Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!
Modified InMoov head
by monnerby, published
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Summary
First of all I want to say thanks Gael Langevin who is the creator of the InMoov 3D-printed robot that I'm building.
You can find the original design on his site http://www.inmoov.fr.
This post is the first one in a series of changes that I have made to the head of the robot.
This post shows the parts that have been redesigned to make room for more electronics in the head. The outside is still the same as the original InMoov head. It's only the inside that has changed. Use the original InMoov head parts for everything that isn't in this post.
I use a smaller servo to turn the head than the original one.
The cogwheels have been removed and the jaw has been redesigned so that the jaw servo could be relocated.
The electronics I have in the head now is 2 standard size servos for the head turn and jaw, 3 smaller servos for the eyes,
a Raspberry PI 2 with a PI camera, an Arduino Uno, a USB sound card, an amplifier, a speaker and a USB transmitter for the keyboard and mouse.
On some of the pictures I have removed the connecting cables to make it easier to see how it's built.
On the pictures you can also see that I use a modified neck and a headstand. The eye's and the eye mechanism is also a new design.
Since this is work in progress and not all parts have been tested, I will publish them when they work.
Update 20150930. The jaws moved to slow, so I changed the threads to increase the speed. Use JawPistonV2.
Part 2 is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:994720
Update 20151206. I added HeadStandNeckHolder to this post. It's not necessary if you build the whole robot, but it can be used to hold the head on a stand without printing any of the rods. It's the part that sits under NeckJointUpper and is holding the head using cable straps, It can be seen in sevral of the pictures.
Updat 20160126. Added a few more pictures to show how things are mounted.
Update 20161030. If you don't like that the cables run outside the neck, this remix that dix23 made works very well, and is the part that I use now: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1581955
Instructions
Print one piece of each and one extra JawSupportV2.
To rebuild the neck to be able to mount a standard size servo use
NeckRedesignV5, LowBackRightV3 and LowBackLeftV3.
The NeckRedesignV5 is the part that all other pieces are mounted to.
The LowBackRightV3 needs and LowBackLeftV3 needs support structures. A good slicer can provide that. The large flat pieces are there to avoid making support structures.
To rebuild the Jaw, use parts JawV6, two JawSupportV2, JawHingeV3 and JawPistonV1. As you can see on the pictures the JawHingeV3s' are mounted under the NeckRedesignV5. The original has the jawhinges on the top.
The last piece SkullTopV5 is to hold the top of the skull togethers, since the original part is integrated with the big servoholder.
The NeckJointUpperV1 needs to be printed upside down, with support. The slicer I use has an option to only make support only under parts that are not touching the printbed. The purpose of the disc is to prevent building support structure in the middle.
The NeckJointUpperV1 fits with Neck_Joint_Lower_in_Millimeter the was created by RentaPrinter. You can find it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:861146/#files
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All the originla parts for the InMoov build can be found here: http://inmoov.fr/inmoov-stl-parts-viewer/
Try this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2335838
WHY THE SCREW INDICATED WITH THE ARROW IS NOT CENTERED? MY INMOOV DOES NOT COMPLETELY CLOSE THE MOUTH
Hi. This was one of the first design modifications I made. So I was a total beginner in 3D modelling. The servo can't move back and forth. So the jaw may stick. The way I solved this problem was by filing the holes a little largerso that the bar can move back and forth. The holes that the arrow in your picture is pointing at.
Hello
I would like to know where to find the .stl file of the inmoov skull used by you here
if you can help me
All the parts for a complete InMoov build, incuding the head can be found here: http://inmoov.fr/inmoov-stl-parts-viewer/
Hi monnerby, thanks fr posting alll your great mods;
I am currently building the InMoov Robot (starting with the head). I am incorporating your modifications along with those from dix238 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1581955) and richardtracy (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2335838). I think the combination makes a very good integration of features.
I would like to make a couple of modifications myself and was wondering if you would mind sharing your CAD Model for the NeckredesignV5.stl? I would like to move things around a little and see if I can make room for the eye mechanism from Gael Langevin's InMoov sight. Working from the .stl file is a pain and was hoping to not start from scratch. Your neck would be a great starting place.
I don't have a CAD model of it. I imported the stl files to Blender and worked from there.
Thanks for the reply!
That seems to be rather common. I guess I need to learn how to use Meshmixer better. The only thing I have really used it for is to repair .stl files with mesh problems. Never really considered it as much of an editor. I kind of like having a model so that I have a little more control of things. Only problem is re-creating some of these complex shapes can be a bit time consuming and troublesome.
The lower head part is the original part. But you need to use it together with the eye part, since the eye part has the necessary holes to mount it to the part that holds the jaw servo. You can see it on the picture here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1035688
Great design! I am assembling and the lower face piece doesn't seem to match up with the platform that the jaw servo attaches to. Are you using the standard lower face?
Has anyone tried using the Gael Langevin's new eye mechanism (inspired by Mats Onner) with this mod? I found the motors get in the way of the main bracket (NeckRedsignv4.stl), the jaw motor and the rpi/audrino mount. I might have to redesign this completely because I'd really like Gael Langevin's new design because the motors are directly attached to the eye bracket and I also want to use the raspberry pi with camera.
Gaels eye design will not fit this mod. So if you want to use his eye design, you need to redesign some of the parts. I think it's possible to make a bracket that will fit, but the problem will come when you try to connect something to the USB ports.
question so do I have to completely reprint the internals of the head just to be able to use the standard servos for the neck and jaw? or can I get away with only a couple of reprints to be able to use the standard servo? I have no interest in installing the pie or Arduino in the head.
If you don't want to use the space for anything, then it's easier to just print a servo adapter for the large servo. Something like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:617401
I am new to inMoov but I started to print your modifications over the original designs.
I haven't delved into the BOMs yet and so my question may be obsolete.
What types of servos did you replace compared to the original servos?
Which should I buy when printing your modifications?
I use standard size servos that I already had from an old project. Futaba S-148 and Futaba S3003. For the jaw it's not critical, but I will replace the neck servo with a digital servo. The reason is that a digtal servo positions better than an analog servo, so it can turn the head with better precision.
Thank you very much!
What do you mean by "standard size" servos?
Standard size in terms of the "standard" servos used in the original InMoov? Might you be able to list all the servos that you used in your InMoov head and which function they control? That would be sweet!
OK
For the neck, i.e.to turn the head left and right I use Futaba S-148, but I will change it to a digital servo of the same size.
For the jaw, i.e. to open and close the mouth I use Futaba S3003, Both servos are the same size and they are what I refer to as "standard" size servos.
Then I use three micro/mini 9g servos to move the eyes. I use one to turn the eyes up and down, and one for each eye to turn left and right. I'm not at home now, so I don't know their exact name, but I can give you an update when I get home in a few days.
Thank you! This helps a lot.
I have some micro 9g servos here, too. I think 9g is the universal description for these specifically dimensioned servos.
Any progress on updated upper neck partV1 alternative that will fit http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1243403
Hi
It's available now.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1437905
I created the part this weekend. But I need to make some modifications to it to decrease the need for support structures. And I also want to print it once to be able to upload a picture. Please be patient. It will be available soon. My goal is to make the changes this evening and print during the night. If it prints OK, I will publish it tomorrow evening / night.
Hi,
How can you put the neck in the NeckJointUpperV1 ? cause the original neck do not fit into
Thanks,
olivier
The NeckJointUpperV1 fits with Neck_Joint_Lower_in_Millimeter the was created by RentaPrinter. You can find it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:861146/#file
But I'm working on an alternative for that part, that will fit http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1243403
Do you want an alternative that fits the original neck, so that you don't have to use any of the Articulating neck modifications ?
It's available now.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1437905
Hi Scott.
Thanks for the comments.
The jaw design now works fine. I was thinking about changing it the way you describe it, but sinced it worked this way I never did.
Moving the neck servos to the head would leave very little room for the Raspberry PI and all the other things I put in the head. Still a nice design, because it balances around the center of gravity of the head. If I were to redesign it again, I would try to move the neck forward to get better balance.
There is a nice animation of the original head design here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMeiSKzO2p8
I use the same software as Gael, just installed it in the Raspberry PI in the head instead of using a large PC outside.
The software is called MyRobotLab and can be found here: http://myrobotlab.org/
I was inspired by other animatronic eye designs, but some of them did not leave enough room for the camera.
Hi Monnerby,
Nice job on this redesign. I have built a lot of animatronics and was also going to try to re-work the head a little, but I think you've got something interesting going on here. Nice job.
I'm not sure how far along you are with this, but I've got a couple o f things for you to think about.
I noticed that you said you were having trouble with the jaw servo being too slow. Two things. first, the closer you get to the pivot point, the less movement a servo will need to make to have it open and close. And second, you can eliminate the worm gear altogether if you just turn the servo on it's side and link it directly to the jaw. This is the way most jaws are set up in animatronics applications. Direct. Again, the closer you get to the pivot point, the faster the jaw moves. the only thing you need in a direct environment is enough room for the servo horn to move...easily the same or less space than what is needed for a worm gear.
And lastly, I really think that all of the servos for a 3-axis head can go into the head itself rather than extend down to the torso. I have a YouTube channel called "Graveyard Workshop" and there are some instruction videos on how to make a 3-axis skull for Halloween animations. Go to the end of the part 2 of "How o build a 3-axis skull" video to see how it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP5xYj3__EY All of the servos are on a single plate in the skull. You can see some of the animation sequences elsewhere on my channel to see how well the heads move. I have a very compact 2-axis eye design, too, but did not do a video of it.
As I said, I had planned to tinker with this a bit, but I am completing a stock, Gael version of the head first so I can understand exactly how the head and related software are supposed to work.
I hope this is helpful!
Thanks,
Scott
Hey, is there any way to include the steps on assembling the head? With the perspective provided it is difficult to tell where all of the pieces go. If you could include a more step by step assembly guide, It would be fantastic.
Otherwise, thank you for giving the community a way to include more in the head without sacrificing capability. For the scope of my build this is very helpful.
Hi. I added a few more pictures to show how things are mounted. They are at the end, after the STL files. Start with printing the large NeckRedesignV5. Most of the parts attach to that piece.
I will try to make some more pictures to make the assembly easier. But I will not be able to do that until earliest 24 January.
Hi there!
Thanks for the great design. I just finished printing your NeckJointUpper V1 and Neck_Joint_Lower_in_Millimeter from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:861146/#files
The lower/ball, part would not fit into the socket/upper at all. I ended up forcing it to see if it was just a matter of adequate pressure and the ball eventually cracked and imploded when I finally forced it enough.
Any idea why these are not fitting together? Did one of the two models change? Is there a trick to putting them together?
Thanks!
Hi
It should be a tight fit but not crack. Try to scale the ball down 1% or more. If you print in PLA, then you could use a heat gun to make the plastic a litte soft. Take some measurments on the parts you have, to find out how much it needs to scaled.
Thanks a lot for the quick response.
I tried printing both files again this morning to make sure that I had not changed some slicer settings last night that had impacted the models, but the fit was still impossible the second time around.
I didn't mention my setup before. I am printing on a Taz5, in ABS with a .35mm nozzle and 3mm filament - using the vanilla "normal" slicing profile in AstroPrint.
Regarding heating the plastic to make the fit. The partially broken ball did actually pop into the socket in my first experiment - but once in was impossible to rotate due to the pressure/friction of the fit (even though 1/4 of the ball was broken and removed). To me this means that while heating up the socket would help get the ball in, it would likely not fix the fit enough that I would get rotation.
I will try scaling down the ball. I am very curious why this would be working for others and not for me. Can you think of any settings I should check? Have you printed and tested - the current versions of the two specific models in question?
Thanks again!
I know that my printer always print parts a little to oversize. So I also had to scale the ball down a little bit. I don't know if other poeple also had to do that. I used the current versions of the stl files when I built the head.
Okay. Good to know that I'm not alone anyway. Has the oversized printing caused issues in any other Inmoov parts that you can think of off-hand? I'm just getting started on my build, so I can potentially still avoid some wasted prints with this knowledge.
Cheers
Yes. I always scale 1% up to make sure that there is room for the servos. And I always scale down 1% on screws and cogwheels. It could be that PLA shrinks different that ABS, so that it's not needed. You should test to print a part that holds a servo, so that you know if you need to scale parts. The finger starter is a good start, since you can check with both a servo and an Arduino to see if it fits.
Really interesting. Thanks a lot for taking time to explain this - it's the first time I've seen it mentioned in around the various Inmoov forums and comments. I will definitely do some experimentation.
I did try reducing the ball by 2% a couple hours ago. It fits better, but is still too tight for a servo to move I think. Some sanding and lubricant might do the trick, but I'm testing at -4% now as well to see if that get's me to a better starting point.
Cheers
Yes. I have uploaded it to this page. The name is HeadStandNeckHolder.stl.
I used standard size servos that I already had from an old project. Futaba S-148 and Futaba S3003. For the jaw it is OK, but I will replace the neck servo with a digital servo. The reason is that a digtal servo positions better than an analog. I used a 50 cm threaded M2 rod and cut it to length. I don't remember the exact length.
What servos did you use? Can you post manufacturers and models here? Also, what is the length of the M2 rod that connects to the balljoints? Tks!
I used standard size servos that I already had from an old project. Futaba S-148 and Futaba S3003. For the jaw it is OK, but I will replace the neck servo with a digital servo. The reason is that a digtal servo positions better than an analog. I used a 50 cm threaded M2 rod and cut it to length. I don't remember the exact length.
I have uploaded it now. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1162624.
Hi. I quote oldfarmhand who has built both the original and this head . "You get more room in the head due to smaller servos, smoother eye movement,smoother mouth movement, more room to put speakers and microphones, less parts in the neck due to no gears, overall just a lot more room to add other items". It's also cheaper to build, because of the smaller servo that is used. The original design doesn't have any computer in the head. The original design uses an external PC. There is a video of the original design here so that you can compare. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMeiSKzO2p8
So the RPI2 replaces the need for an external PC? I'm sold!
Yes. It replaces the external PC. My plan is to use one in RPi the head and one in the body. They will communicate over wifi, And MRL ( http://www.myrobotlab.org ) can be installed on the Rpi. And one of the new nice things with the MRL version currently beeing developed is that it has a web gui. So I can connect to it from a PC, a phone or a tablet. And for development I connect to it using "remote desktop".
Nice work here! What's the benefit of modifying the head? I'm working on an InMoov now, and I'm trying to decide to go your route. Does the original design use the RPi2?
No, they work fine. But I never used the large scale servo, so I don't have anything to compare with. I have a feeling that the friction is lower without the cogwheels, so that less force is needed to turn the head. But if I would change anything, I would replace the neck servo with a digital one, They lock into position better than analogue. Oldfarmhand has built a new head for his robot based on this design and he wrote that the head movement is smoother after this change. You can find his comment on http://inmoov.fr/activity/ Look at the Community page.
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