accidental breakage.
  • I've added a wide version better for fatter-necked acoustic guitars

If you Liked my original capo, Like this one even more!

Instructions

Update: I've added versions that don't need the rubber o-ring piece (use the *_no_oring.stl versions of the files), although the versions with the o-rings work more reliably.

Update: I've added a wide version (icapo_wide.stl) which works better for fatter-necked acoustic guitars. Use the standard version (icapo.stl) for electric or thinner-necked acoustic guitars

Follow these instructions exactly for the best results:
Material: PLA
Layer thickness: 0.2mm
No. shells/perimeters: 5
Perimeter line thickness: 0.45mm (exactly)
Infill (rectilinear): 35%

This prints with a build-in channel for an o-ring bumper. The channel has a thin, integral support which peels away easily after printing. You will also need a ~2" length of 3/16" thick o-ring that can either be cut from standard o-ring (http://www.amazon.com/O-Ring-330-BN65-Nitrile-Pack/dp/B000RAI6K4) or can be cut from o-ring cord. Cut a section of o-ring 2.05" long and press into the channel on the presser bar. It's also a good idea to put a small piece of electrical tape or felt on the bottom side of the clamp to protect your guitar neck.

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The No O'ring is great! Just tried it on my accoustic, no buzzing whatsoever.

Popped on the electric Les Paul, again, perfect. Thanks my friend!

You're welcome! Glad it works well for you.

I printed your old version before I found this one. It would be easier to find if you were to list this one as a remix of the first one.

I printed the no o-ring version, perfect fit, works great on my guitar. Feels pretty solid/sturdy with the recommended settings, too. Props!

Hi i have printed both the no o-ring and the wide no o-ring and neither of them seem to be able to put enough pressure on the strings to play this may just be with my guitar though.

This is an absolutely beautiful capo, and quite functional too!

Hey, thanks!

what size would be most appropriate for a fender mustang/jaguar neck? I wanna get my "under the bridge" on ;)

also what infill settings should i use so it can flex properly when printed in PLA ?

You should use the standard version for an electric guitar. Unfortunately, a thingiverse bug has temporarily hidden all of my instructions. Print in PLA, use 5 perimeters and 35% infill.

What do you recommend for the rubber part that presses on the strings? I see people using different rubber... cylinders, but I'm not sure where they're getting them?

The original instructions I posted suggest using a piece 3/16" thick O-ring (available at most hardware stores). Unfortunately,
it seems that Thingiverse has deleted all of the post-printing/assembly instructions for all my things posted before September 2016.

Also note that there is a version of this improved capo without the rubber - just printed PLA for the presser bar.

Yeah, I printed the non-wide, non-rubber version, but I finished at like 2AM so I wasn't able to test it out on my martin. I plan on printing at least one more so maybe I'll print the o-ring version and give it a shot!

What do you recommend to affix the ring? I'm not sure what would adhere rubber to PLA.

Once you peel away the small support strip, the O-ring section press-fits into the groove nicely without any adhesive. If you do want to glue it in place, cyanoacrylate (superglues) works well on most rubbers.

I did wide version of this Capo and it works great. PLA works great, but if anyone has problem with breaking, try ABS, it is more flexible. I will add thin rubber on surfaces and it will be prefect. Thank you for nice design.

I made the previous one, and it broke, but would like to try again with your exact instructions.
Only, I don't understand how the perimeter line thickness can be 0.45mm if you are making 5 shells? That comes out to 0.09mm/shell- do you set the extrusion width to less than half of the layer height?

I think this is a terminology problem. By perimeter line thickness, I mean the same thing as the extrusion width. (Different slicers use different terminology.) An extrusion width of 0.45mm, times 5 shells equals a total shell thickness of 2.25mm. This will ensure that that the spring section of the capo is printed solid with no gaps or infill.

Awesome designs, and it looks great too! I keep getting buzz on one of the strings, either the high e or the low E. I found an o-ring in my house and tried using that I think it's a little thinner than what I'm supposed to use, so maybe that's what is causing my problem. Anyway to fix this/ add more force?

What type of guitar are you using this on? It might not work well on electric guitars which have both thin necks and more highly curved fretboards. (The capo is for a nominal 14" fretbaord radius.) Also, are you using PLA (ABS is too flexible) and enough perimeters (typically 5) to get a solid infill on the spring section?

I was using it on my strat, so that was probably the problem. I might try it with my other guitar tomorrow. I did print it with PLA and I'm pretty sure I followed all the instructions that were provided.

awesome work man would it be possible for a blank version? So we could add our own letters like name of band ans so forth....? Thanks man!

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